captainsae

Thanks RJ! This may be better left to a pro. I have most of the tools to do this but I would probably end up spending more money on the ones I don't have and a better manual than it would cost just to get them done somewhere.

Actually the bottle I bought said it was safe to use in LSD diffs and when it failed, I called Lucas to ask what was up. She told me that it should have been just fine and didn't understand why I would be having a problem. I didn't see any labeled specifically for lsd - if I do I would gladly try that one.

Was wondering if there was a tutorial on changing the front brakes including the pads and the rotors on a 1995 Pathfinder. I tried to use the search feature but didn't find anything and my useless Haynes manual only covers brakes on a 2 wheel drive Pathy. I need to know how to repack the auto-locking hubs, bearings, etc. I was hoping that someone has already posted how to properly do this.

I highly recommend AGAINST using Lucas brand rear diff fluid. I used some when I last changed mine and it would clank and bind whenever I turned a corner. I had to use LSD additive to get it right which was a PITA because I had to drain out about 6oz of fluid before I could add the other stuff. I also used some of their oil additive in an attempt to quiet noisy lifters and it made the problem way worse as well as slowed my idle speed down about 150 rpm. Next time I changed my oil I went with Castrol 20-50w high mileage oil and it is quiet as new now.

Yes I have driven it but you can't see the lean while your driving it - only when your outside of the car looking at it. I'm sure it's either a bad coil spring or the torsion bar is shot. It is probably pointless to pursue this until I get two new front tires.

I would say it's about equal on the passenger side front and rear. I'm not sure how to check for bending metal. I put my finger up against the side of the adjuster arm and seemed to feel a little space on top. But the bolt didn't turn easy.

My 1995 pathfinder has developed a lean of about 1 1/2 " on the passenger side which has caused my alignment to be out. I have cranked the passenger side torsion bar until it wouldn't go any further and only gained about 1/4". Could something in the back be dragging it down like a bad shock or coil spring? I hate to keep putting so much pressure on the pass side torsion bar.

I got interested in these systems after seeing this auction on EBAY - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=130236930743 He received positive feedback from the buyer so I emailed him to tell me more about this system. He told me he ordered the plans from http://www.todaywater4gas.com and built it himself. He is using 2 generators in this car which is very similar to our cars and he claimed 30 - 50 mpg. I would think that if this was bs, he would have received negative feedback. I want to try a pre-made acrylic unit that is already assembled and tested - I don't really want to screw around with building the unit and dialing it in. I am now in the process of upgrading the alternator and I will get a kit like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HHO-Hydroge...t=1218604557520 Has anyone made any progress at this point?

Strange - I just unbolted my starter and got it up between the fender well and the exhaust manifold. Didn't drain the oil or remove any other parts! It was a PITA though. You need to have socket extensions and universal joints. The worst part was - The POS starter I got from Advance auto parts was bad and I had to do the whole job all over again the next day. I just got my money back and bought a remanufactured one from the dealer.

I just started this project and I purchased an alternator for a 1985 maxima. As it turns out the one I got is only 80 amps. I found out they can be as low as 70 amps. So make sure you know what you are buying. Now I'm on the hunt for a 90 amp unit. I need the extra amps because I am going to try a HHO hydrogen generator installation. Does anyone here have experience installing one of these?

Does anyone know if a 1994 guage cluster will fit in a 1995? I found one and wanted to buy it to fix my tach but I noticed that there is a digital display on the left and right side of the cluster. My 1995 only has one on the right for the clock. Does anyone know what this display is for?

Well, I put some CRC EQUA-TORQUE differential additive in it and it's quiet as a mouse now. I called Lucas and told them what was going on and all they said was to add their oil stabilizer LOL. I will have to say that I have a pretty low opinion of Lucas products at this point. I'll bet all the oil stabilizer I've put into my engine was a waste of money as well. One guy told me that Royal purple was the shiznit but I couldn't find any in the weight I needed. I've heard Amsoil is great as well. I'll stick with this Lucas crap for now but never again...

Well, I just found this thread on another forum. If anyone is interested, here's the link. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...amp;Main=536625

Let me put it another way. Is it normal for the LSD to clunk if it is working properly? What kind of gear oil do you guys use? Do you use the LSD additive?

