Precise1

Ok... *starts saving* B Say, are you going to keep an inventory of "the JJs that you will get with these links are are modified for the 2-3/8 wide application" incase someone needs a replacement?

Haha, that is sweet!! 1 Q though, what size body lift, if any, are those designs for? PM sent. B

I suggest you go through the Truck of the Month forum, there are tons of GREAT pictures in there. When you find what you'd like to submit, simply PM the person for permission. I'm pretty sure everyone will say it is ok to use, they were submitted for a public contest and are sometimes used to make calendars. If the pictures get used, you may have to send the subject a copy of the magazine though... B

Just a thought, could you have loosened a freeze plug or maybe stretched a seam in the radiator? That's aweful cold!! B

On the point of not touching the bulb, do it the easy way. Buy a box of disposable latex or nitrile gloves, put one on to install the bulb and throw the box into the garage for later, you'll have plenty of uses for them, trust me!! B

Inner and outer and rear seals? Perhaps I got expensive ones, but they cost me about $60 for everything. My point is, the bearings still need to be transplanted into new rotors by someone or even installing new ones which will be about the cost of turning the old rotors. Agreed. B

B

Ok and the bearings and seals? Who swaps them out, or do you buy them new too and installed in the rotors?? All he did was say the same thing as 6 other people... B

Sounds like the square piece crimped (guess) to the end of the cable is loose, allowing it to spin. See if this is the case, try recrimping the end or replacing the cable. B

I don't have enough information/knowledge to fully answer that. Yes, metal fatigues due to stress and heat, mainly. Constant HIGH heat can warp metal, but it is usually peak heat and or sudden cooling that warps most metals more; warping is a symptom, not a cause of weakness/fatigue. I know cast iron is the common used metal for rotors as it is tough and has no grain or internal stress (the reason most metals warp) so it is generally the most forgiving material for this application. How hot brake rotors get, I do now know. At what temperature does cast iron begin to exhibit warping, I do not know. Do a panic stop from 75mph and stop directly before a cold creek, then drive into it, dunking the brakes. I'll bet you you now have warped rotors... I have run oroginal rotors that were 30+ years old, so they don't necessarily weaken too quickly if they are not abused. That said, I'm sure that warping and minimum thickness happens much sooner than sufficient metal fatigue to make them unsafe. B

Fair enough, but as a machinist, I simply do not agree with you. Not counting the center gap, the WD21 rotors have at least 16mm thichness of metal. If you take .25mm off of each side (usually sufficient), you have removed 3.125% of the metal thickness. Techincally they will heat up more quickly but the difference is so negligable, it makes no difference. What causes warping is poor metalurgy/manufacturing, insufficient braking capacity for the vehicle design/weight, poor driving habbits/conditions and dragging calipers. If none of these exist, the rotors will not warp for a LONG time, but when they do, it is pefectly acceptable to have them turned down true again. B

Yeah, sorry. I'm at work and don't play videos, etc here... That sucks, but you need to avoid the liability. IF someone were to run them on the street, well, that is on them, right... I highly recommend single point threading... B

This x1274!! Actually, they can and do. Fortunately, they can usually be turned true several times.. B

Very interesting... Would it make the ride any harsher, there being no cushioning from bushings? Do you have someone local to CNC thread the tubing? B

Sorry, I only have about 100 active members who's rigs I memorize. Your sig doesn't show when I'm posting... Brakes are your stopping power, ie. wheels stop turning... Downshifting to where your wheels lock only mean your wheels stop turning briefly. There is no magic to this, your brakes work better than downshifting if your brakes work correctly. No wonder your auto tranny is having issues, you hammer on it, and I doubt your downshifting reaction time plays a significant role in stopping. If you think it is necessary, use the E-brake instead. It is more conveniently located and somewhat designed for it... Do what you want, of course, but start saving... B

Leave the drive train alone!! Down shifting is for long slow reductions or trying to minimize speed in a decline. You are not a trucker!! Stop it!! First off, you should not ever 'have to' do it to stop. Ever!! Unless the brakes fail!! Period. The brakes will slow you down better. Adjust/repair the brakes!! 1st gear at 25 mph?? I'll assume that you have a manual tranny, and that's the syncro's trying to match enough to engage the gear, and then the wheels semilock as the drive train tries to get the engine up to speed. You are harassing your drive train coming and going. The good news is that I have parts I'll sell you... Keep sane stopping distances, slap it in neutral (or step on the clutch) and use your good brakes appropriately. B

LOL. Definitely a great help!! Remember though, the truck is on it's side and it is warmer there now... B

I can't help you as I've only driven Nissan for the last 15 years and have never had to replace a headlight. (one held water 40% deep in the winter, worked fine)... As for the "hands the size of a five year old and be double jointed", I replaced the GF's timing belt on a Honda last weekend and wish I could buy a set of those!!! B

Well, by definition, all SAS's are custom. While models do influence what or how things can be done, many of the components or principles can be shared. I say lump it for now, and when we have a big enough pile, it will become more clear if further sorting will be required. B

Do the u joints rotate smoothly freehand?? Are they properly located and centered? C clips firmly seated in the cup retaining grooves? I replaced mine a year ago and it worked very nicely. B

Yes, I believe this is the issue you are having. You can always clock it with a marker to get close... B

Try 'tension rod'. It bolts to the LCA and frame so it should be easy to describe to someone... B

Too rich, and or not enough back pressure? In addition to all the above, of course... B

I believe there is a recent thread in the 90-95 section by jgt. (even a few threads below in this section... ) A search should bring it up. B

Yes... Sorry. Without being there, jacking up the truck, pushing, pulling and inspecting (maybe disassembling), I can't really tell you what needs to be replaced. I can tell what to look at and mention previously posted solutions though... The pan hard rod (there is another name for it) goes from the rear axle to the frame, horizontally; it minimizes lateral shift and locates the axle. B