k9sar

I usually stop to shift into 4wd.... unles I'm heading into something in 2wd and suddenly realize that I'm not gonna make it through in 2wd and if I stop... I'm sunk. Slam 'er into 4 and floor it

another satisfied customer. congrats!

check the connector on the MAF. A known source of issues

PULL YOUR CODES MAN!!!! SHEESH!!!

you can break the bead on a tire by lowering your truck onto it aftr you have the tire off. I needed to do this after I got a lot of debris on my bead following an offroad trip. about 45% of the bead was leaking and the tire would drop to about 15 pounds of pressure. After popping the bead and cleaning out all the crap, I reseated it and reinflated and no leaks. I didn't even have/get to use the lighter fluid trick to reseat it (and that makes me sad).

POHO x 3

HAHAHAHA I love it

there's one particular one on top of the tranny that is a PITA to get at unless you're willing to get shoulder deep into it from underneath. My only suggestion for this job is to make sure you ahve an ample supply of extensions and a couple u-joints for your socket set

you should have a key fob for the keyless entry/alarm. You can do an ebay search on G57NTX318 which is the FCC ID for it. I picked up one for 12 and then never used it as I was able to fix my old one. The ones from 93 thru 95 are the same so the one from Ghostpath should work. Programming instructions are posted. I do not have a spare owners manual but there are FSM's available for download. (probably an owners manual too but I have to take a few minutes to hack the path to get to it) The settings on the alarm are OFF (obvious), Impact Only which I never use and On which will make more noise than a cheap porn actress. You have passive arming in that, if the alarm is not OFF, you can lock all your doors and close them and about 30 seconds later, the system will arm (good to know if you get an insurance discount for having a passive arming system). If you open the door when the alarm is activated, you have a few seconds to get the key in the ignition before all hell breaks loose. I currently have the 94FSM hosted and the 95 is just a supplimental document to the 94. If youa re interested, PM me and I'll let you know where it is or, if you have a slow connection, I can burn a CD and snail-mail it for a few dollars to cover postage. Until you get a key fob, leave the alarm on, activate it by locking all doors and shutting them (watch the little light for 30 sec... it'll blink fast while it is preparing to arm). After 30 sec or so, the lights should flash once and a short beep should be heard. The alarm light will then blink slowly (it's armed). To get into it, all you need to do is open the door, put the key int he ignition and turn it on (not even start it). No need to monkey with the switch. The alarm will remain inactive until it is armed again. Only problem is if you go to load sh!t into the back and unlock/open the hatch first. You will trigger the alarm and then need to go unlock the door and get the key in while everyone looks at you.

there is an access plate that you need to remove. Take a look at a real FSM and it will help. The 95 FSM was just an update to the 94 and I don;t have it hosted right now but grab this 1994_Full_FSM

My suggestion is... if it's gonna be a wheelin truck... cover the rust with dirt

and there should be a short antenna wire coming out of it

the 92 hardbody SE came in a 2wd and a 4wd version The standard features for the 2wd are: Bucket Seats Chrome Step Bumper Power Brakes Jump Seat(s) Tinted Glass 3.0L V6 SOHC 12V FI Engine 14 Inch Wheels 5-Speed Manual Transmission Clock Tachometer Chrome Wheels Cloth Seats Cruise Control Power Steering Tilt Steering Wheel Intermittent Windshield Wipers Bed Liner Manual Horizontal Sliding Rear Window Optional Equipment 4-Speed Automatic Transmission AM/FM/Cassette Audio System Air Conditioning Alloy Wheels Power Door Locks Power Exterior Mirrors Power Windows Sunroof The 4WD version had the following standard: Bucket Seats Chrome Step Bumper Power Brakes Jump Seat(s) Tinted Glass 3.0L V6 SOHC 12V FI Engine 15 Inch Wheels 5-Speed Manual Transmission Automatic Locking Hubs Chrome Wheels Rear-Wheel ABS Cloth Seats Cruise Control Power Steering Tilt Steering Wheel Bed Liner Optional equipment: 4-Speed Automatic Transmission AM/FM/Cassette Audio System AM/FM/Cassette/CD Audio System Air Conditioning Alloy Wheels Limited Slip Differential Power Door Locks Power Exterior Mirrors Power Windows Sunroof When there is keyless entry, they usually call it that (for instance, the 95 SE pathy)

move along now... nothing to see here

smurfs

since the wire from the connector on the MAF goes up instead of out the side, mine was being wiggled by making contact with the underside of the hood. Intermittent but I found out by pounding on the hood one day and it cleared up. Wondering what the hell I did, I opened it and looked for what could be affected by hitting the hood. There she was. I grabbed the wire and it gagged and choked. I have since rebuilt the connector with the wires coming out horizontally and no more problems. As far as the gas smell, take a look at the small hose that connects the two fuel rails. That is notorious for leakage over time. Have someone start it as you look. If it's leaking, you'll see wet on the hose while the fuel pressure is up and the engine is cold.

meh! what do you expect from a canadan? sheesh!

great news. Glad you gound the culprit

Mine have done the same thing. I had to wait for summer before I had any shot of pressing it back in. Still doesn't hold great so my next step is to pull it out, clean everything, warm it up and glue it in place with some nice black RTV. I believe this was your next step if yours had not held in place.

knock sensor indication is probably secondary to the O2 sensor problem. Bad O2 causes bad mixture causes knocking causes pickup by knock sensor. Resetting the codes should make it run better unless it's a hard failure of the O2.

if no codes, check your MAF connector (wiggle it while someone tries to keep it running)

hmmm... I never thought about that. much longer path to go before the oil gets to the cams. might be a bad thing. Maybe I'll put a sag in the line to keep oil close to the 'out' so even if it's shoving air, there'll at least be a blurp of oil onto the rockers when she starts.