DCgabel

I just replaced the whole works. Took the old pan off replaced with a new one with new screws. Scraped the old sealant off put new on and replaced the front and rear seals. All in all, new cost totaled approx. $298 CDN. Thats for a new Oil pan both seals and all new bolts. Little pricey but i wanted it done. I found one off a wreckers for $80 but id have to buy new bolts and seals anyways and the pan wasn't the best condition anyways

Hello Fellow Npora members, I have a manual vg33e engine in a 96 R50 that has a significant leak from the oil pans. Now, i know that you can simply buy the gaskets online and replace them but what about the lower pan? I have it leaking out of there too. I was thinking of taking it all apart and just rtv-ing it all back nicely but im just fishing for ideas and what other people have done. Thanks!

Those do look good. i managed to make my own for under $100 cdn. A chop saw and welder handy of course.

Yes, pictures would potentially help. Check out my thread it may help. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31251-sub-frame-drop/

bolts are rusted round. im looking into a full removal and replacement. Cant get around it anymore. Cursed canadian winter and the salt they use on the roads.

Yup you got it,

You will need to bump the camber out a bit. I just got a full alignment after i was done to be safe just so i didn't potentially make a mistake if i did it myslef.

The higher you lift the closer the drive shaft will bring the rear tires to the inner rear rocker it will rub if you go to high so you will need to re work the rear to make it work. Plus if i went any higher i would need to do a lot of replacing in the front because the a arms can only go so high when dropping the sub-frame. If you go to high you bind the CV axles. i have 32" tires on mine right now so i guess it would depend on the size of tire you have on your pathy. Hope i can clear that up for you. Anymore questions just let me know!

Put it this way, you can bind a little depends how much of a risk you want to take, i personally would not but its possible to get away with a little just might eat through boots. Doin some custom work might be in your favor. Regardless of how much you drop the sub-frame you will need to match that space in the struts either by a bigger spring or a spacer. But ya if your going with a lift any higher at that point considering a solid front axle swap would not be a bad thought.

i did consider it at the time but i like the height at which it sits right now. Its definitely no crawler but i wasn't trying to go for that. i just like that mild lifted look. But to answer your question ya, i would have to re-work the rear suspension to level it out again if i installed front lift springs.

awesome awesome, thanks guys.

So while doing a bit of work to the pathy i found that my oil pan seal has seen better days, SO! i know i could go to the dealership and fork out lots of green for a new one but i was hoping maybe someone knew an online source i could potentially purchase a new one from. its a vg33e on a manual trans.

I figured it would be in that but i dont have one, is it possible to get one in PDF? Because that would be conveniently awesome.

I used the welded on ones because they were cheaper and i have my own welder. As for the strut spacers, i knew a guy who took the time to figure out all the angles and made his own. i think he has a thread on NPORA with all the drawings he made for them but im not sure you'd have to look.

You got it. The pig tail at the top did have to be cut off to fit around the coil isolator on the top. And you could cut both pig tails off so they would fit without the adapter but them the 3" would be to shallow and it would have a mad sag in the back, so i guess in theory if you get a spring that could compensate for the amount of coil you would be cutting off then yes it could work. I just used the adapters so i didn't have to mess around with measuring and finding a coil that would work. I apologize for the lack of info on the rear part of the lift, ive currently been tired up with doing a full engine restore so ive been scarce online.

Just wondering the torque specs for the rocker arm bolts on my vg33e. If anyone knows i would love to know, thanks!

Do you know where i could find torque specs? i cant find any in the FSW.

I have one. Just making sure. Thanks!

(1996 Pathfinder LE 3.3l VG33E) Hello, Just because I'm not a mechanic and everything I've done so far is by teaching myself or from learning from mechanics, i have a question since i'm tackling the task of a full engine rebuild and i'm at the point where I'm putting everything back together now that all the crucial parts have been replaced. I have the valves heads all back together and I'm at the point where i am ready to bolt the head back down to the block. Is there anything i should be doing to keep everything in order to not mess up my timing? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

A little update. So just a heads up to those doing this same job. Do your best not to miss this bolt. Its on the passenger side head around the back. Its pretty difficult to see. Another if you look at the first page of this forum you'll see the driver side head of my engine. When i took the valve cover off my passenger side i hummed and hawed as to whether i should just take it all apart, clean and replace because it was much dirtier than my driver side. So, i decided to go ahead and take it all apart and clean it since my gasket kit came with new valve stem seals anyway.

So far so good. so Ive gone a little deeper and decided to redo all the valves too figured why not since I'm here anyways. And just a thought on that. should i be replacing the rocker arm rail bolts? Just curious, would be hating myself if they needed to be replaced after doing all this horse @!*%ack to the engine. Thanks for all the help! Ill have more pictures up tonight on my progress time/motivation permitting.

Heads are all off and everything is cleaned up nicely. As for putting the new gasket on should i be doing more than cleaning the surface and putting the new HG on or should i be spraying on copper gasket spray on the new gasket before installing.