Precise1

Man, that add would make ME confident it's what I need... B

Well, I changed the clutch, which is pretty much removing tranny... It's not that bad of a job, you just need some space, some time and the right tools. Do you want a break down of things to do and not to do + tool list ?? Lemme know... B

zonian, please, use some punctuation or capitals; it gives me a headache... You drain the rear differential by unscrewing the drain plug (1/2" ratshet will work fine) on the bottom. The clever ones remove the fill plug (the higher of the 2) first, thereby insuring that they don't screw themselves. unccp, no big chunks is good, and the grinding of gears 1% of the time could be bad/old fluid, synchro problems or operator error... Regardless, new fluid rarely hurts, and these trannys are known to last. If it gets to be about 10% within 10,000 miles then yes, I'd start looking for rebuild kit or shop, whatever is more appropriate. Ever bleed the clutch line or check system ? B

As MZ said... Still, $21,000 takes a long time to build up in rent. Something seems fishy here. Were I the landlord and someone was $5K behind, I'd be on their ass or writing the eviction notice... Still, we are back to you not HAVING to dump the truck or parts, just having patience. It is your choice, but I think you can deal with the issues without just giving up. We can't do the work for you, but there are plenty of poeple that will tell you what you don't know. Have the Pathy towed home. You can push it 100 feet every week to keep it from getting towed while you work on it. Virtually all automotive work I've done in the last 9 years was without a garage). Even if you do plan to sell it off, do it organised and inteligently so you recoupe as much as possible (for the next one). Think about it. B

Happy B-day Bud !! You have the right attitude, it always works out one way or another. Just take it 1 step at a time and be flexible. I'll have a beer for you... *gulp* *gulp* *gulp* B

Well said MZ. Seems like this chap owes you some cash... Offer to take his tools for repayment. You can always just park the truck for a little while till you get things sorted out. Plenty of options man. I know it's disheartening, but don't jump the gun. B

Why did I read SE ?? That looks identical to mine other than the paint and lack of fender flares... :cool2: Congrats again !! B

Whatever... Kids... B

Well done !! There are many benefits to doing it yourself... B

Yes, the Revo's have generally good feedback. It just amazes me how many people drive SUV's with crappy tires until they have to use SUV capabilities, then they want to upgrade tires. Sorry, not crapping on you, just making an observation. Probably more about how people prepare for issues after the fact... B

Suggestions ?? Yeah, looks great as it is. Save the $ for mods, repairs, upgrades, insurance or partying... Why dump the $ for paint in a truck worth $5k on a good day ?? Sorry to be the bummer, but it just doesn't seem to be a value added approach. B

Ok, so it was no suprise that the CV failed, and you just drowned the starter. A Can of WD-40 will serve you well... You are welcome, but if you knew all that, why did you invite me to waste my time ?? Sorry, I read that as you had replaced the T-stat. I dont have enough info to say yes, the T-stat is 'toast'. Test the fan clutch before you think, and it's not the H20 pump. Same with the starter... Sheesh ! B

Absolutely !!! Also, the X-TB, I mean Wifey will like the se options... Congrats !! B

I'm sure that was a joke... That has to be a joke... You are joking !! B

LOL, it almost sounds like I've been there a few times... But I didn't kill it, I forgot this... Like MZ said, been wheeling ?? Your CV's shouldn't turn if you are not in 4WD, therefore no welding. That is unless your auto hubs are not disingaged. That would probably be due to lack of maintenence or maybe damaged parts. Lift up the front of the truck (in 2WD) and spin the front wheels. If the CV's turn, there is an issue with the hubs. They aren't too hard to deal with, but we'll wait for feedback before I post a link as to what to do. B

