DCgabel

Nope not really unless they r not rusted badly. mine where right through so water was getting inside my door which is not ideal so replacing was the route that i took unless you have a mechanical engineer friend that can machine or cnc you custom made ones.. my mech eng friend told me that after i bought and install my new ones. Oh well, lesson learned on being hastey.

So an update, I got all my seals and gaskets in the mail finally yesterday so im back at it. All the head bolts are out but the two inner top ones on the passenger side which r caught under the rocker arm rail, they r lose but i cant take them out without remove the rod rail which i dont really want to do just yet. I am trying to take the valve head off the block but its on there nice and firm. Anyone know if i should be tapping it with a sand shot to work it off or is there more because im able to lift the front of the head up but the back seems to be on there pretty good. should i just keep working it out or is there more? the two bolts r not holding it on because they r lose and i can move them up and down when im trying to take the valve head off. On another thought whats better steel or graphite head gaskets. ive heard good and bad about both cant make up my mind. The kit came with graphite.

Torque to yield. thats what i meant not (shear) shear would be bad. Thanks for the torque specs!

I've got new head bolts. i wasnt gunna put the old ones back in because when they are installed in the factory the are tightened to the max shear, so when taking them out and putting them back in you will never get them as tight as rec torque because the bolts will be to weak and snap. Thanks im praying it all pans out. ill be finding out soon though!

Okay finally got it off. the rear pass. side bolt was seized on so i PB blasted and pried it off usuing a veriety of tools. How many bolts to get the heat shield off the exhaust header?

Okay I cannot get this lower intake plenum off. ive tried for two nights now tapping and pulling. im starting to lose my patience now. i swear im missing something like a hose disconnect. its lose and i have almost half an inch of space inbetween the plenum and the valve heads. What the heck am i doing wrong?? it wiggles freely but i cannot pull it up and off..

So far everything is going good. But im having a hard time getting the lower intake plenum off. its stuck on one of the pins that fasten it to the valve heads. Cant seem to get it to come off nicely and i dont want to force it and end up breaking or damaging something.

Hey man, i dont see or know everything. but like i said i drove it once a every two weeks or so and was fine i let it sit and came in one morning to see all the oil spilled over the floor. Im just seeking help and ideas here. As for your theory, It is possible but not very probable. my keys r locked up in my tool chest most of the time.

Thanks for the PDF, I appreciate all the help. so far ive been ragging all cavities and masking wires so i dont get them mixed up. ill keep posting as i go. Thanks again.

No. TB is still on. Ive been putting it off because i just replaced th TB, water pump, accessory belts, the whoel works literally three months ago, hahah but i know it needs to come off. After everythings off do i have to pull the Cam apart? I have a new seal for it in my shop, might be worth replacing if im in there anyways?

I have a haynes rebuild manual. Ive been stepping through it for torque specs.

So far this is what ive done to work my way down to the cylinder head which i was planning on taking out next to get at the head gasket. I dont know of an easier way to do this. Any thoughts? Does anyone know/or think that the engine needs to be pulled in order to replace the head gasket?

Im fairly certain it is. It didnt blow while driving as far as i know but the oil looks like chocolate milk and ive been told that a fairly good sign of a leaking head gasket. This is how much oil i found on the ground the morning i noticed the problem. i put wood chip on the ground to try to soak the oil up. (ive drained the remaning oil) This is where it all leaked from.Right below where the header attaches to the cylinder head. The engine block was completely soaked. The tranny is in the way but this is the best picture i could get considering the angle.

i called a nissan dealship and breifly spoke with a mechanic and he said that i didnt have to pull the engine out to replace it. Now im not sure if he mistook me and thought that i was talking about the valve cover seal or not, i should have specified. Anyways, its definately the head gasket. If you look at this link (grant that it works) look at part number three. Its a gasket, that is where i saw all the oil leaking out onto the floor. Mad quite a mess, id say spilled at least 2 to 3 quarts. You might have to copy and paste the link. http://www.orderinfinitiparts.com/parts/1999/INFINITI/QX4/?siteid=215003&vehicleid=1355778&diagram=F622040

Well imy pathy isnt my everyday driver. i had been slowly rebuilding everything on it just as a hobby. So far everythings been good up to this point. Do you mean overheated??? if so, no. It didnt. I just came out one morning to see pretty much every drop of oil leaked out onto my garage floor. (maybe 3 quarts or so). Just recently i drove it for a day and then it sat for about a week, week and a half and thats when i noticed all the oil spilled on the ground.

Severe loss of oil just below the valves. Not above where the valve cover is. Because thats a fairly straight forward fix of just taking the intake manifold off and the valve cover and replacing the seal. Its leaking from the one just below it. (drivers side)

I think i have a blown head gasket or cylinder gasket. i need help to fix it and am wondering if anyone else has done this type of thing before. i own a r50 1996 pathfinder manual. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Hey just a question ive done a full belt change on my pathy and my a/c belt seems to be too big and im sure i ordered the right one because i checked the product number but i have the tensioner as far as it will go and the belt is still very lose. what belt did you buy?

Hey just wondering if you replaced your p/s belt. If so did yours fit properly? because i replaced mine and it wont fit. ive got the tensioner as far as it will go. any thoughts?

Yup, i put them back on during the winter while i was welding up my rocker sliders. theyre off now that im done my sliders.

Your best bet is the AC lift. It will give your the height your looking for without having to do anything so drastic as a full out SFD.

Its a factory option when the truck was made. Though im sure if oneself has a creative mind and ambition its possible make something similar. With a welder and some tubing the skys the limit.

If im understanding you correctly you just spaced your strut tower five inches without doing anything to your sub frame? To straighten out your control arm you'll need to space your sub frame out just as many inches as your struts spacers. That will bring your control arms back to factory position.

KRfabs.com a custom fab company based out of Sturgeon County in Alberta Canada. i bought most of my parts from them. Others i was able to make myself, just to save some cash. http://www.krfabs.com/home.php