180sx

Looks pretty Good. Are you gonna fully weld them on, or leave them just bolted? Also, how many attatchment points are the sliders gonna have?

It's ok. functionality is always high on my list. My buddy is making a snorkel out of metal. Its welded to the fender. I can't wait till its done! Its gonna look so stupid and badass at the same time.

This snorkel seems to suck (censored) at that price! Can we say PVC? Jose Edit: have to remember the children!

Dude...You suck. An R50 is an R50, whether it be a Pathfinder or QX4. Same exact thing. Such as the old Honda Passports and Isuzu Rodeos were the exact same thing. Or the Suzuki Sidekick and Geo Metro's were the same. Or how the Camaro and Firebirds are the same. Or how Chevy Trucks and GM trucks are the same. Or how the Dodge Stealth and Mitsubishi 3000GT are the same. Dude, I could go on and on. Get your head out of your...(deep breathe...). Jose

The quest alternator can, but with a modification i believe. Look into the how-to section, i believe there is a write up in there.

Why 4" spacers? Since you got 4" up front, why not do 3.5 or 3.75 to help level the truck out?

struts shocls are a matter of preference. But most prefer KYB struts. As for the shocks. Thats for you to look into.

awesomeness!! Now that i have a good idea, i can focus on the steering problem...(which i'm gonn do differ from you. Not because i can't, but to see if there is a way to do it without welding...) Looking forward to see how you do the rear (that one has me stumped. But i guess if i actually took the spring off and looked it might be obvious). Jose

And an SFD originator speaks! anyway, this is great. I am a little confused. So you cut 8.5* on both ends. but not at 90* to the vehicle or in line with it, but at a 45* relationship to the truck itself. Is that right? I think I get it. Instead of cutting 12* and 5* separatly, you just combined them at a point? Maybe i'm confusing myself... Jose

So how did you go about getting the angle? I mean did you cut the angle at the top or bottom? Did you cut 12* first, then cut 5* after on the same side? I'm just curious to get as much info, as i don't have the resources to do this multiple times in trail and error (that's what you are for, right? haha). This thing is looking good!! But your pathy really needs a good wash! haha. Jose

Coolness. That looks great! Although I'm gonna have to find another way of doing the steering (i don't have access to a welder at all times).

You're gonna make us wait? Aww man... Jose

what do you mean hollow? is it like metal clatering?

awesome! looks good bro. do you plan on welding the blocks to the frame? or are they snug enough on the bolts that you don't think they'll move while driving day to day?

Yea I want to hear more about this! What I really want to see is the steering spacer you put in. And the rear setup. I'm trying to figure out what to do with that. I'm having plates cut out already for the strut spacers (3/8" steel) and welding in a 4" tube between them (I'm going with an 11* angle). I also have the lift blocks at a frends house (well, there still long square tubing, 2x4 and 3x4, just need to be cut to length). Now I need to figure the rear and steering. So keep us updated! I'll do the same when I get my stuff at my house. My problem is this is my DD... Jose

Do those really bolt into ours??!?! Or is it just for you W/D21 guys? We R50 people are always left out.

It really depends on the size tire you got, which you didn't mention. You 'might' need spacers, but I doubt it. And the spacers are for the front only. Jose

I can't pull up the file..damn it!

Its all the same. Only thing different are the fender flares/mud flaps (and calipers as you mentioned). Are you looking at the 4 spoke X wheels? If so, the only real way to tell would be to put it on (I haven't heard of anyone who has put the 4 spokes on their R50). But if the SC X wheels fit, so should the regulars. And since they are 16", they should clear the brakes fine ("should" is a key word, as not all 16" rims will clear due to different inside design). Jose

This is what Lax said about the SC X wheels: Year: 1997 Lift: 2 inch AC coils and one inch spacer Wheel:Xterra Supercharged wheels, 17x8 unknown backspacing Tires: BFG Rugged Trail T/A 265/65R17 Notes:Needed 1.5" wheel spacers to prevent rubbing the front skid plate and the strut while turning at full lock Photo: post wheel spacers... This is the linked to the PINNED topic. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19867 Jose

EVERYTHING! YOU MUST CHANGE YOUR WHOLE PATHFINDER!!! AHHH!! No, just regular stuff as usual. If you have not changed your water pump and timing belt since 90K, I would start with that. Check your distributor for excessive wear. Check your plugs to see if they need to be changed. If you haven't changed your diff fluid and trans oil in over 15K, I would do that too. Also, getting some test strips to test your brake fluid would be a good idea. If you havent changed your fuel filter, that too should be addressed. Other than that your normal routine things. Jose

Why? Are you gonna be bogging? The only reason I would see the need. Other wise it would just look cool in a truck. I wouldn't do it. But it's free, so that would make me want to do it. Decisions...

31s would be the biggest RECOMMENDED tire to use.

Just not put out there as an off road vehicle. I wonder why Calmini wasted their time making a 5' lift for them when nobody really asked for it. yet, theres tons of people who want something for their R50's and they give us a blind eye!

Yup, like I stated, 2" would be the biggest size you want to run. And thats becuase of the scavaging effects. You want that velocity pull on the exhaust side. this also helps pull in more air from the intake side. More air equals more power! It also helps make the air/fuel mixture more clean, which burns easier, which equals more power! It may also lean it out just a tick, Which may let you advance the timing a bit, which could be even more power! Don't chain reactions make you want to scream in joy! Jose