Precise1

Then these are badder and worst. They are standard issue NA 1995 style, not widebody (although they are large as you can see). They are hard plastic and are attached to the inside of the flare if I understand that correctly. I don't have that old truck anymore but I still have the flares... B

Good idea with the tire swap. Always try to rule out components when possible and it will give you another reference point. B

No problem, they should have IMO. Our 1999.0 has 265/70/15 stock which comes out to about 29.5x10.5" on a 7" rim with unknown backspacing. 31" should fit with the same backspacing (same rim) as long as the coils haven't sagged too much, but that isn't enough for me to tell if what he is asking about will fit properly. B

Looks good, I'd mount it! B

all the way around! B

You need to upload the image to a hosting site like photobucket, or tinyimage then insert the direct address into the picture icon just above the text window. B

The cops are that bad up there? Are they bored or overzealous or just powertripping? There are enough variables including tire size and wear that I'm amazed if a speedo is dead right, and then that is rarely throughout the entire range. Sorry, reading comprehension fail. I won't even try to explain what I thought I was answering. I drove by tach for years in my first Pathy when the speedo was deranged and never had any problems, but then I'm a pretty mellow, low mileage driver. B

Yes, it is pretty low, something like under 40mph for under 5 miles. Best bet is to use a dolly, flat bed or trailer and/or pull the driveshaft if you must flat tow it. B

At what speed, so what percentage is the error, or is it 3mph across the board? That is such a small error, I doubt it is due to the wrong gear. More likely it is a combination of tire size and perhaps your particular cluster is slightly off. I know you said you have 31" tires, but that is just a generalization. What is the actual size that the manufacturer makes them too, and how much wear do they have? Shouldn't be, a mile is a mile in either country. B

He has an R50, not a WD21 so I'm not sure how they will fit. I'm pretty sure this has been covered in the R50 section... B

Yep, thats what I meant, but I refuse to call it a strut rod since there is no damn strut. Sorry, I missed that they were replaced when I skimmed the post. B

Make sure to check your... the... damn it! The bushing on the rod that goes from the frame to the rear of the lower control arm as well. If that and your control arm bushings are shot, your wheels aren't firmly attached to the vehicle and that will make it wander a bit... B

Sorry, poor choice of words... What I have a case of in the garage and recommend when addressing injectors... B

Sorry, late night posting in my twisted brain... SA= South American OZ= Austraaaaalian Both have LPG setups available and I don't think it requires gutting the FI/electronics but I might be wrong. Not available here so I never investigated, but it makes sense to me! B

Send me the script ot be replaced with.... There are several SA/OZ members who run both, and i think it is a good idea for anyone who can. B

I hear you, I often group or size orders to optimize shipping... B

Injector cleaner and a few freeway runs? At least it wasn't DOA so it can't be a significant issue... B

Understood. Found them! Chiltons: Transfer case GL-4 SAE 75w-90 through 1990 and ATF Dextron 1990 on up. Haynes: Transfer case GL-5 through 1990 and ATF Dextron II 1990 on up. If you don't have a pre 1991, use ATF. I'm using Dextron3/Mercon in my 1995. If you want to gamble with gear oil, only use GL-4. (I've never heard anyone with issues, transfer cases seem quite reliable) You know oils better than I do. That is the problem I'm having too... Looks like you are right with the specs. B

I could have sworn the GL-4 restrictions was only for the tranny and I know GL-5 is fine for the diffs (my 1995 FSM only shows the ATF. I need to find my Chiltons or Hayes). No brass syncros being the difference is my guess. This I know for a fact: ATF will work for the transfer case, Dextron3 rated. 75w-90 GL-4 ONLY for the tranny, 5.1 liters (Redline MT90 included) Anyone have it in print that GL-5 is ok in the transfer case? (I really do think so) B

So are you ruling out the timing belt? That's about all I can think of that is something you can address in a parking lot somewhere. Timing, crank angle sensor, dizzy issues are possible too. I guessing fuel delivery is ok, but maybe a failing/failed injector. Make sure to check the ECU for stored codes. Injectors should be 10-14 Ohms, I have had one that passed when cold and failed when hot, but you could tell by how it ran. Coolant temp sensor should be 2.1-2.9 kOhms @ 68*, .68-.10 kOhms @122*, .3-.33 kOhms @ 176*. Obviously looks for something disconnected and maybe bring a can of flammable to search for vacuum leaks? I prefer WD-40... "Remove cam shaft position sensor, harness should stay connected. turn ignition on (do not start). rotate sensor shaft, does each injector make operating sounds?" "Check canister purge and vacuum lines" There are enough other things to check that I would tow or drive it somewhere where I could really work. B

Probably not if it runs better at higher RPM. Yeah, MAF wiring, coolant temp sensor, check the ignition components (cap, rotor, wires). Slight chance of a jumped timing belt so maybe check TDC for #1 to the rotor position while you have the cap off? Got an Ohm meter on you? Need any test values looked up? B

Holy RustMonster!! Good luck with that one, it has to be totally re-done. It looks a lot easier to change the timing belt with that entire front clip removed though... Good interior and same color as mine so I'm cheering for you all the way. Congrats, I know the feeling. I don't have quite the shop you do, but still adequate for some serious work and only improving. B

^ exactly. The easiest way to do it is to have a donor vehicle to pull all the mics/random bits from as well as the tranny/pedals/hydraulics. B

That's some pretty gooey stuff! MTs might not have worked much better, but they might have let you get out by yourself when you realized it was time to turn around. PICTURE OF THE HOOK! B

I'd guess you didn't search... Sticker, ruts or jack it up and spin a rear wheel. If the other spins the opposite way, you have an open diff. I do not know of an aftermarket LSD (the factory is pretty good, better in the later years 94 or 95 IIRC). What do you use the Pathy for? A locker is not always the best option... B