iPath Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 not hatin on those wheels, but some black steelies would do wonders for the look of your truck overall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted November 12, 2010 Author Share Posted November 12, 2010 not hatin on those wheels, but some black steelies would do wonders for the look of your truck overall Tell me about it brah. But thats more money and as things stand now I have better things to spend money on. First thing I need to replace is my strut mount that has a squeaky bearing that is driving me crazy....everytime I stop it squeaks. Ontop of that I need new ball joints soon, as well as extended rear links to help re center the axle. I am really hoping to get a job so I can start making money. Being a broke college kid really sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 Okay so I know that some of yall asked for fender measurements awhile back and I finally got around to taking some tonight when I was bored so here is what I came up with in terms of numbers...keep in mind that this is a 6.5in lift up front and around 5 or so in the back on around a 32in tire Ground to bottom of subframe- 16 Inches Ground to bottom of front fender flare (fender measurement)- 42 Inches Ground to bottom of rear fender flare- 40 Inches Ground to bottom of doors- 25 1/2 Inches Ground to bottom of trailer hitch- 22 Inches Ground to bottom of front bumper plastic in the middle- 22 Inches Let me know if there are any other measurements yall want to know and I will be able to get them for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 where would you recommend to do first the front of back? because im planning on doing on myself this upcoming summer and have never done anything like it before. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Front for sure, its the most time consuming so do it when you are fresh lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Front for sure, its the most time consuming so do it when you are fresh lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 (edited) Are you popin many CVs? <- serious question Edited March 24, 2011 by systemf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Are you popin many CVs? <- serious question I have a split boot on one but its oem with 106k on it. Never actually broke one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 what type of shock and strut should i use? Rancho RS5000 or Rancho 9000Xl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Im using pro comp es3000 shocks in the rear. KYB GR-2 Struts up front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 k right on thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 what type of shock and strut should i use? Rancho RS5000 or Rancho 9000Xl. I'm sure that we all have personal prefferences. I'm running the RS5000's on my AC 2" lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 i think i can figure out how to lift my r50 for free aside from the extended brake lines and steering shaft since dont want to use a block spacer which im not a fan of. do you know the exact measurements of the blocks? the four sub frame blocks, strut spacers and engine spacers? if you could that would be awesome help.oh ya and what pitch are the strut spacers on? this would be awesome help if you have a way of finding out. thanks Whats with all the hate lately on r50s? Its probably because we finally found a way to lift up higher and really challenge a wd offoroad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 looks sick man. nice job. im getting the same struts and shocks priced out right now. how much did they cost you? the Ranchos and KYBs? I'm sure that we all have personal prefferences. I'm running the RS5000's on my AC 2" lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 (edited) Third picture down. the black things that would sit under your springs. are they the Wj coil adapters that come with subframe drop kit on krfabs.com? Okay yall, figured id go ahead and post up the rest of the pics from when I finished up the rest of the lift this past weekend. It was a relatively straight forward process that only took us about 2 hours to complete. We did not make a panhard rod drop bracket cause we measured and did not notice any shift in the axle. But its on the list of things to get done. Also need to get some extended rear links or build them to help recenter the axle cause its obvious that it got pulled forward quite a bit. First off jack the ass end wayyyy up in the air and place jack stands right in front of where the lower links mount and take off the tires. Then take off the shocks and rear brake line....you absolutely have to get a new one for this there is no getting around it In order to get the axle to drop enough we detached the upper links from the axle and that gave us just enough room to fit the coils on with the spacers. We also detached the panhard rod from the axle to keep it from binding I know we forgot to detach the lsv spring but oh well, it didnt break lol Next install the new brake line being careful not to strip out the lines....no pics of that Next was to weld on the spacers 3 small beads did the trick After that just re install the shocks and put the wheels and tires back on and bleed the brakes...it was about 1000 times more easy to do than the front was lol. I will make a seperate post with pics and such of the completed project. Tools you will need to complete the sfd lift -Big Set of Jackstands...atleast 3ton -Big Jack that can raise the rear of the truck high up in the air -Assorted tools and wrenches -Air tools made some things easier but are not required -Breakerbar -Lots of PB Blaster -Torch comes in handy to help loosen stubborn bolts -Torque Wrench -Brake Fluid -Friends help alot Edited April 26, 2011 by DCgabel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 question. could i weld/adjust the rear coil adapter-spacers so that i make the pathy sit level? just notice that your is 42 on the front and 40 on the back. possible? Front for sure, its the most time consuming so do it when you are fresh lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 looks sick man. nice job. im getting the same struts and shocks priced out right now. how much did they cost you? the Ranchos and KYBs? I can't remember the exact cost of the struts/shocks as I ordered them along with the springs and manual hubs. $930'ish for the whole package delivered I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 question. could i weld/adjust the rear coil adapter-spacers so that i make the pathy sit level? just notice that your is 42 on the front and 40 on the back. possible? I believe that the problem with the added height gained would result with the rear axel "pulling" forward. The trailing arms need to be lengthened along with the drive shaft (correct me if I'm wrong SFD'ers) to accommodate the offset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Devonianwalk - you are talking about re-centering the axle and in that case yes you would have to get new links and driveshaft made. DCGabel - in order to make it completely level you are going to have to take in account the sag the springs will have and buy some rubber coil spacers to put in to level it out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Devonianwalk - you are talking about re-centering the axle and in that case yes you would have to get new links and driveshaft made. Am I correct in thinking that the axel pulls forward as the rear end is lifted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 Yes the higher up you go the closer the tire will be to the fender flare cause its being pulled in. The fix would be to get longer links upper and lower and then a custom driveshaft or driveshaft spacer. And those are spring spacers that were welded to the spring perch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 i was wondering if you could tell me how tall were the spacers on your kit exactly? could you possibly email me the specs? dylangabel@hotmail.com id really appreciate it. thanks Yes the higher up you go the closer the tire will be to the fender flare cause its being pulled in. The fix would be to get longer links upper and lower and then a custom driveshaft or driveshaft spacer. And those are spring spacers that were welded to the spring perch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 (edited) You know where i can get new links? and as for the drive shaft, i know its possible to buy spacers. you know where i could get one for the pathy specifically? thanks Yes the higher up you go the closer the tire will be to the fender flare cause its being pulled in. The fix would be to get longer links upper and lower and then a custom driveshaft or driveshaft spacer. And those are spring spacers that were welded to the spring perch. Edited May 13, 2011 by DCgabel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 What size bolts came with the kit to bolt on the blocks? they like two inch grade eights? Third picture down. the black things that would sit under your springs. are they the Wj coil adapters that come with subframe drop kit on krfabs.com? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 I dont really remember to be honest, its been quite a bit since the life was installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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