k9sar

I use the big green bottle... Castrol HM 5w30 for my truck 10w40 for my van and 20w50 for my rice burner that had a bit of an oil leak

check the FSM page EF & EC 108 ( real page 280 in the 94 FSM) it runs through the diagnostic for code 51

perhaps a TPS. IF the ECU thinks you are throttled different than you really are, it may be leaning it out or flooding it. Just a thought.

HOLY CRAP!!! WE'RE DOOMED!

once it's open, get in there and clean and lube the entire mechanism... work the mechanics for awhile and make sure everything moves freely.

even if the hood release works, the hood does not fly up. That's a built in safety feature and why you then need to go around front and reach under it for the release lever. you should be fine driving home. You may even get it to lift a bit so you can open it when you get there.

crappy idle and stalling sounds like the MAF connection is loose or a broken wire. Same problem on my 95. The wire from the connector on top of the MAF was actually hitting the underside of the hood and flexing when I would hit bumps and cause it to crap-out. My dodge van had a problem stalling on decelleration or at idle. Under power, it was fine. It was the idle-air-control valve. my 2 cents

I always tell them to hand-torque my lug nuts. In the past, when the tire center screwed them up, I took it back and said 'fix it, you f'd it up". They have a large supply of replacement studs in the shop cause their mechanics are morons.

ignition switch?

burn the f-ing place to the ground

no, really? I couldn't imagine

awesome. glad it was an easy solution and not one of those long diagnostic nightmares that we get in here sometimes.

Don't be a stranger now that your issue has been cleared up. We would love for you to stick around on the boards.

check your fusable link (at pos cable off battery) and make sure it's not broken or dissolved Similar problem

definate on the crow-foot wrench. Already using this as an excuse to buy a set. Dremel with the small brush is a good idea. I should be able to get at that through the wheel well. Would do the remainder of the work from there except for the rigid hoses in the way. This weekend... rear brakes, finish the relo kit, cupholder (maybe) and perhaps the parking brake repair.

is this the only time it has happened? I have only heard of a similar thing once and it was a bad wire but the windows would activate when they would hit a bump in the road

the kit is a Transdapt 1213 dual filter kit. Further investigation is as follows: When I hit the 2 turn stop putting the adapter to the block, it will allow me to continue to turn for 1/8 to 1/4 turn but it is very difficult and a bitch to get back off. Since the design of these things is to allow you to thread something on that tightens against the block and not with the threads, I paid very close attention to any looseness or wobble while threading things together. When threading the new nipple into both the adapter and oil filter, it was not tight on the threads and there was a noticable wobble (not much, but there) between the pieces. When I screwed the oil filter onto the block nipple, about 2 or 3 turns had a slight wobble but then it turned tighter. Not enough to stop it but the wobble was gone and I could no longer 'spin' the filter. 4 or 5 turns later, it loosened up again and I could spin the filter to the block. That tells me that there is some buildup on the threads on the block nipple. Of course, these are VERY EASY TO GET TO (yea, right). I'm thinking of 2 solutions... try to get a wire brush down to clean the block nipple while beating my knuckles against the starter (that's now full of oil) or raising a small burr on my old oil filter and using that like a die to clean the deposits from the threads on the nipple. If the adapter was made of steel, I'd just horse it on and be done. Aluminum however, is less forgiving.

since the conversation turned to CA emissions, I wanted to jump back and address this... The altenator generates voltage and current based on it's build (rotor, windings, etc). There is a voltage regulator that's controlled by the ECU that controls the amount of voltage that circulates through the system. It does this by sensing the output of the rectifier or diodode bridge (the part that converts the AC to DC), determines the output necessary and allows more energy to flow in the rotor coil (the inner moving one), creating more energy in the stator coils (the stationary ones). Any additional 'load' introduced by adding energy into this system is negligable compared to the load on the engine that is present just to turn the altenator. Unlike the AC compressor, the altenator does not have a clutch that engages and disengages it as needed. Drawing more current will only have the effect of making the regulator open it's gates a little more to keep the required level of power back to the battery.

So I finally get around to installing my dual oil filter relo kit, Got the oil drained, dumped the existing filter all over the starter (as usual), built a bracket, modified a connector rack to fit my design, etc. Went to do the final install and the adapter that fits onto the block will turn about 2 rotations before not going any further. I can screw the remote nipple into the adapter, I can screw the remote nipple into the new oil filter, I can screw the new oil filter onto the block, there is no reason why the adapter shouldn't screw onto the block. It is not cross threaded. I'm guessing that the tolerance in the threads is just a hair too smalla nd the cast aluminum adapter binds on the threads. Any suggestions on how to open the threads a bit if I don't have a tap that big? I thought... Oh, I'll just screw one of the new nipples into it and that will make it fit... but the nipple screws in fine. DAMN! pictures to follow after I solve the issue and finish the install.

works on headlight lenses that are cloudy too (like my wife's van)

first suggestion... switch to FM ... sorry, had to be said You can't just get a new stereo and hook into your existing wires. If you get a new unit, you should run new wires to the speakers so you bypass the amps hiding at the back of the truck.

both my engines actually have one. I saw one on the junker at the u-pull-it too. That wasn't the problem btw. I ended up rplacing the TPS and the O2. Also found a wire harness against the downpipe on the passenger side. That was probably causing my tranny shift problems too.

and if you're a cheapskate... buy one at walmart... use it... then return it (but keep it clean and nice).

I'd say he's smoking something cause I couldn't find that TSB in any of my files and I wonder how a 1993 TSB would be issued on a 94 model. Problem is that he is an authority on the mechanical aspect of this stuff so I dare not doubt him

around here, all the pathys in the junkyard were driven by people who ran into stuff. Back end is always in great shape (kinda like Pezzy's) but the front needs quite a bit of TLC. This is why I am STILL looking for a replacement bumper. I'll look and see if any hitches on the oens here but I bought mine at u-haul and put it on myself. failry cheap