Precise1

5/16-24= .3125 diameter X .04166 pitch. M8x1.0= .3149 diameter X .03937 pitch. Odd size, but oh so very close.... B

Ok, damn tough to answer that mess so at least add a number system or something... Passenger side wasn't working worth a crap, piston frozen. Yes. It could, and... probably not outside of moving... The tension nut is 3-5 ft/lbs IIRC, in other words, not much at all. I generally go to no rotor wobble (manual duress test) and then to the next locking ring position. I prefer too tight to too loose, but others may not. If you have replaced bearings, the setting is different. You have been here for a while, have you not downloaded a FSM in the Garage yet?? Grease the seal surfaces/seal, lay it flat and tap it in with a board and a hammer (GENTLY!!) to get it started all the way around then finess the rest. Yes, you might not be able to tell If one went by that, you'd have glowing bearings in 100 miles. B

Cool, glad you figured it out fairly easily... WD-40 for the electrical components as Water Displacement attempt #40 works really well!! It's an old dune buggy trick, when the engine splutters in the rain, pop off the dizzy cap (they are horribly exposed), give it a shot of WD-40, snap it back on and drive away. It does work for finding vacuum leaks also, but anything flammable will do that. Good that you cleaned the MAF too. Plug wires can help too if they are really old, I like using STI wires, they are quite well made and not terribly expensive. http://www.karlynsti.com/ B

I ran across the starter info from the PO. It is NSA... Apparently a Tiawanese company with a plant in China, the point is that they are new starters not reman and no used parts. I suspect that alone makes them superior to reman. the price was $155 3 years ago at Napa, so far so good... B

IIRC it seats up against a shoulder in the bore. I have had luck removing seals by tapping them in a little to break them loose before pulling them out. The good news is that you can pry those out with a fine bladed screw driver, just try not to slip... B

Canada... B

Check for vacuum leaks with a flammable aerosol. Spray briefly at suspected areas and if the idle increases, you have found something. Visually inspecting lines I find to be hit and miss. As for the other, try WD-40 to make sure the electrical components are really dry and check your connectors for the MAF and TPS. Does the ECU show any fault codes? B

Nice trick!! I'll be playing with that later, it'll be nice to find what you are looking for in minutes, not hours... B

Yes, it does come out, but it may be a bit stubborn after all these years. Sometimes you damage them taking them out, which is why you generally leave them alone or replace them. B

Yeah, the reman ones are hit and miss, many people go through 2 or 3 to find one that lasts a while. The PO of my truck bought one from a specialty company through Napa that does a true rebuild/upgrade but I can't remember the name now. Maybe call and ask of Napa is local to you? IIRC the R50 starter fits and is a little smaller so a little easier to wedge into place. Who was it that discovered that?? Adamzan?? B

I've pulled apart several of the round style and it is the same assembly with the same damn little clips that seem almost impossible not to break. LOL at the numbers, if you had the round dash I'd send the part that is sitting in the garage... B

Late to the party, but... Try to find the right sized torx bit socket that doesn't quite fit into the hole and hammer it in, then try rocking the bolt back and forth after soaking it with penetrant. If you drill the head off try using a stub drill, spot drill or even center drill as it is going to try to chatter and bind like crazy with a jobber length drill (what is most commonly sold). Follow trailchaser's advice from there, it is sound. Nothing wrong with socket head cap screws at all, probably the #1 fastener that I use, currently holding on my Warn hubs and Thorley headers. Hex sockets are advised but if you use a standard L key, always support the bend section when trying to get a stubborn bolt loose. FYI, the threads there are M8x1.25 and I used 30mm long SHCS. B

I'm waiting for an Xterra and an R50 with a sunroof to show up. I have almost all the WD21 parts I would want sitting around... B

Funny, I thought I had posted before this... Obviously, sorry this happened. That doesn't say enough but how else do you say it. Try not to hold anger for the idiot, it will only hurt you in the long run. Focus on getting things resolved as well as possible and taking care of yourself. You are young and with a little bit of care the back injury should heal just fine. Hell, take the opportunity to sleep in, soak in hot tubs, get massages and all of those horrible things... B

All you should need to replace is the brake drum it's self, the brake shoes and maybe the slave cylinder. Break the lug nuts loose, jack up the rear axle (properly support it with jack stands, blocking the front tires,etc) and remove the wheels. The drums should have two threaded holes (M8 or M10, I can't remember) to put bolts in to pop the drum off. Do not breathe the dust when you do this!! Ok, now you have both drums off. Back the adjuster on the bottom off and start disassembling on one side, keeping the parts clean and laid out on a clean rag in exploded view fashion. Reassemble with new components and if you get confused on how it goes together, take a look at the other side that you haven't touched yet... Oh, also go the the Garage Section here, look for Service Manual at the top, follow a functioning link and download your free Factory Service Manual. B

Part of the problem here is that you are listing wear items as if they were repairs. Brakes/bearings and clutch could have to be done on any used car you buy, that's just the way it goes. The other part is the prices you list are quite high!! Valve covers leaking? Try tightening the screws a bit. Takes 5 minutes and is usually all that is required. Who did the timing belt?? Was it when you had the vehicle?? Seriously, what is the issue?? Who told you this and how do they know?? Ok, now you are just borrowing trouble!! My wife's 1999.0 has 260,000km on it and no death wobble yet. Not even a wounded shimmy... The tranny is a bit of a stumbling block but it has to be removed to replace the clutch anyway so you save on labor there. I understand the poor student scenario having done it myself, but in all reality you should be able to have your car back on the road for about $2000. An 03 would be $6-8k, correct? Also, it could need brakes/bearings, timing belt replaced, etc... B

When changing the front seal (as was said, no pan interference) use a small wood dowel (unsharpened pencil) and gently tap the seal slightly inward first to break it loose first, then it will pull out easily (I used a hooked pick). To install the new one wipe everything down (I cleaned with alcohol) and apply a light film of engine oil on seal/surfaces. Cut a 4x4" (aprox) piece of plastic out of a plastic container and wrap it around the cam seal diameter, then slide the seal over the plastic and onto the crank seal diameter and gently tap in place with the wood dowel. This will keep you from damaging the inside of the seal on the square shoulder of the crank and keep things cleaner. It is really straightforward once you get there and I HIGHLY recommend using wood; we all goof sometimes and that is not where I would want to slip with a screw driver or whatnot. B

x2 if you are having that much trouble with them. Rock Auto has everything from new calipers/pad sets to rebuild kits, to slide pin boots... B

SO it was the battery?? Any pictures of the beast?? B

Write ups are always good and yes, the motor needs to get to and stay at proper temperature to run correctly. I'm glad it was an easy fix for you. Did you have a lot of coolant drain out when you removed the T-stat housing? B

Thanks!! B

Not much of a difference here in NorCal unless you are in the mmountains so I'm pretty indifferent. The only real problem is when flatlanders go up skiing and drive 'like normal' and don't know to watch for black ice on bridges/overpasses/etc and cause serious wrecks. B

I think you need to move the truck to where it isn't asked to deal with such ridiculous conditions... Seriously though, how hot are the heater hoses?? Actual temp would be great, but can you hold them?? B

Fair enough, but lets slow down on the random nonsense now.

Most people make their own as few original ones have survived this long and if they have, odds are you tear it trying to remove it. You can use severaal types of material and you can buy the plastic fasteners at most auto parts stores... B