Precise1

I have a selection of o-rings available. If you need one, gimme the dimensions and I'll mail it out if I can find a suitable one. B

UCA's, crank the T-bars until .5" from the bump stop (seems about the standard), install the taller/hisher load springs and replace the erar shocks. BAM!! There you have it.. You may want to invest in (or make) a pan hard rod mount drop bracket (lateral bar on the rear axle). They can be had for about $60 IIRC. B

This first... B

Yeah, I read similar things and decided just to avoid the whole issue. I can not remember what brand I used, but I do know it took 3 different stores to find it... B

From what I have gathered when I replaced the tranny fuild in my first Pathy, GL-4 will not harm the tranny. GL-5 might harm the tranny. My simple solution was to find GL-4 and use it. If it was my truck, I'd drain it and replace with GL-4. Chalk it up to a learning experience and move on. I don't think you will have to worry about flushing the tranny, but I don't know if there are any deep wells inside where fluid could pool. Maybe someone who has taken one apart can chime in. If you do decide to flush it, well, you have to use gl-4. (or mayby something like Lucas oil additive) B

*stops at the store on the way home* B

Well, that's 1/2 way there... You probably have one of the few in the US... That really depends on the area also... B

This I really doubt... If it is a 95, you have the notorious electronic cluster, they are prone to failure. The first thing to do is remove the cluster and check the connections and tighten the brass screws in the back of the flex circut board (they are the ground points). See if it works then, sometimes it fixes the issue. B

Sounds like you have air in the system. Did you 'burp' it?? There is one other thing to check. Perhaps your fan clutch is tired which is why it overheated in the first place?? Fan clutch does the cooling below about 25mph. If it heats up when you go slow/idle but cools down or stabilizes when you drive 40 or faster, then it is the fan clutch. With the engine cold, try to spin the fan by hand as fast as you can and let go so it freewheels. It shouldn't spin more than a 1/4 turn, certainly not more than 1/2 turn Is the inside of your radiator fairly clean?? B

If you have air in the line, it can contribute to hard or fading braking. Compressed air in the line can cause pressure to remain in the system even when you are not stepping on the pedal, not allowing the calipers to retract. Sometimes it is minor, sometimes it can cause rotor glaze, noise, and even warped rotors from the heat of constant friction. Sounds like some new pads is the next step. Sorry, but I don't have a brand to recommend. B

93 with 200k+ that ran, drove and looked like new? I'm not going to cry BS, I'm going to ask why you still aren't driving this miracle vehicle... B

First, make sure you have solid ground, both wire and contacts. Don't assume, examine, clean and re-fasten. Next do the same for the positive charge side, all the way to the starter. k9sar has a good write up about this trouble shooting. Please search for it and if you can't find it, let me know; I will. B

Kinda like others said also. Crappy break pads could be the culprit, and if the system is not properly bled, the calipers may not fully release/retract... B

Will do and done... Thanks!! You are welcome... B

Have you bled the brakes?? I'm assuming you include the slide pins... Are the rotors warped(feel a pulse in the pedal/braking)? Could one of your autolocking hubs be stuck and turning an unhappy CV?? Damn, you have done most of what I would have already. I'll think on it while I wait on an answer... B

Fair enough... Many flammable aerosols will work. Hell, I bet you could even use old style hair spray. I am under the impression that WD-40 is more gentle on rubbers, etc under the hood though which is why I prefer it, not to mention I always have some to dry electrical components... Absolutely!! I'm ashamed I didn't say it. Always have one handy, it can make a huge difference. Everyone should also have one in the vehicle, they cost about $20. That's about the cheapest insurance there is... B

I air down my off road tires, lock in my manual locking hubs, dig out the tires a bit with my shovel, lay down traction mats, bless my locker, put it in 4low and exit the ditch... B

Yes, no adventure for me, ever, especially not in coupes... DOH!! Red interior?!? I missed that!! Would someone please go get me a gallon of gasoline... B

I never have used assembly lube but that is probably more out of ignorance, most mechanics do. What I will do is go through great pains to clean the seal surfaces and lightly coat the seal with the appropriate fluid before installing. Seems to work for me, but maybe I'm lucky?? B

I prefer wd-40 spray due to the ease of use and safety factor. It gets the same results but with probably more precision... I have heard of this trick. M18 has an major diameter of .708", the closest US equivalent is 11/16 (.6875") which may work also, but I'm not sure of the amount of thread engagement... B

Looking good!! Make sure you get the timing belt right... B

Agreed. It's not the best there is, but is rated well enough. $300, that's hard to argue with... http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jee...mp;partID=40271 B

2 door??? TBI??? No thanks... B

Read up... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20711 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13814 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5343 B

I'll have to agree. This is my first winch, everything else has been done with a come-along and I look forward to mine collecting dust now. Winches don't have to be that expensive, and I got mine attached to the used bumper I really wanted. Keep your eyes out for deals/sales and you may be suprised... B