I just changed the fluid in my rear differential to Lucas 80w-90. The bottle says that no lsd additive is necessary. Now when I turn a corner slowly, it makes a clunking noise that I can hear and feel. It made no noise or clunking prior to me changing the fluid. Does this mean it's working properly now or does it mean that I need to put LSD additive in the rear end? Or do I need to start all over and use something else completely? Why the hell dont they just sell gear lube made for LSDs in auto parts stores?

Actually my local dealer said my Pathy wandered and pulled to the right after they aligned it. They told me I needed new ball joints to correct the problem. After spending $1,250.00 on new ball joints, guess what? It wandered all over the road and pulled to the right. After screwing around with it for a week, they actually had to bring in a Nissan master mechanic to train the staff how to align the front end. I still had to pay for the ball joints and it still drove like crap until I had it re-aligned at a local tire dealer. So no, it's definately NOT worth it!

"I'd look here... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?act=Search&f=6" I already did that! And nothing relating to the tranny running too cool came up. In fact, nothing about a B&M cooler with a by-pass came up. That is when I posted about 1. the B&M unit and 2. the thought that that a transmission running too cool can be just as bad as one that runs too hot. At least I thought they were pretty important topics to cover before I bothered to do the install. If anyone has any info on these things, please chime in.

My brother's 95 Pathfinder's tranny just blew out at about 150,000 miles. Since my '95 Pathfinder has about 140,000 miles on it, I've decided to install a cooler. After doing some research on the net, I learned that it's just as bad to have your transmission running too cold as it is to have it running too hot. Why would this be? How do you know the best cooler for our cars? I found out that B&M uses a fluid bypass system which alows the tranny to warm up based on the thickness of the fluid so I'm leaning towards that one. Any suggestions?

I'll try the dash smack tonight! I didn't see any hanging. I'll keep my eyes out for a tach so we can get to the bottom of this once and for all. I'm still suspicious of interference in the wiring because it works perfect at idle.

The tach in my 1995 pathy seems to work fine at idle, but when the rpms get to around 1500 it just seems to freeze until the rpms get back down to @1500. Has anyone here had any luck fixing their tach? I would buy a new one at the dealer if I was sure it was indeed the tack. The only thing that happened right before it went out is when I was checking the autotragic transmission fluid, I noticed some melting of the wire harness cover where it was almost touching the exhaust manifold. So I checked the wires and wire-tied them away from the manifold. Maybe I'm getting some electrical interference? I took the wire-tie off and it did not help so it's probably just a coinsidence.

Just wanted to give an update on the lock timer. The new one came in today and I installed it. Everything works perfect now. Even when I jiggle the wires everything works perfect. So, I think we have found the problem for the very common power lock failure that nobody else in the world (except for us) seems to know anything about.

Good news! The problem IS the lock timer! So give Cuong and Gotrek a prize. Unfortunately, all my solder joints were good so I guess I need to replace it with a new one. To get to the timer, you have to remove the interior panels on the driver's side of the cargo area. Start by unscrewing the pins that hold the trim strip under the hatch, then you can pull that up. The side panel snaps into place so just give it a good tug starting on one side and work your way across until it is off. You will see a grey box mounted with a ground wire for something attached to the mounting bolt. It says lock timer right on the box. As soon as I started pulling it out, my locks activated for the first time in months. I took it apart by using a very small screwdriver to pry one end out and the circuit board just slid out. I checked all the solder connections and they looked perfect so I put it all back together. At first the locks didn't work but I jiggled the plugs a little and now they are working perfect. So I guess the next time I hit a bump they will act up again. I'll try to pick up a new timer tomorrow if I can. I'll let you know if jiggling the wires does anything with the new timer.

I just found this interesting article which shows what the timer looks like and how to fix it! It may be too good to be true but I'll give it a try. http://www.q45.org/timers.html

Simon - I looked under the kick panel and didn't find a breaker or a fuse block. Just a bunch of what looks like relays. I didn't see any signs of corrosion. Gotrek- Do you know which one of the boxes is the timer? There are several. I do not hear ticking.

Thanks for the advise! Where is the timer and the relay located? I checked the main switch and it looked good. I dont believe I have any other door lock switches on the other doors.