Precise1

LOL, lucky bastage !!! B

I can't remember, but I do. I think that's what must make the difference... B

All that you mentioned cant hurt, and DEFINITELY a tranny cooler !! B

Thorley headers ?? $350 ?? Summit racing ?? Search ??? LOL... You want to replace all the exhaust studs with upgraded ones (which can be a pain in the buttocks) while you are there. There are several qwrite ups on this procedure. Let me know if you can't find them. B

LOL saving gas and more power are usually on opposite ends. Not necessarily though as mild driving with a better set up engine will gain MPH. Do you have to contend with smog laws where you live or will you ? Regardless... smooth tires, better intake, tune up and mellow driving will get you the best milage (not very good). Headers, better ignition and larger free flowing exhaust (ported intake helps) will give you more power and better top end. Anything else gets serious... B

MaritimeMan and I did ours at the same time. I got his 'old' GJC ones and he put in 88's modified (read bent pigtails, not cut) units. We jacked up the frame, disconnected the shocks, pan hard bar, ebrake brackets and let it all hang out. That was not enough. We still had to use the spring compressors I brought along to do the job. I'm not sure what the difference is, but there was no way they were comming out or going in by hand. Cant remember if I looked to see if the wheels were touching after axle droop (doubt both of us would miss that) but leaning on the axle one side and then the other helped so I doubt that was the case... Maybe your springs were sprung ?? I got a solid 2.5" lift minimum out of the swap and MZ got my old stock springs (still running them MZ ?) to beef up his rear end that was sagging, so they couldn't have been in bad shape... I don't understand the difference... B

Or Phoenix, AZ... B

Good idea if the batteries are compatable, but as I understand it, the EFI on the WD21's shuts down at or before 10 volts... That probably means not too long of a run time. I don't change either until they fail. Personally, I'd rather carry a spare alt than fuel pump as I have never had one go out, but have had a few alts fail. I have had fuel filter issues in a few cars so that would be good, cheap spare part to carry... For some reason, that cracks me up ! Don't question it, just enjoy it ! Do the 'regular' maintanence and call it good. My last Nissan truck ran 10 years virtually trouble free even though it was driven most the time and was used hard on many occasions. One of the reasons I bought a Pathy... B

Ahh, good catch !! That would have confused me to find the clicking side in good working order... Interesting that the other side was the cause. Thats one to remember ! B

Not necessarily GG, thats what I did and still had to pry and compress to get the JGC springs in... B

Fair enough. Baed on what you have said, flat towing a manual tranny should be fine other than maybe taking some precautions. I don't know of any changes made between 2 and 4 door models that would make a difference... B

Yep, the front tires on the tow vehicle will mess you up if you try backing up UNLESS everything is perfectly straight... And then, you can only go straight backwards and I doubt you could get much farther than 100 feet before it's all akimbo... Er, why pre 90 and not any manual tranny WD21 ? What am I missing here ?? B

Go for the 93, but you really want a 94 or 95... Better interior, dash and 105k timing belt intervals VS 60k for the other years... B

Thanks Jason for the insight and generous offer ! If you take him up on it, JJ won't jack you around. He's good peoples... B

What is the diameter of the stud ?? I'll make you a left hand carbide spade drill that will drill out the bolt extractor... PM me your address. Oh, have you tried shattering the bolt extractor ? They are usually brittle, so sometimes you can chip away at them using something pointed and hardened. B

When was the last time the autolocking hubs were disassembled, cleaned, inspected for wear or damage and relubed ? I'd guess not for a long time ? Thats where I would start. It's not too hard and only a couple of tools required (incl snap ring pliers). Your manual will give you the step by step process... B

Hey Muddy... At the top of the page in this forum there is a Diesel section. You may get better response if you post there. Good luck. B

As Red pointed out, unless it is slow and for short distances, the pathy needs to be trailered or dollied. The one time I had my pathy towed, the driver stated the same thing as the manual. I'd tend to believe it... B

LOL, 10 points for honesty... I'd advise to avoid apearance factors though, it doesn't mean crap. Best of luck with what you wind up getting, I hope it works out well. B

Ok, reality check. Handling: yes. Ride quality: yes (same thing to a point). Safety: no. You drive a vehicle within it's safe operational threshhold. If a solid axle means you don't handle as well, you drive accordingly. If you don't, mount a large cow catcher up front (the SA will carry it NP). I'm SASing due to my own stupidity (mangling the front end) and an autobody shops crappy work (straightning things 1/2 assed and repeatedly). My pathy handles like crap, rides like crap and gets pushed around by every wind and rut. Otherwise it's a 95XE with 120k that has a straight body, good interior and runs like a champ. If the front end was straight, I'd go with the L&P set up. As is I have 2 choices. Sell it as is for maybe 1/2 of what I payed not 2 years ago (not counting repairs and improvements I have done) or SAS it. While solid axles have their drawbacks, I fail to see the safety issue... Quite honestly, I'd prefer a tight solid axle set up to a loose IFS system which happens all too easily. Didn't someone total (roll) a nicely set up HB not too long ago due to steering issues and a cross wind ? How many complaints have been heard here about crappy steering and front suspension ? WD's that drift and pull all over ? Not to turn it into a pissing contest, but I'd feel better having a solid, reliable front end that is not as responsive than have a front suspension that performs well until anything other than smooth asphalt is encountered. It is a truck, and I treat it like one. B

To remove, yes, unless you want the front end to sag down to the upper travel limits of the a arms (don't try it). To torque, no.... B

Yes, loosen the front 3 bolts. My T-bars were bound until I did that, then they fell out as Casey said. Be forwarned... No need to remove the front piece unless things are rusted together. B

Bingo, thats my goal... :cool2: B

I'm glad you are ok Bud. Metal is metal and compared to life or limb, it goes no farther than that. At least you can now get the vehicle you want... I have to ask though Why the hell would you tint your tail lights ??? B

So true Red, so true... Funny, I want little other than a home, but here in Cali, I'm poor... LOL, I just heard that Sonoma county (where I live) is #3 in the nation for most expensive home ownership (cost VS income) in the US !! I knew it was bad, but not that bad !! Yes, I'm saving $ and plan to get out when the GF finished college in a year or so. Oh, about the auction... Yes, totally bogus... B