k9sar

I can't believe nobody chimed in suggesting that you were low on blinker fluid. strange that the hazards work and not the blinkers... tells me it's not a wiring issue. Perhaps a relay gone bad? Have you checked the electrical diagrams and looked for points of failure?

After I tore mine up, I returned it and got a new set. told them it MUST have been defective if that much damage occurred by compressing one spring. No questions asked... they simply handed me a new box. Of course, for 10 bucka (what I paid for mine on sale), they are basically throw-away.

it pains me to hear of anyone "dropping it off to be taken care of" yes. the area around the e-brake is not sealed well. You can pull the console and stuff and try to pack it with insulation but the bottom line is that the e-brake is a mechanical lever that needs a linkage going through the floor. latch problem. search and you will find solutions I had to open the door panel and get int here wioth some spray silicone lubricant to loosen up the linkages. The mechanism that locks all the doors if you push the post down is the culprit. The post is not coming up fully due to tight or possibly broken linkages and it is triggering the lock mechanism (or just never fully unlocking) It's easy to do yourself. measure the space in front of your radiator to check the thickness. Teh coolers just harpoon mount through the radiator and you run the hoses to the fittings where it would lead into the original radiator. You will need to run a jumper hose to connect the in and out ports of the in-rad cooler just to keep residual fluid from dripping out. A tranny shop should be able to do this for you as well. I can take pics of mine if you need.

x3. you also will light it up if you throw a v-belt (been there too). and, being on my 3rd tranny... put in an aux cooler and bypass the in-rad one.

I smeared mine with some silicone grease. works great unless it decides to freeze but I doubt that is due to the grease. First time I lubed it I used WD40 (or similar) Too thin and wore off too quickly. Modification coming soon is to put a cutoff switch on the antenna motor so I can interrupt the electric by hitting a switch on the dash (grabbed a couple from the junkyard that will fi the blanks by the emergency blinker switch). Benefit of this will be to be able to leave the antenna up in the winter when it freezes so I don't tear up the teeth again. Couls also be used to keep the antenna down (or part way) for wheeling through brush or going through a car wash and still being able to listen to the radio. I'll post pics of the process when I do it.

I destroyed a set of the harbor freight ones when I did my lift. make sur eyou throw a little grease or oil on the threads before using them.

I have a few big coffee cans and throw everything in them.

nothing fancy here. manifold removed, throw in a USPS flat rate box, stuff with old newspaper and hand it off to the mailman. As long as it's in the lower 48, it goes priority mail. Your call.

mine aren't warped (though I am). Where are you located? I'm sure I could provide you a terrific deal. edit: It's off a 95 SE that only had 80k on it when I spun a main bearing and trashed the crank.

check ebay. I have the manuals for 94 thru current (thanks to Nissan being very predictable) but I don't know how much changed from 93 to 94.

I've used 2 different things. First was Color-back car polish (the black version). Not sure if it's avaialble anymore but it's car polish with pigment added. Works freat on scratches too. Second thing I did was used some black RTV. Put a little on a rag and wipe it in. Since it's silicone rubber, it cures with a nice protective coating. Shiny black and lasts for a long time. Discovered this one by glueing in the window trim around my cargo area side windows. Got a little on the plastic itself and, when I went to scrub it off, saw that it looked better than new so I wiped down the entire trim with the silicone.

oops... sorry. when I read the topic I thought it was a thread about Pezzy

try the tubing trick if you don't have a mechanics stethescope. Easy to pinpoint which stud is broken or where leak is.

I threw a bosch in mine and it's fine. Came with a universal connector thingie. Advanceautoparts.com for $62

are you sure it is the lifters? an broken exhaust manifold bolt causes a similar pecking noise.

get a 3 foot piece of 5/8 or 1/2 inch hose. shove one end in your ear, crawl under the truck and probe around with the other end. poor man's stethescope but it works great for pinpointing noises

apparently, this was my very first post in the forums. What was yours?

I've gotten mine to 100 but I sprouted a few grey hairs when I did. She was a bit loose and all I could think of was my friend who rolled their durango trying to see how fast they could go.

I wouldn't think that would work. ATF isn't that thin but I guess the composition is a solvent not a thinner. Kerosene would work great but I don't wanna drive a bomb

The wife's van just started a loud squeek from inside the valve cover. bad news. Tapping is expected and usually a lifter but a squeek is either a very lost mouse or an oil starved ebaring on the cam. Before it gets worse and before I have to tear the top of the engine apart, I'm going to assume that some sludge is blocking the oil hole for the bearing. Normal oil change additives don't seem to work very well so I am looking for trusted and effective suggestions. Some I have read have been: a qt of ATF added to the oil. a liter of diesel fuel (but don't drive it) mineral oil and alcohol I need to do this fast before it gets worse. thanks

getting rid of it will cause your ECU to have issues.

post a pic just to be clear... I may have spares

I think when my old engine got done, it was something like 1200 bucks. Another reason I do sh!t myself now

I also found that you can actually see the #6 plug through a gap in the intake if you get in the correct twisted position

As long as you don't adjust your tie-rods... and the replacement centerlink is the same length as the old, the alignment should be unaffected. Easy to change as logn as you are willing to beat out your ball/swivel joints. I NEVER use a picklefork cause it can ruin the greasecaps. I NEVER smack the threads with a hammer to drive it out. I never use a seperator either simply because putting a small sledge behind the joint and hitting the other side with a hammer will knock it loose. It may take a few good whacks but it works.