Precise1

I'll start with some quick, easy ones. For the WD21: Quality headers at a good price (Thorleys are $400 at the cheapest) Mid pipes to match up to cat back systems Pan hard rod drop bracket Idler arm brace (Calmini's are garbage, mine is so far out of square it won't mount) Modified transfer case shifters for 3" body lifts Sway bar quick releases Do you want to get ito bumpers, sliders and skid plates? For R50: Soccer ball enclosure for cargo area Starbucks drive through curb feelers External grocery racks for Costco trips Seriously, Sub frame drop kit Strut spacers Snorkel (if you figure this out, you will be the only one making them) Do you want to get into bumpers, sliders and skid plates? B

What if you try swapping out another ECU?? Not unheard of... What year, auto or manual and here do you live? B

Yes, you can drive around in 4H with manual hubs disengaged, but your drive train and CV's will be turning regardless and I believe the recommended limit on that is 50mph?? I would try to avoid it in principle and definitely would not drive the freeway like that for any distance. Better to remove the 4X shifter and shove the linkage all the way forward to 2H... B

I would make sure that the corresponding wire orients with the plug at the end, I believe it is uni-directional. I'm not sure if it matters, but this is what I would do. If you have cut the old one before now, wait for further input... B

Sorry for the hassle, but glad we helped and you are back on the road... B

Ok, something is screwy!! Obviously, don't drive around on pavement in 4H... Look at the shifter linkage, is there anything out of whack, not lined up right, bolt slop adjustment, etc?? Unless something is very wrong, you should have the proper throw to get all gears. I'm not sure I can be more help without being there and fiddling with it. I'll try though... B

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Very good point... I'm sure everyone was thinking general use (I know I was), but that may not be the case. B

Could you be going past 4H into neutral? B

One side, not the side he is trying to match. Oh, FUELER, when you start to get close to the 'old' height, the non damaged side will start lift also so keep measuring both sides until they are even, then check them against the rear. I believe slightly nose down is the desired stance, mine is .75" lower in front but .5-1.0" should be a good range. I measure to the center of the body crease and graduated a metal pole for this so I could just set it there and not fight with a tape measure each time. B

LSD doesn't help if you get a leg up in the air... I'd lean towards a locker but what I am struggling with is the $100 lock-rite that I have in the garage or a $1000 ARB that I don't have. As for winches, you need a way to mount it but I just picked up a Smittybuilt XJS8000 (something like that) for $250 so that isn't a major investment. Also, I believe Rugged Rocks Off Road is having a sale where if you buy the locker, you get th compressor free so if you go that route, at least check out what good old Steeevo is offering... B

That is a great deal!! With the $ you saved, you can buy a sense of humor!! That's a joke also, we indulge in some good natured ribbing around here... B

In the Garage section, there is a pinned thread with links for free downloads of factory service manuals. I don't think I have to say more, eh? B

Personally, I prefer to adjust the T-bars with the truck on the ground, that way you dont have to jack it up/drop it all the time and it's not that hard to turn the adjusting nut. I used a 19mm (IIRC) closed end ratcheting wrench so you can leave it on the nut, slide out, check the height, repeat... Make sure to grease the threads of the adjusting bolt and the contact face of the adjuster arm so it doesn't gall and turns easier. If you set it at a different height than it was before, an alignment is recommended. The T-bars will settle so drive it for a couple of days and then re-adjust as appropriate. I believe you have less settling if you don't jack up the vehicle; you never unload the suspension... B

Nice, try taking a picture to post and we will pin this topic. Price of a socket and a sensor instead of having to remove everything. B

No, the engagement was 25-30mm IIRC. Essentially almost all of the spline is in the splined socket. Yeah, I figured it was stripped (key word was 'bang') but didn't want to jinx anything. Do you need pictures of how it should be? Let me know, it's not raining now... Go to a junk yard and get the replacement parts and everything should be fine. B

Please leave your man card with the front desk and quietly exit via the side door... B

Feel free to start a thread in the Classifieds/Services section so that information doesn't get lost. I only hype Alkorahil because he has been here a long time, has helped a lot of people and I have personally bought parts from him. He is also the one who answers the phone... B

Why didn't you just replace the factory one with a functioning unit out of a part out vehicle?? B

Aren't they two different things, the crank seal and the oil pump seal?? I replaced the crank seal when I did my timing belt and it was a cake walk... As for the oil pump, yes, someone else was talking about it recently, but where I do not recall. B

Remember, if you need/want Nissan factory parts, talk to Alkorahil (listed in the Classifieds/Services). He's a great guy and has good prices... B

The biggest differences between the 90-93 years and 94-95 years is the dash and a few minor things like bumpers/lights/mudflaps. A 94 FSM can be used for the 90-93 years for almost all motor control electronics, the entire fuel system, engine, drivetrain, etc. Close enough to make the free download a pretty sweet deal. The other option is to buy a 94-95 pathy as they are the best and you get a free, complete FSM. BTW, I recently aquired an AT repair manual that I have been planning to scan and post in PDF format, just 'cause I'm cool like that. B

In none of these posts have I seen anyone state a calculated MPG. That is where it starts... OOk, 1999.0 Pathy SE stock with 152k miles has averaged 18MPG being driven around town and 60 miles a day freeway commute that is not smooth flowing. I plan to install auto or manual hhubs and look into an air intake in hopes of getting up to 20MPG. Oil grade matters, check the cap and rotor, clean the MAF filaments, and have the OBD2 codes checked. You could also have an O2 sensor on the way out. B

If you plan to keep the vehicle for a while, I am a fan of the Firestone lifetime alignment for $140. Replace the struts? Have it aligned... Buy new tires? Have it aligned... Went wheeling and the steering is a bit off? Have it aligned... It pays for it's self real quick. B

Are you sure it is coming from the rear end?? Sounds like that can be hard to isolate sometimes. When was the last time the gear oil was changed? B