180sx

You could always call a dealer and ask them. Although it's not 100% they'll give you the right answer. jose

Can I have your bumper?

That video os of an old DSM (Eclipse/Talon/Laser) and those cars are stupid with the balancers! It's a dumb neon motor in it (420A). But about your R50. This is quite rare as far as I know. If you took off the inner belt and left only the outer belt (I can't remember which is which and its cold and dark outside) then the tension from the belt pulling only the outside and not being counteracted by the inside could have slipped the outer pulley from the isolator a little. I've seen this happen a lot on Eagle Talons. That could be your problem. Jose

That was gonna be y advice. I had something like this and one time the isolator tore off and the other the strut bearing had basically broke to pieces. Also, my strut went bad one time also! I mean, the actual valve inside the strut had broke off, and my shaft was wobbling around. I found this out only after I took the strut off and saw it. Might be it. Jose

Won't work. The seals are different sizes, axles have different splines, and the R50 drums have more torque than the WD21 Discs do anyway. I tinkered with this idea a few months back. No go. And on that note Patrol rear brakes won't work either for the same exact reasons as the WD21. Although I think putting Patrol brakes on a WD21 might work. At the very least they both have 31 spline axles. Jose

Awesome man!! And yes, this would pertain to the SFD (you did have to do it because of the SFD right? So it should be a part of the "SFD Kit"!) Now, Have you adjusted the LSV? Or does your braking feel the same, so there's no need? Jose p.s. Thanks for being the guinea pig for us all in the nice bad ass sticky!!

I doubt its the drive shaft, since it is so short and all. It might be your CV. OR it could be your alignment came off. Thats always a possibility. i would check your steering rack bushing (drivers side) to start with. I'm gonna look at the steering situation in the next few weeks to see if anything can be done about the angle post-SFD. Jose

Can I get a set? Haha. Seriously... Jose

I Love that!!!! I WANT TO DO THAT!! But seriously, that is clever. Jose

yea, did this go through? The more companies who make stuff, the more exposure, the more competition, the more benefits for us R50 owners!!

B...K...I should just sing my post's with J. Too many letters in my name (Jose). Thats a good looking Pathy for sure! Makes me want to paint match my flares now! But 31's with no lift and 32's with AC/OME lift is what you can do (if you didn't know by now). Welcome to the hardship that is our R50's! J (ose)

Well everybody else used 2 universal joints (the pathy one and usually a honda one or another pathy one) to do theirs. Doing it this way meant it had to be at least a 4" lift. With it this high though, you would have to either drop the panhard rod or extend it (as you already know from your 3.5" lift) and the driveshaft would probably have to be extended about an 1" (as Alex said from his experience with his black R50). Extending the driveshaft alone is about $200 though, and then there is the down time from it (unless you want to drive in FWD, which is not recommended at all). I was talking to my buddy today, and he asked me if there was a way I could actually rotate the steering rack to help the angle out. This sounds easy, but then I realized the driver side bracket and the sub frame and the rack itself is shaped to keep the rack at that angle, which would make that an extremely difficult job to accomplish. What do you guys think about that Idea? Jose

Now that makes sense!! And interesting about raising the axle side to raise the roll center. Would this really raise the roll center? Seems like something to investigate over at the 4x4 shop...hmm...(I need a welder of my own!)

Maybe. But I'm thinking more on the lines of trying to keep the geometry as close to stock as possible when my SFD is done (and who knows when that will be. I'm still waiting on my plates! The price you pay when it's free...time!) If it gets to be too much of an angle, then the axle will just move when I don't want it to under some sexy-flexy. Plus it might affect my highway road handling, too. But this is all in theory in my head... Jose

me too! a drop would prolly be best, but i'd get the adjustable for ease.

Oh ok. Makes sense. Thanks. Jose

Question. What does your Locker have to do with your tie-rod ends? This may sound like a dumb question, but I'm really curious to know what your driveline has to do with your steering failing? Jose

Ummm, why would you cut the sub-frame? Don't you have to cut into the crush zone?

I know what you meant!! Haha. But, If you replace the struts, it's probably a good idea to get new Upper strut mounts (OEM ones, not cheap ones and especially not the KYB spherical bearings and mounts!). As for the rear control arms, you might have to get all new bolts/nuts/washers for it (its recommended to do so anyway). And as for a previous comment you made about a steering stabalizer, I don't know how you plan on using this (since we have a rack & pinion setup) but I don't think they even make this for our R50's, or any R&P setup at that (or IFS even). Jose

If you get the glass hinges off a pathy that has the spoiler. Just check your local junkyard. Oh snap! Just realized I made a year with the forums today!! Woot for me!

You can't fit 32's? I got 31's on my stock Pathy, and most people here who have a lift have 32's on theirs. What tire do you have and what lift are you using? (sorry to stray a little off-topic Ty!) Jose

Wow. Sounds like you've done your math! Can't wait to here the test review!

Bad@$$ indeed. Could you explain the rear spacers a little bit more? I mean,how wide is the spacer itself (Inside diameter is mainly my concern). And why did you weld on spring bits to the bottom? Thanks! Jose

But wouldn't that restrict airflow way too much?