Precise1

It seems like a few things are possible. You may have an intermittent short or poor connection that someone moving wires about might have 'improved', the transmission might have needed a flush/new/proper fluid badly, and flushing the tranny might have removed blockage from the cooler/pathways allowing the tranny to run cooler. Hard to tell at this point... My recommendations for everyone with an auto tranny is put in some type of in line filter and a temp gauge. Watching the temp gauge will probably make you install an after market cooler in some configuration... B

Remember, you risk overheating your fuel pump as well, it is the gas that cools it. I would consider your test conclusive and move on. I'm not sure about the sediment as I'm not familiar with the shape inside of the tank, and besides, that is what the fuel filter is for. While it can be nice to know how far you can go, unless I'm on a trip or have no choice, I just fill it back up at 1/4 tank. Less sticker shock and that way in case of an emergency, I always have at least a 1/4 tank of gas. B

They are probably crapped up from all the misfiring. I'd clear the code and drive the car to see if they burn off a bit once heated a few times, then see if the code keeps coming back. I've never heard of a cat cleaner, so the only other option would be to replace it (them) and that would be pricey... B

Check the ECU for codes first, before you push it off of a cliff. That and check all connectors as well, try moving them when it is running to see if there is a change. It sounds like something is not hooked up right or has failed... B

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Yeah, I'm sure that helped! Good job, I'm glad you got it together and working fine. B

When it 'slips out of gear', is the drive shaft turning? B

This sounds like a job for.... Alkorahil!! B

It is inside of the radiator, on the bottom. You could try back flushing it, maybe it is clogged and leaking at the hose clamps. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31647-transmission-cooler-cleaning/?hl=clean&do=findComment&comment=597223 B

You can always grind down the strut perch 1/4" or so if it is too close. Drill a couple of holes at the inside diameter next to the grind and put in heavy duty cable ties as keepers. Agreed, 1/2 of the reason I support going for the 33" if possibly. Do you plan to run 10.5 or 12.5" wide tires? You really can't get some used tire mounted on a rim for fitment? B

I suspect 'come' or 'hand' were the key search words... B

Agreed, not a bad job unless it is rusted in the pipe. Take a look at the exhaust pipe between the Y and the cat for the sensor and see what it looks like. Penetrant or other tricks may be in order... You have choices from stock OEM (recommended if affordable) down to generic splice in types that some people have had issues with. Bosch and NGK seem to be reliable from my expereince and memory. B

Ok, sounds like a hose is disconnected or severed. You need to remove the skid plate via the 10mm hex head bolts on the underneath, on the cross members. Hopefully you don't live in a salt state or these bolts may break. There are two hoses going from the transmission, out from underneath the motor on the front passenger side that go into the bottom of the radiator. Can you see anything amiss? 10mm socket/wrench, rags and flashlight recommended. B

I have unfarted your brain... B

I simply don't run tires anymore. Too much hassle and BS with them! Tank tracks or I stay at home! Do you want this in the Garage or R50 section instead? My opinion is to test fit if possible. I'm guessing you will have these tires for a long time, so it might be worth the trouble. Find someone with tires you can borrow? Bribe a tire guy to stay late? I think they will work because I have mounted 31" tires with similar rims on a sagged, stock R50 and the only time it rubbed was at full turn in reverse. Hard to tell though, and who wants tires that grind? I'd shoot for the 33" though. The VG33 should pull them ok (ever check the gearing?), you can go with a narrower profile (lighter, less rolling friction) and they are more common in case of a need to scrounge for a replacement. Been there once... B

Do you want me to put this in the Classifieds/Parts Wanted section? I know you can get all the parts here! At the local yards, often a tranny is removed and the vehicle is always suspended, so getting to an anchoring arm or two shouldn't be terribly hard. B

x2 Rather than guess, see what it tells you first, then you might have a direction... B

Exactly. If it feels smooth, you should be able to just repack with high temp wheel bearing grease, and preload properly. To tight, they will burn up and too loose they will brinell. New bearings will settle and wear in, so I always re-check them after some driving (50-100 miles). One trick is to feel the wheel hub after driving for a bit without heavy braking. If the hub is warm the bearings are too tight or worn and if the rim is warm, the brakes are dragging and might need slide pins cleaned and to be bled. B

What a mess! Thanks for documenting it though, we can always use more info about these trannys. Make sure that you have proper flow through the stock radiator cooler, sometimes they clog. Many of us run after market cookers to avoid this or a combo of filters and tranny temp gauges so you can reduce likelyhood of insufficient cooling and monitor things. B

A quick, easy thing to check is the connections, terminals, clamps, wires, ground points, alty connections, etc. Sounds like something is heating up and engaging better... B

For this? Possibly, if it is sending out messed up EC data but this isn't a normal failure. I'd check things like timing, ignition and even fuel delivery/injectors first since most of that should be free. You can get a wrecking yard ECU to swap in as well. You have to get a proper match (year and trim) and there is a slight risk that it has issues as well, but much less expensive than buying a new ECU. B

This, and the bushings are what (should hold) holds the rod in place. We have the information in a thread here on specifically what size/part number bearing race people have used but I don't recall from memory. If you can't find it via search, let me know, and I will. Holy Crap cvdloc! You didn't notice there might be something wrong before that point? B

I'd say run your VIN by Rob Lacy at FactoryNissanParts.com and really determine which ones/what range you want to run. I know there are specific types for different years, but I don't think I've ever seen a comprehensive table overing all years. B

Agreed, it shouldn't fail so soon. Make sure you determine the failure root cause as well. Yeah, I hear you. A downed daily driver is never fun and neither is redoing work that should have lasted. Combine the two and it sucks... B

That doesn't look good, but at least it is small pieces. What happened to the ATF though? B