edicer2 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 (edited) Ok so me and Adam Z figured out why i have been having this wobbling problem for a while now. Here is mine Here is his notice how i am missing that part that holds the bushing by the frame and i am getting a huge hole also how crooked it is? how do i fix that? Edited April 8, 2010 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 you can weld a bearing race of a similar size into that spot in order to fix that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Get new bushings, I recommend the poly kind as you need all the stiffness you can get. Steeevo at Rugged Rocks will set you up, the price is for one set, not each side so don't be a twit like me and order two... There are several threads (search, my friend, and post your findings here so they are all connected...) about this exact thing. You need to get some bearing races and have them tack welded in place to support the bushings. Yes, the threads even say what type/size IIRC. Odds are that the other side looks even worse. You may need a new through rod from a junk yard, if not new. As bad as that is, I recommend not driving it; it is dangerous and will only wear the other components terribly quickly. Take it apart and find out all the parts you need first, then get everything and do it right. I replaced my bushings last year and was amazed how bad things looked on a truck that only spent 1 year in a rust state... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frecklecolouredbrain Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 you'll have to weld in a repacement. I think i used 5/16" fender washers. you don't need a cup or anything to hold the bushing as ong as the washer is a snug fit around the spacer you'll get with the new bushing kit. what you're going to have to check is how badly your compression rod is worn underneath the old bushing; which could be sort of fused to the rod(use a wire brush on a bench grinder). If its worn into the rod more than 1/8" replace it immediately. if its less, use your judgement; Mine were about 1/8" worn where the compression rod was rubbing on the frame, I didn't replace it and it's held up well for about a year of HEAVY use. This is a pretty big job. you'll need: impact wrench + sockets large adjustable wrench wheels blocks( if you do it on the ground**) acetylene torch if all goes wrong proper size METRIC replacement nut( if you have to use the torch. welder+someone who can weld. my suggestion is that you have the new bushing kit, compression rod, and all tools on hand before you start and return what you don't use. I did mine in a Canadian Tire Garage so I had everything i needed, and could just go and buy anything else that came up. If i hadn't had that i woulda been f^&ked. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 (edited) I replaced mine with a 15/16" combination wrench (the size of the nut on the back of the compression rod, or comparable size metric, but a 15/16" will work perfectly), a torch, a hammer, a few various sockets for bolts I don't even remember (I think the bolts holding the compression rod to the LCA are a 17mm?), and a bench grinder. Hell I didn't even replace the busing cups, I just stuck fatty washers in... It is extremely dangerous to drive with - the only reason I even drove with my bushings worse than yours was because I had no other vehicle and had to get to school every day. Sometimes it scared the living piss out of me it shook so bad. Edited April 7, 2010 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 you don't need a cup or anything to hold the bushing as ong as the washer is a snug fit around the spacer you'll get with the new bushing kit. I have to disagree with this, there is a reason that the bushings are beveled and located in a cup; you don't want a metal on metal fit without support. That's how the rods wear in the first place, the bushings wear out and allow lateral movement. By all rights, this should have been a 60k mile change interval item. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Agreed, Not only does the cup allow for a proper fit against the rounded bushing, but it also correctly supports it through the range of suspension movement... which is the whole reason they are rounded in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 yeah stinks i have my z i could drive but i rteally hate driving it to school people at college just are jealous or something and i dont think there wasa time i drove it there without getting new key marks or door dings so i try to advoid it and just limp the pathy im bringing it in to get it checked out. I bought some poly bushings from rockauto a while ago thinking it was that beforei notice how bad the bar is and that the bearing race was gone. Ill probably go get new tension rods or w/e they are called and replace them all so its good to go and i dont need to worry about it. Ill update this when i get it done with how i fixed it thanks for the ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 New rods are about $75 from the dealer (for the pair), and come with new nyloc nuts for the rod end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 my dealer wants 100 a side for bushings, rods, and washers , and nuts so im going to see how bad mine are. I got new bushings from rock auto im going to try. We are using washers to fix the holes that are stretched out and also the bearing races to fix the part missing. hopefully this works ill keep you guys updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Hey eric let me know the dimensions of the washers and bearing races you use as I just noticed today that one of my bushing cups has split and probably won't last much longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 ok sounds good ill ask what size the guy welding them on went with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 (edited) Alright got it fixed i had the holes welded s h u t and redrilled them out, then welded on a A-17 bearing race(posted pictures of box) then put a c r a p load of welding beads on the tension rods then grinded them smooth to build them up from all the rubbing they did they were a little worn out. Heres the after math this should be stronger than the orginal! I did this to both sides to be on the safe side and no more wobble! Edited April 8, 2010 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Looks good man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Yes, Sir, that should work. It is about 157x better than it was... Any feed back from driving it?? You may want to rotate the tires and have an alignment... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 (edited) welli just put the 32" tires on like a week ago so they should be ok it feels way better and much stiffer. When i hit bumps before it would go all over the place. Drives nice and straight could be alined again though pulls to the right ever so slightly but before it used to fly at the curb if i let go of the wheel lol Edited April 8, 2010 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 what part number is the bushings on that bro? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 @!*%... looks like this is what I need to do to fix my death wobble... great, lol. Should be fun, especially for someone like me with, at best, no real welding skills and a meager Propane/Oxygen welding torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 haha yeah i bet gl with that! It defiantly made it feel like new! Im not sure the bushings part number i got them from rockauto though. They are the moog brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Any recommendations for the mechanically inclined? I don't own a welder or anything like that. Or know how to weld. Mine is bad lol Here it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Any recommendations for the mechanically inclined? I don't own a welder or anything like that. Or know how to weld. Mine is bad lol Here it is take it to a shop or have a friend do it. that is really bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Oh boy... I don't have any friends who can work on cars. Could a nissan dealer do it? Despite the fact they'd charge me ridiculous amounts of money of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 yeah thats about how mine was. I would bring it to a small shop not the nissan dealer. I thin ka smaller shop would be more willing to fix it for cheaper. Shop around. explain to them how to fix it so they dont need to sit around and figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 yeah thats about how mine was. I would bring it to a small shop not the nissan dealer. I thin ka smaller shop would be more willing to fix it for cheaper. Shop around. explain to them how to fix it so they dont need to sit around and figure it out. I'll ask around. I guess I gotta break out the S10 until I get this fixed. i never really noticed my steering being too wobbly though. It felt loose just not that bad. So what I gotta do is get new bushings and a bearing or something welded on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 yes you need to order new tension rod bushing and get a bearing race size a-17 atleast from the brand i posted and then have them weld on the outer ring part to replace what is gone on yours. Fix it soon because the longer you wait the more it rubs and wears out the tension rods. It costed me 200 total to get it done including parts and having a local shop weld it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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