Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

Precise1

Moderator
  • Posts

    42,909
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Ahh, ok. I'm not up on my mix and match between the models. I plan to stick with the 4.63 (or whatever) gears and 31's. Of course 32x11.5's will have a little effect, but not enough to matter. People here regularly run 33's with 4.6x gears. You are ahead of the game... B
  2. Yes, check cable tension (there is adjustment where it comes out under the back seat). Before just tightening it I would pull the drums so see what the rear brake system looks like. If everything seems ok, then put the drums on and pull the E-brake 1/2 way and go see if you can turn/remove the drums and inspect again. Do the same thing at full pull. then start playing with cables, etc. Compare the brakes from side to side (shoe spread, wheel cylinder, tension, etc) Oh, you may need 2 bolts to pop the drums off (threaded holes). I believe they are m6x1.0, I keep 2 in the ash tray for GP. B
  3. It might. It could be that the T-bars are uneven and that is part of the lean, you may want to check that. LOL, Steve IS Rugged Rocks... (great guy) B
  4. Precise1

    CODES

    Temporarily swap your #4 spark plug wire with another one of similar length fron another cylinder and see if the error code follows the wire or not... B
  5. I'd jack up the frame for some wiggle room to get the pan hard rod off and onto the extension. B
  6. You can get 4.9 gears for $300?? O: Can you get me a set?? I think you need to punch this into a gear train calculator for any coherent answer other than "It will help". B
  7. Precise1

    CODES

    Distributor cap/rotor? Plug Wires? Plugs? Coil? Does it run, and how?? B
  8. Tacoman, tell them to make about 12 more while they are at it. I'll be buying one... B
  9. Here is a good place to start. I've done a lot of homework for 110v welders but have not taken the plunge yet... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...4&hl=welder (there are more if you search for them. HINT: Use advanced search) B
  10. No, just American office workers... B
  11. First things first. Check the ECU for trouble codes when it is acting up, and even now as it should store them I believe. There is a write up in the how to section. If you get no results, clean the MAF and check the connector well (typical issue) then test the O2 sensor for proper functioning. There are write ups here on those also but I'd have to search for them. Holler if you can't find them. B
  12. That's what I'm asking... B
  13. I sort of agree with GG. My pathys aren't exactly go carts, but I have no problem with the turning radius. About what I would expect from that wheel base 4x4. B
  14. I've never used that, but I recommend reading this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5496 B
  15. Any one ever hear of this? My 'new' 95 (97,000 miles) has a slight intermittent knock or tap (not lifter tap) at idle, but runs fine so I didn't think much of it. My 'old' 95 (132,000 miles) doesn't have it and runs like a champ. It seems to have more power, but manual VS auto tranny so that's just a guess. I'll check build date and see how far apart they are. Maybe they span when this started. I'm wondering what damage it does and if I should plan on swapping motors. B Oh, I found it here. http://www.roadcompanion.ca/apa_images/Pathfinder.pdf
  16. You certainly enjoy having such ready, willing and able boys... B
  17. They do an off road test that a vw bug could handle, then chose the domestics with the lowest ground clearance, softest suspension and biggest motor. Whatever, they can choose which ever one they want, it won't influence my choice at all. I wish they would have put the pathy through the mud hole first, then the exploder, just to see if it would still get stuck... B
  18. Haha!! Nice!! It doesn't look bad at all the way it is!! How much draw does that use?? B
  19. Read this. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 Try changing the tranny fluid with quality gear oil and perhaps adding some Lucas oil stabilizer and/or other additive (check the old oil for metal shavings, it may shed some light). It may slow down or arrest the bearing wear long enough to find a cheap replacement tranny (look for local crashed pathys and here in the classifieds) or do no good at all. If you pull the tranny yourself and have your friend take a look in it, that should be a relatively cheap solution also. B
  20. The Holden (GMC/Chevy?) 4.3 liter swap is popular down in Australia, but I don't remember what is required to bolt it up. I can try to search for it later. The 2.4 liter motor can be used but you would need the tranny and perhaps drive shafts so a donor vehicle would be best. It is a weak motor though. The 3.3 liter out of a 1996-2000 Terrano would be the best/easiest swap. The 2.7 liter diesel is also a good choice; I believe they use the same tranny. Honestly, your best bet would be to find/import a crashed vehicle as a donor/parts car. B
  21. Yep, like GG said... Check/replace the rear link bushings, and at least inspect the pan hard rod ones. B
×
×
  • Create New...