01silvapathy Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Okay so based off of a few requests an such for pictures i figured id go ahead and make a thread about my lift install. So here goes,I know my kit is not the same as others but the blocks and how to take off the subframe and steps I took should all be the same. I am missing a few pics and will try to get them updated and such once its light out again to take pics. How she entered the shop Removed Wheels and tires and placed 10 ton jack stands on the frame rails right under the door jam....removed the struts Pile of parts removed, disreguard the cv axle I replaced one while I was at it. But the easiest way to do the lift is to LEAVE the CV attached to the diff Strut removed and sway bar detached, used mig wire to run through the knuckle and up to where the struts mount to keep the weight off of the ball joints and to stop the knuckle from dropping down Support axle with floor jack and Remove the 4 bolts per side that hold on the axle to its mounting bracket and slowly lower the axle allowing the cv axles to "bind" on the lower control arms. This is to drop the axle enough to access the motor mounts Next up, remove the motor mount bolts that are bolting the motor to the subframe. Its easier to take off the bolts without the floor jack/wood supporting the motor now cause the motor weight will just go onto the subframe which is still bolted up at this point They are a bit trickey to get to so we found the easiest way was to just use your leg to do the work Once those bolts are removed, find something to support the motors weight from the oil pan. In our case we only had one floor jack, so we cut a 4x4 block to length to support it...worked like a charm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 (edited) Onto removal of the subframe bolts that mount to the body. These bolts gave us the greatest issue of all, and we had to use a torch to get the bolts red hot than a big impact gun to remove the bolts Be careful for fires There are two points on each side of the truck were the subframe bolts to the body, 2 bolts per location so 8 bolts total. Here are the other bolts that need to be removed where the LCA bolts to the body. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE ALL BOLTS YET JUST LOOSEN THEM! Once all bolts are loosened we took ratchet straps and ran them through the knuckle to support it while allowing the knuckle to travel down with the subframe. We also placed jackstands right under the lca mounts where the bushings are to rest the rear of the subframe on Disconnect the steeering linkage, after securing the steering wheel....I haz no pics of this Once thats done, we took a 2x4 cut to the length of the front of the subframe and laid it on the jack, to support the length of the subframe. Once the jack is in place, remove all the bolts that bolt the subframe to the body and slowly lower the subframe, watching for any wires being conected. Also the rack and pinion pressure sensor wire needs to be removed. Lower just enough to place the engine blocks on the studs, about 5in. Jack setup Start placing all the blocks in place starting with the engine blocks and then the subframe blocks This is about where we stopped, took me and a friend from 7pm til 3am to get this far Edited October 20, 2010 by 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 (edited) So the next day we both slept til about 4pm and went back to work Placed all the blocks in place and torqued them to spec Engine Blocks Rear view Once all the blocks are in place raise the subframe up to the blocks and install all bolts. Its easier to use a screwdriver with a long shank to help pull everything into place. Once everything is pulled into place and torqued to spec install your steering extension and reconnect the rack and pinion pressure sensor. Dont have any pics of this step. Bolt the strut spacers to the struts and check for proper alignment of them. Take them and hold in place while using a jack to raise the knuckle into location to place the strut bolts into the strut. (again no pics..sorry) Next up is to take and bend the rack and pinion bracket (i will get a pic tomorrow of this) basically take off the bracket and bend it then re install allowing the steering rack to turn Lastly torque on the wheels and tires...we had to use a few 2x4's to get the truck high enough to do so Finished front, just have to get another camber bolt for the passenger tire and switch out one strut spacer when I can get back into the shop to work again. My front fender measurment is at 43 1/2 inches at the moment Before the lift After Edited October 20, 2010 by 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 (edited) Took some pics of the steering rack rotation, literally takes about 10 minutes to do. You can see the rack, and the brackets that hold it on. Loosen the passenger bracket and remove the drivers side braket, bend accoring to the picture I got from Shift220, and replace with washers to make up for the difference in space for mounting. Rest of post reserved for rear lift Edited October 23, 2010 by 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 im dieing to see finished pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 (edited) Reserved for post lift general pictures and a rough list of supplies needed and such once I can think of one lol Edited October 20, 2010 by 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Reserved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Reserved Go back to your lamebutt wd section foo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Go back to your lamebutt wd section foo Reserved for future beatings and thread bashing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Whats with all the hate lately on r50s? Its probably because we finally found a way to lift up higher and really challenge a wd offoroad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Whats with all the hate lately on r50s? Its probably because we finally found a way to lift up higher and really challenge a wd offoroad I don't see any hate? I was just messing with you bro. You know I love your rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northernpathy Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Whats with all the hate lately on r50s? Its probably because we finally found a way to lift up higher and really challenge a wd offoroad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 This thread is sick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 AND BADASS!!! Tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 Thanks guys, I figured id be the one to post up the first decent kinda step by step instructions of sorts. I know id have loved to see more of the process before I had my go at it, but I just took things as they came. Andrew (shift220) has also been a huge help in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAK Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Great to see it getting done, hope to see it finished soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCrow Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Envious , the Pathy is looking good once the rear is leveled it would be awsome . That dwarfed R50 is looking next to yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXEDpath Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 LOOKS AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so jealous right now dude... Question for ya though how much $ are you in on the lift so far??? and I'm sorry bout not getting back to you about the missing link I've been really under the weather for the last little while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 LOOKS AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so jealous right now dude... Question for ya though how much $ are you in on the lift so far??? and I'm sorry bout not getting back to you about the missing link I've been really under the weather for the last little while... Uh well about 600 for the ac lift (coils, struts, shocks, Manual Hubs) and I paid 800 like an idiot for my sfd plus a 52 dollar custom brake line, and possibly 152 for different strut spacers which I may or may not use. So me personally, im in atleast $1452 to $1604. WOW, I never really added it up before LOL. But I paid for hte sfd two years ago so I kinda got over spending that much. But now you can get a sfd kit for $450 so you should be able to get where im at for around a grand, which is right about what it would cost to lift any other vehicle 6in as well so its whatever. Gotta pay to play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Gotta pay to play You got that right. But it's so worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenook Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 hi folks from freeeeezing England ,i like what youve done there, now ive got to work it all out to right hand drive and take up residence in my work shop. just need to get a compressor before i start, figure air tools are the future. thanks for putting youre photos on . cool rig Franc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 It's the same deal for RHD. In fact subframe drop fabrication began in Japan, a company called MuddJayson. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenook Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 hi even better, happy days as they say here, I'l be starting the blocks asap . regards Franc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I didn't want to JACK your awsome thread, but i had a bunch of questions over here KR FAB Vendor Section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenook Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 hi once again from a cold england, what do people do to raise their pathy's without the sub frame drop . springs ? shocks? if so has anyone sourced any hybrid parts? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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