Precise1

As a mental relative, all I can say is PM or Email Mr Jim about where/how to donate the $, and PM DJ Dank for stickers, he is doing another run of them. Make sure to thank him for all of us. As for the flier bit, I'm all for that as long as it is done tastefully. I have a version nearly done, but been focused on other issues. I'll post it when complete. B

Ok, considered... Still, keep it clean and fun. Damn funny pict by the way !! B

Drums are generally larger diameter than disks at the contact point. This lessens the the binding force required to slow down. The contact point is the out side rim, horizontal to the rotation. That allows a lot of surface area far awar from the bearings to help with cooling. Other than ambient temp of air inside the drum and that of the shoes, the only way heat can travel to the bearing hub is through the outer face of the drum, down to the center, and into the hub where the drum bolts on. Transfering heat between two different metal objects creates a loss also. From there, what is left goes to warming the hub, bearings and grease. Disks on the othe hand are generally smaller in diameter so require greater pressure (hence friction and HEAT) for the same stopping effect. The vertical contact plane is directly attached to the hub housing which allows much greater thermal conductivity due to increased heat, shorter distance and homogenous material. Thats just a natty break down but it should suffice... B

To "chuck" also means to hold something tightly and/or true radially. Trust me. On that note, shut up V6. You are goading and being insulting. Stop. Posts don't require that crap, nor need to bleed attitude from one to the other. Vengeful, feel free to describe how you 'chucked it' and ignore the rest. Thanks. B

I'd be suprised if it was just 2 degrees on the timing, but it couldn't hurt to have it set right. I'm assuming they did that while they were there ?? Was that 2 degrees advanced or retarded ? B

Kicked to the curb... Now play nice boys !! B

WRONG !!!! lets go over that again... WRONG !!!! Disk brake grease has higher viscosity at higher temperatures. Disk brakes warm the hubs and bearings quite a bit more. Just thinking of the design explains this. If you don't think your wheel bearings need grease, use drum brake grease on disk brakes. The grease will thin and flow off of the races. Tell me how long the bearings last... Then there is waterproof bearing grease, etc... All greases are not equal. Just like WD-40 is not a penetrant or lasting lubricant !! Sorry, one of my personal pet peeves... B

Cool, good job ! Yeah, I'm a big fan of the square ones.... Odds are that the drill tip is not in your exhaust ports, don't worry. Timing belt on the 94-95's are every 105k. I highly recommend changing it on schedule, or if you have no idea when it was done last. Sorry, haven't done one yet so I'm not much help there. Talk to me in another 100k... : I hear the cam seals are a good thing to replace 'while you are there'. Search for it, there have abeen a few recent threads with good info... B

Hey V, do you want to post this as an independant write up, makes sense to me... I can split it off if you want. B

Yeah... Regardless, at least paint or texture the mount. A sand blaster or even random orbital sander would do wonders ! And take the damn barcode off of it... B

I just have to chuckle... You should try the VG30 if you think thats slow !! It's a step up from the Z24 that I had, therefore I think it's just fine. No real top end basically stock and doggish past 3rd gear but then I don't see the point in top end for a 4x4 SUV. Well, other than towing... If I want to go fast, I get on 2 wheels. B

Bah, just make some slip fit graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings... Pretty good set up for down and dirty. Just dont roll or crash with that set up in place or it could get ugly... B

Here is a link to some drills that will drill out a bolt extractor. Thats what you will probably have to do. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH Definitely keep soaking the studs with penetrant. Have you tried using a torch on them ? Again, if you are using the left hand tapered spiral 'ezy-out' style, those are the weakest and most brittle. I do not recommend them for this job. You are just going to have to be patient and finess the studs out. I agree that paying $500 is rediculous. Take a break if you start to get mad, it wont help at all... Good luck, and post if you have other questions, etc. B

I have not heard anything other than the original write up. I believe that it can work somewhat, depending on how dirty it is and how well you clean it. I think the only way to perfect the method is to be careful... B

I third the header suggestion. Also, remove anything that contributes weight and is not totally necessary... Spare, spare mount, all seats other than the drivers side, any tools and parts, stereo, grill guard, rock bars, skid plates, extra lights, roof rack, etc. You could even pull out the transfer case, front driveshaft, diff, CV's etc... B

I wouldn't put off the timing belt... These are interference motors, and several members have trashed their motors lately due to this. B

Yep, the spark has to get to the plugs, and the plugs need to fire well. Glad you got such an easy response !! What plugs and wires did you use ? B

Well, as I understand it, when manual hubs are engaged, the CV shafts turn, hence the front Diff and drive shaft ? Regardless, is causes wear when you are not using it. My take is for the weekend warrior to leave the auto hubs and enjoy the convenience, while the serious trail driver installs manuals for the reliability/durability. B

Hey now, the first post was a direct link to the same topic just so recently churned, again. No T-bars mentioned here so shut up Filthy !! Coydad, ignore the banter, it's just that sometimes identical questions are posted and it is preferred than a link to a recent post is provided. The Search function can help sometimes, but I highly recommend the Advanced functions and Help so you dont have to wade through MBs of stuff. Don't be shy about asking questions either, we may be able to help... B

LOL, pretty much... Thanks for the link FL. B

I'd lean towards the Junk Yard VG3.0 motor with 80k on it for $850, Jim... Seems like the easiest, cheapest way to get back on the road. B

Nice try at the save V6, but thats not exactly helpful, is it ? Especially that you did not mention it along with the yes answer... B

Heavy duty front end parts will do you quite well for a while. As I have some front end frame damage, my stock steering set up is not good nor can be fixed for less than a SAS. Personally, I'm waiting on Calmini's package, as I dont want to do all the leg work myself. I don't know the axle sizes that are appropriate. Yes, you can upgrade to disk rear brakes. Yes, swapping axles is required. Do a search for it in the last 90 days. No, I have never blown an adjuster out of a shoe, but I'm not sure what you are doing... B

Just glad you are doing better !! It seems you are going where few of us know (I certainly dont). Keep us informed please ? B

Really sucked this morning... seems better now, almost 'normal'. Don't really want to get into your relative speed... B