Jump to content

Running Your Pathy on WATER


TrailChaser
 Share

Recommended Posts

Agreed, CA is asinine about modifications, but I think that's mainly to discourage 'smog cheaters' which, frankly, I am for. BUT if it is a system that CLEARLY has SIGNIFICANT benefit, I'd happily fight with them over it...

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hince my 87 with 95 (that stil needs some work) will never get smogged...b/c they'll give me @!*% for increasing the emissions standards by 8 years

??? explain...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed, CA is asinine about modifications, but I think that's mainly to discourage 'smog cheaters' which, frankly, I am for. BUT if it is a system that CLEARLY has SIGNIFICANT benefit, I'd happily fight with them over it...

 

B

 

 

You'll lose. If you do ANYTHING that is different from the factory that "may" affect emissions and it does not have CARB EO paid for and assigned, it is illegal. You can try to fight, but if there is a piece of equipment that is not factory stock or does not have an EO, you will lose 99% of the time.

Hence, the whole Frankenvan scenario. The fuel injection system I installed on the '79 was illegal because it did not have an EO. The 90%+ reduction in emissions was considered irrelevant.

Edited by mws
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exactly, I have heard of quite a few similar stories.

 

When you start to realize the whole "green" thing isn't about saving anything, but rather a new reason to tax you and control you.

Edited by GrimGreg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, good point Martin, GG. I think I was just feeling my oats when I typed that. My old dune buggy with dual 40mm carbs, 1776cc motor with straight pipes ran so clean, the smog tech tested his sniffer on another vehicle because he thought it wasn't working. The baja wouldn't pass 'visual inspection' but ran cleaner than most anything else. Sheer idiocy... :shrug:

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A guy I work with is doing this to his jeep, we were talking about it and he said that I did it I should get stainless valves and stainless exhaust because there will constantly be a little bit-o-water dripping thru your system that wasn't fully converted.

I told him I thought that the temp that the engine reaches was more than enough to get rid of with any small amount of watter coming across the valves and there'd be none left when it came out the exhaust. (if there really was any to begin with)

I dono if thats the right answer or if what he said migt be a consideration for yall but I just thought I'd put that out there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a good point, but I'd guess that the volume is so low it shouldn't make a difference. Years ago when I researched motors running on Browns gas alone, you needed to ceramic coat the pistons, cylinders, etc to keep it from rusting away on you. :shrug:

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bah, I've run at LEAST 40 gallons of straight distilled water through my van's engine (350) and not a problem whatsoever. I was testing the water injection idea to see if it gave better mileage. Nope. Not on a carb'd old Chevy van, anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just wanted to let everyone know that I'm working on it and the offer still stands for others to test this with me.

TrailChaser, I've watched your videos a few times I was wondering if you taped any more progress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

None yet, I need to get the new cell and electronics built and tested. For now I'm running a simple smacks booster(google for free plans) and it's definitely making my engine run quiet. As for gas mileage, I don't have any results to post. My speedo is not hooked up so I'd need to run a good distance with my GPS to check it. I think what I'm going to do instead is put a smacks booster in my wifes car w/out her knowledge and do a blind test. She's VERY anal about her mileage so she'll definitely report an increase or decrease.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think what I'm going to do instead is put a smacks booster in my wifes car w/out her knowledge and do a blind test. She's VERY anal about her mileage so she'll definitely report an increase or decrease.

 

 

That would be a fantastic, and meaningful experiment. Blind experiments are infinitely more valid than biased. Better yet is double blind, but it would take more effort.

And to improve validity, repeat the experiment. Repeatedly. One tank with, one tank without, one tank with, one tank without, etc.

After 3 or 4 repetitions, you can start making some valid conclusions.

I have some statistical software (and knowledge on how to use it) and would be quite willing to run the numbers for you.

MS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A guy I work with is doing this to his jeep, we were talking about it and he said that I did it I should get stainless valves and stainless exhaust because there will constantly be a little bit-o-water dripping thru your system that wasn't fully converted.

I told him I thought that the temp that the engine reaches was more than enough to get rid of with any small amount of watter coming across the valves and there'd be none left when it came out the exhaust. (if there really was any to begin with)

I dono if thats the right answer or if what he said migt be a consideration for yall but I just thought I'd put that out there.

 

Even without adding any water you are always putting water through the engine, unless you are in a location that is so arid there is 0 humidity. Water vapor is a component of air, so you will always have water there. As for the exhaust side, there is water going through it if the engine is running properly anyway, that is why cheap steel exhausts will rust out of a car even in a non rust prone area. Which is why they sell all the stainless exhaust systems to begin with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if small amounts of water not water vapor get into the intake It will evaporate before it gets into the cylinders...I dont think you need to worry about SST exhaust maybe just check to see if your muffler (and maybe the cat) has a weep hole in it and that the exhaust is all down hill to there so any buildup of condensation when you stop in the cooler months will drain out of the system and not sit there to rust that low point in the system...

 

I dont think i'd go SST just b/c of the price and the way you wheel...a nice $600+ system gets smashed up on the trail and someone isnt going to be happy...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I got interested in these systems after seeing this auction on EBAY - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=130236930743

He received positive feedback from the buyer so I emailed him to tell me more about this system. He told me he ordered the plans from http://www.todaywater4gas.com and built it himself. He is using 2 generators in this car which is very similar to our cars and he claimed 30 - 50 mpg. I would think that if this was bs, he would have received negative feedback. I want to try a pre-made acrylic unit that is already assembled and tested - I don't really want to screw around with building the unit and dialing it in. I am now in the process of upgrading the alternator and I will get a kit like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HHO-Hydroge...t=1218604557520

Has anyone made any progress at this point?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

yeh, the whole think kinda just died huh? Maybe its cause gass went back down...But its a trick!!!! even tho prices went down after the dramatic rise it is still not as low as it was a year ago. They want us to think its better but its not as good as it was. keep trying I say!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How is it surplus energy? The alternator might have "excess capacity" but it will be producing the energy that is needed based on the load. Any extra load being put on the alternator puts extra load on the engine and thus burns more fuel.

 

since the conversation turned to CA emissions, I wanted to jump back and address this...

 

The altenator generates voltage and current based on it's build (rotor, windings, etc). There is a voltage regulator that's controlled by the ECU that controls the amount of voltage that circulates through the system. It does this by sensing the output of the rectifier or diodode bridge (the part that converts the AC to DC), determines the output necessary and allows more energy to flow in the rotor coil (the inner moving one), creating more energy in the stator coils (the stationary ones). Any additional 'load' introduced by adding energy into this system is negligable compared to the load on the engine that is present just to turn the altenator. Unlike the AC compressor, the altenator does not have a clutch that engages and disengages it as needed. Drawing more current will only have the effect of making the regulator open it's gates a little more to keep the required level of power back to the battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...