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mws

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Everything posted by mws

  1. As I mentioned in off topic, I swapped v10 engines in my sooperdoodie. For those who have not seen one of these, I think the 3.0 from our pathies would fit in the valley under the intake manifold. This sucker is f'ing IMMENSE. Bigger than any big block I've played with. I really should take pictures of the old block next to the 3.0 block I have. David and Goliath.... Anyways, it is equally heavy. All tools and equipment stressed to the max.... And I, well, I came out completely unscathed. Can't explain it.... A couple bruises and barked knuckles, but nothing requiring stitches, transfusions, setting, CAT scans, or rectal probes. Total freak event! My wife remains in disbelief. Although I did lay my arm on the propane radiant heater and burned the crap out of it.... At least the scar looks something like a sailboat....
  2. Poor taste? Nahhh.... They clearly don't care what we think if they do it in such a conspicuous way. There is a spectacular cliff off the side of a busy 4 lane road here. I call it losers leap. Several launches a year off of it. The sad part is there are houses down there! So far they've missed but still... mighty inconsiderate of 'em
  3. Unfortunately, I never received the magnet to test, so no results to publish.
  4. There are some quite small species of deer - especially in Europe. Notice the plates?
  5. Correct, green sticker, no plate. I was trying to get my buddy in Oregon to get it plated, but it was more effort than he wanted to invest. Getting it plated in CA is quite difficult (unless you have an in at the DMV), but if you can get it plated in another state you can bring it in and get a CA plate with minimal effort.
  6. Once hooked, you're hooked for life. Accept it. Including close friends and my nephew's clan and I've ridden/repaired/rebuilt: Honda: XR80, XR100, XR200, XR350, CRF150,CRF250F,CRF450, multiple XR400's, CR500, XR600 Kawi: KDX-200 KTM: 450EXC, 525 SX, 525MXC Suzook: DR350 Of those I strongly suggest staying away from the Honda CRF's and any 2 stroke (CR, KX, RM, YZ). They rip and are great for experienced riders and racers, but they are high strung and have proven to be very maintenance intensive and relatively fragile. The boys loved them, but my god we spent a lot of time wrenching on them.... They are now on KTM's and have NO desire to go back. For your size and desire to ride in the desert, the two bikes I HIGHLY recommend are the KTM 450/525 and the Honda XR400. But the KTM's are in such high demand the prices remain pretty high for good ones. So dollar for dollar, its XR4 all the way! They are battle axes. Change the oil every few rides and go. Just go. And go. Need about 1/10 the maintenance of the others while still providing decent power. They used to be more expensive, but now that KTM is starting to be able to fill the market with enough bikes, the demand is dropping making them a heck of a bargain. Not light, and don't have the "magic button" (electric start), but I dare you to find some one who didn't love theirs! Check them out thoroughly before buying anything else. As fate would have it, I am going to Oregon to buy mine back again next week... I loan it/sell it to lots of friends that want to get into the sport. If you can't find one locally, I would be willing to make you a rippin' deal (since you're a long term good NPORA guy) - IF and ONLY IF you promise to take care of her and give me first dibs if and when you are ready to sell her. I could set you up with some "starter" gear as well. Size 11 boots, size large helmet, pants, gloves.
  7. Probably! Like several of us have mentioned, this is definitely NOT something unique to pathies. Pretty much all vehicles have ventilation systems, and the vast majority use resistor packs to provide multiple speeds.
  8. Oh, and to answer the original question. Yes, exhaust leaks, when significant enough, will upset readings. Although after the Y is best if the system uses a single sensor, in your case, sampling from only one bank should be "less bad" than sampling where you know it is iffy. I would try it! And the further upstream you go, the faster it will get up to temp. That is always good as it lets the FI go into closed loop mode asap.
  9. Air flow differences because of differences in port lengths and geometry. It's impossible to get them identical. The longer the port, the more fuel settles out/condenses from atomized state to to tiny droplets - which do not burn as quickly or completely. Every turn or bump in a port also leads to velocity/pressure variations as well. All contribute to less atomization. The differences in combustion efficiency from cylinder to cylinder in a carb'd or TBI's engine are shockingly big. That is why engineers have been striving to get the injectors closer and closer to the back of the valves. Ideally, we would want them injecting directly into the combustion chamber.
