Precise1

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What is the size or weight of your spare? B

^Exactly. Look around, push, pull, jack it up, etc. A trick I've used to find/isolate squeaks, especially from bushings is the give them a reasonable soaking with WD40. If the squeaking goes away for a little bit, you have found your source so obviously only do one side or one type at a time. B

I've seen them but never used them so I don't know how much better they work. Sometimes you don't have good access aroung the spring to install the clips though. These are the ones I am accustomed to (without the secondary hooks). I find that wrapping the hooks with duct tape make them grip better than just a metal on metal contact. If you use this type, make sure to lube the threaded shaft. These look decent if the grooves are properly arced and that keeper system looks effective and built in. Clearance may be an issue... The first pict was Harbor Freight but you can find other brands and the second are carried at Autozone among other places. Just pay attention and be careful and it should go smooth. B

You are welcome. Sad that you decided against the Pathy, but it was obviously a well reasoned decision and at least you stuck with Nissan. Good luck, I hope the Sentra works out for you. B

Absolutely! B

Have you done the obvious underhood inspection to make sure no wires or vacuum lines are unhooked or compromised, all connections are in place, no vacuum leaks, etc? (in addition to checking the codes... ) B

I don't think I'd be willing to wait that long... B

He's a syrup sucker so no worries there. I paid $120 for my magnaflow cat, carb legal and all but I don't know what the current price is. I do have a spare stock cat or two though... B

^Yep. It could be a lot of things and that is the best thing to check first as it is free and easy and can point you at the issue. There is a write up on the procedure in the Garage/How To section. B

Tune up? Clogged exhaust? Any trouble codes showing on the ECU? Severe lack of power usually indicates something more than a can of fluid is required. B

Unfortunately, I doubt if that level of definition is even possible. An Admin will have to define the boundaries, B only Mod in game of NPORA. B

Good point. Write ups can also easily be done in 'chapters' without the need for constant editing. Once again though, I stress that if something needs to be done, just contact a member of the staff. B

Probably differently. The R50 has the advantage of a stronger motor and a more robust steering system, thats about it. The unibody makes it better on the road than the WD21, although they are still offroad capable. The R50 feels more like a solid vehicle due to it's construction rather than the solid frame with chassis sitting on it feel of the WD21. FYI, the WD21 has the minimal emissions control system of the two by far. I'm in a good position to compare since I own both. That said, I prefer my WD21 but in the future will probably build a 2004 pathy. B

Glad you got it done without issue. Hell, I've done Precise's method once in conjunction with Fleury's method! Damn Jeep springs didn't want to fit, especially the second one! I have a set of spring compressors I have used for 20 years (as little as possible). They are ok for assistance, but I had one spring almost get away from me and that will give you a healthy respect for potential energy! Great tools but to be used cautiously... B

Only a light coating is desired. That is all they need, can they can bind or stick if they are slathered. You did fine. Test them out then move on to the next item... B

Just something I ran across about the B&M coolers and BTU to GVW conversion. This equals 1.46 BTU per 1lb GVW This equals 1.63BTU per 1lb GVW This equals 1.66 BTU per 1lb GVW Obviously this doesn't add up. BTU (British Thermal Unit) is approximately the amount of energy needed to heat 1 pound (0.454 kg) of water, which is exactly one tenth of a UK gallon or about 0.1198 US gallons, from 39 °F to 40 °F (3.8 °C to 4.4 °C). I don't believe there is any direct conversion factor to GVW, but as a roughtimate you can use a factor of 1.6 to get close. Best case scenario is to forget the BTU and make decisions solely based on the GVW rating of the cooler. Again, the commonly accepted minimum requirement for a Pathfinder is 18,000 GVW rating. Hope this helps... B

You pretty much have the right idea. As he said, coil spring compressor can come in handy but shouldn't necessary for OEM springs. Jack up the vehicle until the rear axle is in the air and properly support the body at the jack points. Position a jack directly under the pumpkin and raise the rear axle slightly. disconnect the rear sway bar and shocks (bottom end only). Lower the jack and see if you can pull the springs out. If not, position the jack on one side of the axle and raise that so the other side is forced down. You should be able to pull that side out now. Note the position of the spring isolators and install them the same way with the new springs. Repeat to do the other side, jack the axle back up, attach the shocks and sway bar, and lower the whole vehicle back down. B

K says "lol" and then fell over... B

Don't apologize to me Bud, I was just wondering and at this point it is on them, not you. Just saying this isn't rocket science so don't let them snow you. Good luck with the move and whatnot (just been through it myself) but don't get too fixated, eh? Hoser! B

I thought I was being generous? Changed the oil in the R50 yesterday and realized that I have 5 cases of Mobil 1 in the garage. I stocked up when it was on sale and then the wife's commute changed from 60 miles a day to 10 miles and then she just started riding her bike, so no more frequent changes. The plus side is we shouldn't need a new car for 20 years at this rate of wear. B

^Very well said, I have used this trick for fitting things for decades and it can be invaluable for installation or disassembly. B

No worries, glad you got on track. Obviously, we'll help if you need to ask... B

Ok, by your posts I assume you found some helpful threads? Remember, you can always take everything apart and just bring the rotor/hub in to a shop to have the races pressed out and in, then install them yourself. Lets you learn and save at labor... B

There is no forum issue, this is an adjustment of member permissions we are experimenting with for several reasons, quality of posts being one and excessive editing disrupting threads being another. Pay attention to what you post, it's for keeps and if you aren't sure about info/facts do your homework first and then post. That said, if a member wants a post deleted, contact a member of the staff, provide a link to the post and a reason for the deletion. Editing is allowed, but for a limited time only so the poster can deal with typos, mistakes or poorly written posts, not go back days later and alter what was stated. We suspect this will improve the quality of the forum overall and reduce the amount of monitoring and management required by the Staff. We are all volunteers and have other responsibilities as well. B