Precise1

LOL, next time just use a small nail as a scribe... B

Ditto *burp* B

LMAO V6, you are definitely in disarray !! Yeah, I have a Mossberg 500A (with pistol grip) that is a perfectly servicable shotgun. The pump action was a bit rough being made from stamped components and all, but if you strip it and take a stone to the sharp corners, etc it will work very nicely... For the ultimate conceiled carry, I have this little number in .357. It's a blast !!! I won't bore listing the others. Lets just say when the zombies come, they better bring lots of friends !! B

Ditto to Red. I wouldn't consider touching the starter before checking all the connections... Have you tested the battery ? B

Hmm, do you remember how it all goes back together ??? Good luck with the next 29 items !! B

Performance boosting pill... I have heard of many variations of these. Sadly, prolonged use causes halucinations, etc and they don't work for cars... B

I suppose so... But I have not experienced this my self. Perhaps they did not clock the universal joints on the drive train ? Maybe they forgot to tighten the tranny mount bolt... It may be nothing, I have no idea. Call the dealer. Good luck. B

Nice Rami, thats a very servicible pistol, and will last you a long time. I'm sure you will be happy with it. Congrats !! B

Implying something ?? Yes, milling and beveling the edge(s) would be simple. Only limited by machine travel or at worst, a slight blend mark. I'm not sure about the attachment though, I'll have to look when it is not pissing rain; read weeks... I doubt they would count with a serious hang up, but it would offer some protection and maybe the slickery effect could save some pannel damage. Lining the frame rails would be fairly simple also. The best way would be to have a 1/4" strip of steel that mounts to the frame, and them screw the PE onto that. Easily replacable also. You could mount the PE directly to the frame also, but that would either take a lot of drilling and tapping into the frame or it would tear off quite easily. I'm willing to design/fabricate... B

Yes, it looks fine. Actually, it looks out of place as it's the only things that doesn't look like crap... No concerns about sucking water though ? B

Damn Trainman, thats sooooooooo fugly, I'm dumbfounded. That was a just plain nasty to do to unsuspecting people !! B

Hahaha, cool !! I knew it should work out fine... To bad I couldn't see anything with that crappy video. Any damage to the mounting bolts ? I should have a garage here in a few months, so maybe I'll make a batch of them (with your corrected dimensioning, of course ) I'm sure we could figure out some pretty sensible sliders, and the UHMW PE strips could easily be replacable.... B

Cool, good work Bud... Kinda miss the tarantula stories though !! Tell you what, We'll consider you qualified for the next level when you try out that skid plate I mostly made for you... B

Pretty much ditto to MZ... Which truck has which brake set up ?? *unclear* B

*snicker* B

Buy a propane torch for $15, you will find it'll have 101 uses; lighting the BBQ for 1... B

I'm glad you got it dealt with, and I hope you won't be revisiting those studs you didn't take out. They may break from re-torqueing, or maybe it's just specific studs that get all the stress and you replaced those. Yes, room is an issue, but did you try going in fron the wheel well ? Alternator is a piece of cake. Keep up the good work. B

Hmm, bad gas is always possible. Have you filled up there before ? I'd double check the vacuum lines. Could the disconnected vacuum line unit be crapped up/malfunctioning ? MAF sensor dirty ? Wiring connectors clean and connecting ? It runs fine and only rough at idle ? Sounds like a general poking around is in order. A slight engine oil overfill shouldn't have any effect. A/T ?? Seem to remember someone having idling/shifting issues due to tranny feedback... B

T bar adjustment is pretty easy, just turning a few bolts really. If you make a big change, you will need to have it aligned... Sing out with any issues you have. http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...6545ab12cbb2ef4 B

I'm just wondering how well they hold up to a tire iron. That would be the first thing I'll try out on them when I see them... B

I have a 95 XE that had a stock suspension and was running 10.5x31" on the stock chromies when I got it. Absolutely NO trouble, trust me !! B

Um, yup, ditto, exactly, absolutely, no compromise ! I won't bother with the horror stories. B

Unless you are a cultch abuser, have more HP or do funky things with huge tires, I vote for the OE or OEM clutch (I drive a WD21). Bang for buck, I've always had good luck with them, and if I have to pull the tranny every 100-150k miles, no biggie. Yes, it's a chore, but thats a lot of driving and I know it was done right. Make sure to resurface/replace the flywheel, new clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing (I replaced the sleeve and spring for an extra $25), inspect/replace (I didn't) the pilot bushing, inspect the rear main seal on the motor and the input shaft seal. Clean out the bell housing, replace the clutch fluid, adjust the petal height and clean the slave cylinder seals. Thats a complete clutch job that will keep you on the road for a long time. B

I also run 'naked' shocks. My thought is that at least I can clean and inspect them. Same goes for struts in my book. $400 to replace rubber boots ?? NO WAY IN HADES !!! I'd just leave them alone. It shouldn't void the warranty, and do you like the way the 'new' struts ride ?? How many miles on the truck ? How many before the last ones failed ? How many miles on these so far ? How long do you plan to keep it ? You can see where I'm going... B

The front end is screwed up ! Most components are wasted, the geometery is off (so the drag and heel over is present) and the front suspension has different spring rates on either side... Fubar'd !!! SAS will only save the truck as I'm not interested in doing a frame swap, or frame off straightening. That would cost as much or more than SAS and I'd still have a stock front end. I have no prob with a little bit more tire wear but I doubt the ride would be worse than it is. No worries mws, and thanks for the input. A little more on track would be nice though... Harb, what I meant to imply is that the Pathy would not be a trail/trailer rig but used in winter and on trips. Yes, I plan to move closer to work, but Cabrio's suck in a storm, why not take the wheeler ?? B