  10. Congratulations to all! First off, don't worry about what you will need to do and when. It will be clear when you are needed. Think back on all those in your past that provided guidance, stability, confidence, respect, honesty, or support when you needed it. Then mimic them. Pay back all you've received - and then a little bit more. It's pretty simple. Just love them unconditionally, and be there for them.
  11. Fun! But sorry, "hideously ugly" is completely irrelevant when it comes to physics and/or engineering.
  12. I'd try the Seafoam first. Follow instructions on can. ATF is effectively a 7.5 wt hydraulic oil, so not sure why it would work so well, but I have heard many sing praises so it may be worth trying as well.
  13. Umm, that'd be me, Aaron. The key point I always stress MEASURING the diameter first. I tried a set and really liked the results! A bit more than an inch of lift and EXCELLENT ride quality - only a bit stiffer than stock. Those combined with my AirLift bags is one heck of a sweet set up. Just enough lift, great ride, and then add a squirt of air and I can carry really heavy loads.
  14. Whoa, dude.... consider that your first warning... One warning is not enough to react, but pay attention.
  15. '89? What you see going into the cat is probably the air tube. The O2 sensor should be a few inches before the cat, with wires running to it.
  16. Your symptoms are indicating an ignition problem. The injectors are firing, hence the gas smell. The running rough afterwords would be due to some of the plugs being wet from the flooding. Definitely check the ignition switch.
  17. You did read this thread, right? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18&st=0 Cheapest will always be the u-pull salvage yards.... Based on all of the experiments I've done, seen, and heard about, I think the.52" diameter coils from the front of a relatively stripped Grand Cherokee with the inline 6 will fit you well. Bring your calipers because Jeep used a LOT of different coils! The .54" will give you over an inch of lift (closer to 2", depending on how sagged they are) yet still give a close to stock ride.
  18. I think they are referring to the main water temperature sensor. Not the one for the temp gage/idiot light, but the one for the ECU to know engine coolant temp. And I have a glimmer of memory that it is under the intake manifold. Still, that should be a 4 hour job
  19. Here's my go to for the absolute MINIMUM wire size for continuous loads. These are based on keeping wires from getting dangerously hot. http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/wp-...td_975_wire.htm Make sure you note the "derating" schedule at the bottom. Most folks do not use teflon jacket, so you need to adjust the parameters. And for most applications, I then bump up a gage or two (numerically lower) to minimize voltage drop. But I like to start with the absolute minimum and go from there.
  20. http://order.waytekwire.com/cgi-bin/lansaw...WEBID(S0020):01 Waytek wire. I have been dealing with them for years, and have only the very, very best to say about them. Great source for terminals, zip ties, relays, fuse blocks, wire, heatshrink, wire clamps, battery terminals, hose clamps, and the like. They are a distributor for small manufacturers (like trailer builders and the like), but are also willing to deal with non-manufacturers as well. They sell in "smallish" bulk quantities and do have a minimum of about $5 per line item, so you usually end up buying 100 pieces or more of individual size electrical connectors. I do lots of vehicle wiring, so I can use the high volumes. Not exactly ideal for the individual, but if you have a place to store all the excess, it is a great deal! You can get 100 pieces for the same price you would pay for 5 or 10 locally. For instance, fuses. I just bought 100 (yes, 100) 10 amp standard fuses for $7.38. That is 7 cents apiece.... I will probably never have to buy any again fior the rest of my life! HEY, B! Zip tie prices are awesome as well. I like the Hellerman/Tyton brand, and I dare you to find them cheaper! $1.50 for 100 of the little 4" guys? Beat it! I dare ya! What I have been doing is getting the parts I absolutely need, and then buy a few more sizes and other parts. After a couple $100 orders, I have a HUGE inventory of electrical connectors in just about every size I could ever need.
  21. I'm with B. In Ohio, you may be able to find a complete vehicle with a salt rotted out chassis and a blown engine for free or next to nothing.... but a known good tranny outside of a vehicle usually commands a higher price.
  22. mws

    4x4 Campers

    Ahh.... if only my money tree would fruit out this year.... http://www.autohomeus.com/rooftop/
  23. Thank you all, and especially the extra special offer from Kit. The ride did me very well! Several hours of un-interrupted thought usually does it. I was also visiting some wise friends that helped. I still think the meth-heads are stupid and inexcusably mega-selfish, but I am closer to accepting them for what they are. The sad reality is that it is almost inevitable that each and every one of us are going to be touched by this. Once initiated, meth is a lifetime problem, and it continues to spread.
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