Precise1

I'll check my manual tomorrow to see if it covers your engine... This was the case with my D720 with the Z24 motor when I sold it. Timing chain needed replacement at 160k. How many miles on yours ? It would low idle a little rough and run slightly advanced at high idle. Does the low idle timing mark jump around ? Not much of a cure but to change it. Crackle isn't a good description, but what is... Hard to diagnose without being there. B

Of course, you over torqued the sprigot flange which bound the cam ferrule causing the cam to snap... Sheesh !!! It is wierd to hear that several others have had the same issue... Question is, is it a defective batch (or factory), statistical failure in a poor design or something to do with the iming belt change... B

Nice Ryan. Thanks for the picts and description. You are a gentleman and a fishboy... B

Hey falconer, nice truck !! If you don't wheel much you probably don't need to do any modifications. A stock WD21 will pull you through a suprising amount of crap as long as it has decent tires. She'll probably take you as far as your birds want to go (in a box that is ). What kind of birds do you have anyway ? I know just enough about it to be completely ignorant, but I'm curious anyway. Congrats on dropping the rice... I've been driving a truck for 12+ years and every time I have to drive my GF's stock honda civic, I hate it !! Nothing wrong with the car, but I can't SEE ANYTHING !!! B

Maybe 32", depending on how high your ride height is/how stiff the suspension/how your wheel stops are adjusted. For 33's (trouble free), a 2-3" suspension lift and 2-3" body lift. Problem is that it will be fine until you are turning and flex hard off road. Then the tire meets the fender and proceeds to destroy it... Some people complain about frame rubbing but thats where the wheel offset and wheel stop adjusters come into play. Summary. Don't go with bigger tires unless you do suspension and body lifts. Front end upgrades are also recommended due to the increased strain. B

I've heard the afore mentioned denatured fish oil sworn by. If that doesn't work, move to a decent climate... *puts on body armor and flame suit* B

Thats the Z2.4 motor ??? Sounds like it may be pinging (timing too far advanced) which makes it run hotter. You may be able to adjust the dizzy or it could be the timing chain having slop... Is your radiator clean inside and out ? How old is your thermostat ? Crackling sound comes from under the hood ? B

Check the diagnostic codes from the ECU first, then lets proceed from there... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 B

Caliper slide pin, and no, I have no idea. Best I could do is pull a wheel and try to look for the same identification. Do they both fit ? Is one slide pin exposed for a longer distance ? I assume we are talking mm here, so thats only .16" difference... B

Hmm, obviously operator error... B

Does the compressor kick on when you increase rpm or move ? Sounds like the fan clutch is tired. Spin it by hand when cold. If it rotates more than 1/4 to 1/2 turn may freewheeling, it's probably shot. When you start cold, can you hear the fan sound shange after 15-30 seconds ? If the fan clutch is bad you should notice the truck running hotter at low speeds. B

Ohhh, THIS is TOO perfect... Try the SEARCH function !! B

Hey Bud, good to hear from you ! Your business idea keep you away or did it take you this long to post bond ?? B

Battery, yes... Alternator, probably... From there, I have no idea... Yes, keep us updated, and good luck !! B

I'm assuming you have a manual... Jack up the truck so the wheels are 15-30 cm off the ground and have 4 jack stands bracing it. By all means do this in a garage with cement floor, I borrowed a friends... Get a tranny jack if you can, it makes a BIG difference !! You can buy one for less than a 3 day rental. Do so if in doubt and rent it to friends till it's paid for+. PB blast any rusted bolts, paying attention to the T-bar mounts, tranny cross member bolts and drive shaft components. Pull the shifters (ID snapring pliers highly recommended) Pull the starter (all the way out the front), clean well with brake/contact cleaner and scrub the electrical contacts. Measure the T bar adjustment bolt so you can get it close later, clock the T-bars with a punch or chizel, front and rear. Loosen the 3 bolts holding the front sockets of the T-bars. Disconnect the wiring to/ near the tranny. I used colored tape to mark them. Most will make sense, some wont Almost forgot. Loosen (remove if a problem later) the exhaust down tubes and 2-1 joint. Put the jack under the tranny and just support it in the position that it is in. Break loose the front drive train at the front of the transfer case (clock it !!) Break loose the rear drive train at the rear diff (clock it !!) and you may need a plug or a drip pan for the hole... Take the bolts out of the rear tranny mount. Remove the bell housing bolts (18 or 24" extension with a universal joint and a friend to guide the socket on will make ALL the difference) Remove the rear crossmember taking the tranny mount and T-bars with it Lower the tranny a few inches and look for any wires/issues. Pull it out of the housing... Basically from there it is the same reversed for install if you are not touching the clutch (if in doubt, replace components) but thats another story. Let me know if thats the case and I'll respond a hell of a lot faster... TOOLS: ID snapring pliers, jack stands, colored tape, 18-24" socket extension, universal joint, tranny jack, PB Blaster or like bolt penetrant, punch/chisel, breaker bar and thats all I can think of now. I'm sure I've forgotten some things and will chime in when I think of them if no one else has. It's really not that bad, just pay attention and save the beer for afterwards... Ask away about specifics and good luck. B

Sorry lowrider, I totally forgot.... Let me start typing... B

I'd guess the Cl and tre's are fubared, but could go all the way to control arm/compresion arm bushings, etc... Have you checked the wheel bearings in the last xx,xxx miles ? You definitely need front end work, and like MZ pointed out, it's best to try to fix it right. B

:cool2: B

Hmm... I'm moving this to the R50 section. I'm sure there will be plenty of replies... B

All of the above... You have to get under and start checking. Due to the weak stock front ends on these (expecially with 33" tires) you need to ease up on the aggressiveness. Front end hop has twisted many a front end... Let us know what you find. B

Well, that bides the question, how long have you had it ?? Yes, start by bleeding the system (read replace the fluid). B

If you do the exhaust, do it all in 1 shot, headers to tailpipe... It would be about $700 if you install the headers and have the piping done with new high flow cat and muffler. Then save for the lift and tires. Do it the other way around, but you'll want the extra power once you are lifted and have agressive tires... B

Cool !! Nothing like getting to a landmark point with a project. If you take her out, take some picts !! B

Sometimes you don't want the comets tail of sparks... I don't form a lot of metal, I cut it... Most of the info seems right, but you can substitute some of the items just be being clever and not being afraid to experiment. The minimum required is a torch, vise, hammer, jack, 2x4's (etc) and some thought. That'll take you a long way and can even be fun... B

LMAO... You can see how helpful the new Mod's are, DJ... The PoHo thread was closed due to some concerns about size from 88... So, we needed a forum to share our experiences and receive support... I moved and have a garage that I'm setting up now. The mods should begin before winter (I have 2 other vehicles that need attention) Sorry, no new info other than that right now... B