No, as k9sar pointed out, other than the 'pigtail'. The springs are very close with the outside diameter, coil pitch and coil diameter. The lift comes mainly from the extra length. You generally need to compress the springs to take them out of the seats (unless you undo the shocks, pan hard rod, ebrake line, have a body lift and jack the frame up till the axle leaves the ground), so the taller springs push it up more while retaining basically the same ride (but better IMO). Slick bought some replacement springs that are HD in my opinion. Not much longer but progressive so they allow less compression. This means a stiffer ride, but ideal for heavy payloads and towing. If you refer to k9sars chart and get the newest (and off the newest vehicle), largest coil spring and bend the pigtail, thats the most lift and smoothest ride you can achieve. B

I know the sound of which you speak, I wouldn't call it a hiss, but close... Regardless, yes, it's the fuel pump in some manner and mine has done it for about 2 years and 13k miles exactly the same so I doubt it is a sign that it is going out. Perhaps some may vibrate more than others ? Replacing it means you tighten it back down which is what it needed ? Slightly differnt frequence or pressure ? It is inside of a resonance well after all. I wouldn't worry about it unless you suddenly STOP hearing the noise... B Oh, could it be the return flow hose ?? The pressure regulator needs a bypass so the pump doesn't overwork and heat up... Well, at least thats the way my VW is set up.

Ok, about the starting... Is the clicking just one or kind of a click, click, click ?? The first may be a relay so check the connetions there first. A rapid clicking is usually the selinoid. This can be due to a weak battery (check first), bad connections (same symptoms, check all major battery/starter and ground- second), starter failing (whack the selinoid a few times and try again repeat a few times), remove and clean the starter with brake/electrical cleaner (mine took 2 cans and it still worked !-third) then reinstall or have it bench tested (fourth), your choice. Overheating... Is it a steady overheat regardless of anything or just when going slow ? If it's just slow, check the fan clutch. Spin it by hand, it shouldn't turn more than a 1/4-1/2 turn once you let go. All the time regardless ? How's the inside of the radiator look ?? Crusted up or clean ? Crust can seriously insulate the radiator. Did you 'burp' the radiator? Some there is a valve in the top line or on the block by the T-stat I think, I'll look it up. People have complained of getting faulty T-stats brand new. If you have a faulty one, you have no flow. People have installed a good T-stat backwards, same results. Check all of this out, I tried to list in order of easiest to hardest. Don't drive it if it keeps overheating, heads can cost you. Is the waterpump belt tight or even there ? Don't get tense or upset, just go down the list and disqualify the items one by one. Even new cars have issues, get used to dealing with them practically and it will save you a lot of grief. Whenever I get tense while wrenching, I take a break; it is totally counterproductive. Keep us informed and good luck. B

Well, the important thing is that your family is ok (I'm sure your son is/will be). Too bad about the Pathy, but you can always replace a WD21... I hope so Scott, it's not funny to have the front end out of whack (one drawback of IFS) Damn, isn't that the truth !! B

All of the above, but first, check all the connections, positive and ground all the way to the starter and at the alternator... I've had corroded/intermittent connections mess with me like this before. Good luck and give Grandma a hug. B

Ahh, yes, DD makes a big difference. I'd probably have done the same as a temp fix. Good luck !! B

Ok, I was wondering if the first were just a kit from another source... No worries Bud, I missed the 2wd the first time myself and got all excited... Whats wrong with jumping dunes ?? It's a blast; motorcycle, buggy or truck !! B

Well, while poking around looking for parts and info to fix my front end, I ran across a few items I don't think I have heard mentioned. I didn't investigate this one too much and they don't offer much info in the web site. http://www.jackit.com/nissan/nissan_pathfi....htm#pathfinder This one made me perk up !! I know it's for a Hardbody, but considering the mods I'd have to do to SAS the truck, I bet I could make his work, and the 11" of travel is nothing to sneeze at !! http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/Store_View...#33;Cat!882 Just figured I'd share the finds and see if anyone knew of them. Aww CRAP !! In my haste I failed to see that the second link was for 2WD... WTF !! Sorry... B

Fair enough, but I'd say you have little to lose at this point... B

Hmm John Boy, that seems interesting... B