Precise1

Yes, definitely a good idea. I forgot to plug one side and splattered ATF all over first time I drove it... B

Hmm, probably be worth machining a few out of oil-lite bronze... B

That is the front of a 95 4x4 Pathfinder... Like MZ said, the grill comes off in a few minutes and you may want to loosen or remove the front bumper, also not hard at all. I relocated mine when I installed a body lift so far more was removed than was needed, but made it real easy... B

Wow!! I see marks on the shaft, did the bearing seize?? B

Adam covered that well. You will have hard lines until the front of the motor and then rubber lines attaching to the radiator. All you really need is more rubber hose and hose clamps. Those hoses will have to be necked down to... to... (forgets the size). B People who live in terrible places claim the cold causes no problems other than some stiff shifting until things warms up. One person claims that fluid can jell and block the lines, but I can't imagine how cold that would have to be to jell ATF... No valve, but I guess you could do that until things warm up. Yes, you can gang them but I don't think that is necessary.

Yes and yes. Completely bypass the stock cooler (in the bottom of the radiator) and run solely to the 'aftermarket' unit. All you need is basic tools (wrench/screw driver/catch pan), some hose and hose clamps, mounting hardware and the cooler. If you have lived and worked long enough to retire, you should be able to handle this... A new one should be well less than $150 and used ones can be had from a local junk yard for cheap. Ford Exploder is a popular donor but it is really what size and shape you need and can fit. Good Man!! Let me see if I can dig up a picture of what I did... B The PO had installed this, but I improved the lines, rotated it sideways so the inlet is at the bottom so it can't trap air and remounted it. I was told this was a 18,000lb capacity cooler or how ever they rate them... B

Yes, 94 and 95 have electronic speedos but I haven't the slightest idea how it would be recalibrated... B

I doubt they would fit properly without modification if even at all. The model design change between the 95 and 96 years was significant... B

Not to mention that 105k is considered past the life of the motor in Japan (due to smog/planned obsolescence laws), correct? So why should they care of us round eyes have to worry about changing the belt?? I figure that if I change the belt twice in the life of the truck, no big deal... B

Simon gives good advice. Some prefer the premarked belts but I can mark my own. I don't know Gatorback brand so I can't help there. The change interval for the 95 is every 105k miles or 4 years. I'm fairly certain that the belt on my 95xe with 99k miles is stock... I'll be changing the TB on a pathy for the first time in a month or two but the write up covers almost all of it and there are countless threads about it. I am certain I won't have any problem with all the information here. Yes, it is a horrible placement and probably causes premature starter failures. Many of us have installed oil filter relocation kits because of this... Yes, probably. If you remove the exhaust manifold, change all the studs out with the 'upgraded' 300zx studs and have the manifold planed if it is not cracked. Often headers are installed instead. B Also, it looks like your torsion bars have sagged. You can usually easily tighten them back up but you may need an alignment after that...

What?? B Welcome back Rami!! Let me know if you are interested in an enforcer type side job...

What?? B

Perhaps if your fan clutch bound up, that's about all i can think of... B

Someone else might not have though... B

Yes, precisely. I removed some posts from public view that were problematical. I should have been more clear in my explanation at the time and not rushed; I'll be more focused next time. B

Some members have had problems with MAF cleaners. What I know works without issue is alcohol and a Q-tip. Try that and make sure you haven't damaged the MAF filament. Also the MAF wiring is a source of problems; make sure the connector is clean, tight and all the pins/wires are in place. It shouldn't have so dramatic of an effect other than smoking like a bastage. Could the sea foam have loosened up 22 years and 240k miles worth of tank crud and clogged the fuel filter? I've had a clogged fuel filter on a nissan truck before and it would barely idle and stumble when you gave it (no) gas... Ok, I did this when I was a kid; mixed up 2 coil wires on the distributor. Double check that (do you have the firing order info?) and borrow a timing light to see what it reads. B

Better than jerky... http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/2...r_ready_to.html B

If so, I'd say that the thermostat/fan clutch is the least of the immediate concerns. Who's to say it isn't just a head gasket? That is far more common and at 280k, understandable... MY1PATH stated good information. B

/\Like he said... Do you have vacuum? B

^ Bingo!! B

Pruned. B

Well, that's a handful!! Congrats on the scholarship/training and sorry about the hand. The general info we can help you with... Welcome back!! B

*snicker* Sorry Balmer, but you put your foot pretty deep in your mouth on that one. It's all good though... B

Like I tell everyone, if you do not know for certain if the TB has been serviced within spec, make sure it is!! The TB is the #1 killer of of the VG30 motor under 200k miles Sounds like yours has been done so do your best to talk to the PO about it. As for GG's list, I'll argue that the upper and lower radiator hoses and the 3 belts do not need replacing unless obviously showing signs of wear/damage; they can all be dealt with without difficulty later on. If you do decide to change them regardless (admittedly not a bad idea) then throw them in a box and keep them in the back of the truck... B

I don't know at what temp the AT Temp light is supposed to go on, but I never trust idiot lights. Like GG said, usually by the time they trigger you have a real issue. Gauges are the way to go. I plan to install a Tranny filter and temp gauge along with volt meter, oil pressure and oil or coolant temp. B