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CDN_S4 build thread


CDN_S4
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If anyone thinks about buying the camber bolt "kit" know that by "kit" they mean single bolt! I don't know how on earth they consider this a kit if it doesn't t least include one for each side.

 

I put the one in on the side that looked very toed in. These camber bolts are pretty sweet. Was almost able to starighten the wheel out while it was hanging freely. Now with all 4 wheels back on the ground and after a rip around the block, now all wheels appear straight to the naked eye. I will wait with the alignment until I'm done messing with it. Paid for 2 alignments within the last 3 months and each time I end up changing something and throwing it all off again.

 

Krypton so far as not been as supportive as I was hoping. I wanted just the spacers and steering rod extension but they insist I buy the strut spacers too. To me that makes no sense as I won't use them! I didn't spend all this money on springs and not use them. Shipping on those springs is what's killing me. $80 and then 70-90 in brokers fees and HST. That's more than the actual springs themselves. Such a rip off. Open that freakin border to trade!

 

Bumper is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Pretty exciting. Still need to go buy a winch though.

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No I meant shipping for my OME springs. Only place I found that carried them was Rocky Road in the states. Which is why I don't want to not use them. I just want the spacers to drop the subframe and re-align my CVs to a decent near flat angle.

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Sprayed rear bumper black as tomorrow my winch bumper (black) will be mounted. If all goes well that is...

 

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It will look a lot better once it is as dirty as the rest of the truck.

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Lucky you. Unless cars are meticulously under coated as soon as they leave the show room and redone every year, there is no way for an undercarriage not to look like mine. Especially on a 16 year old car that has been out for 16 long winters, lots of rain and dirt and gravel and mud. But all in all, it is mostly surface. When I swapped out the control arms, the bolts that came out still looked brand new except for the head and the tip of the bolt which were corroded. But the nuts still came off no problem.

Took the grinder to other parts too to remove rust and it's all just surface for the most part. I would love to get it sand blasted and complete exposed, then repainted and under coated. But I don't have the funds for that as it would require some substantial stripping of parts, and wires. A can of worms I don't want to open lol. I have faith in ol Rusty.

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Mines almost 20 years old. And mine doesn't have alot of rust due to where it's lived. It was a cali car for a while where it doesn't snow. Then lived in Washington where we don't salt. So yeah, very light rust. That being said, I don't still find a stuck bolt or two every now and again.

 

 

-Kyle

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Ok my suspension has a mysterious life of its own. Or my control arms were REALLY bad before as now my PF sits level.

 

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Did you do the final tightening when the truck was still in the air? I believe you're supposed to just snug the bolts and then torque them when it's sitting on the ground again. This is true for the WD21, not sure about the r50.

 

As for rust, there is nothing you can do except for rust proofing. I oil mine yearly but it still has spots all over the place...Just keep grinding and painting lol.

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Hmm...I don't recall now when I tightened them. Looks like the driver side is sitting lower than the passenger. Makes me think I might have done one in the air and one on the ground. Good thinking!

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It's a miracle!

 

But, to adamzan's point, did you use OE rubber bushings or poly? If you did poly, and you greased them up right, then you can torque them while still in the air. If you did OE rubber, then adamzan is right...gotta torque them on the ground and normal load.

 

However, I'm not sure it would've had the effect you experienced...if you torqued them while in the air, the preload on the bushings would've helped lift it, not cause it to sag.

 

 

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They are rubber. Dorman OE replacement arms from auto parts warehouse. I do believe I might have tightened them while in the air. I'll have to jack it back up, listen, lower it down and tighten again and see if that makes a difference.

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Tried mounted the bumper tonight. The stock bumper brackets are super thin sheet metal. I'm gonna have to fabricate a completely new frame for the bumper brackets to bolt onto. A mounting frame that actually connects to the frame of the vehicle at the location of the tow hooks. Hard to describe but it will make more sense once you see it.

 

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Didn't take a lot of pics of the "R&D" process. But needless to say this isn't as easy as theexbrit made it seem. Unless you want to risk mounting a 200lbs bumper onto paper thin sheet metal and winch with that. For this to be done right it will take a lot of steel! MTF

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