DSM_guy

i too have been thinkin about shirts latley. a forum that im a member of just got done with a t-shirt order..so i asked about what they did for printing. i may start up another thread about it in the OT section. i liked the lettering and design of the one i designed last time..but we will just need a larger raw image to work with.

shirts went down due to the fact that i couldent get a large enough res file for the shirt. that and nobody ever got back with a deff place to get them done.

venge i think he was referring to that if he went with the receiver mounted winch idea. in which case moving the winch would take all of 2 minutes tops but to better answer your question..most of the brands i hear being used as warn, mile marker, superwinch..a few others. search around (avanced, not simple) a bit and you should find a bit more info

well, i searched and read for about the last 1 1/2 hours on the subject..and i have just a few minor questions. i figured id go ahead and build me some considering i have access to a TON of 3" thick wall pipe and a welder at no cost, and ill soon lose access to that once the house is sold (may be soon) #1 i see most of the sliders being made of square tubing...would round stock work equally well? any disadvantages? unless serious ill go ahead as planned..mainly because thats all i have to work with. #2 iv seen some designs that stick way out complete with outriggers (if they could be called that), and iv seen some that tuck up and out about like the stock nerfies. im sure that the wider ones would help more in really bad narrow situation..but i figured most of the attack would come from beneath or at an angle. is this assumption correct? #3 as some know, i recently installed a 3" BL, and now the frame hangs down lower than the body. are these sliders primarily for the protection of the body? would i need to bring up the bars closer to my body or leave them down for added skidding for the frame? unless otherwise directed..my intentions are to pretty much build a set of sliders that mimic a beefier set of stock nerfies. and unless i really do need to bring them up alot closer...ill probably leave them about stock location due to the fact that i am rather short and looking at another 3" of SL and 1-2" from tires. im already having to do a lil hop or tip up on my toes to slide into the seat as it is

not a whole lot to add here. plenty of damage to clutch (more of a result from being dumb and stuck earlier in my driving career) busted corner light busted turn signal crunched fender twisted up front bumper smashed OEM fogs err think thats about it.

as our cars get older, the gas gauges start to peter out. after driving about 50 miles the needle is all the way on 1/4 tank left on mine. i go strictly by my odometer now or do you know for a fact that your really burning that much gas? as in..having to fill up multiple times?

my guess would be from a vac leak from the way you described it. check out all the lines runing to it. highly unlikley your diaphram ruptured.

yup, like red said...4LO is meant for things like crawling, pulling others out of a ditch, etc. its geared VERY low and creates alot of torque. use your 4 hi to keep traction in the snow, light mud, etc. and yeah, put your truck in 4 hi...watch the RPM's along with the speed. then stick it down in 4 lo, and watch teh same things. your turning alot of RPM's for only a bit of speed. going too fast in 4 lo (or even 4 hi) will cause major issues within your transfer case

ahh ok thanks for clearing that up slick. the front O2 sensor is for fuel trim and the like, this is before the cat. a sensor after the cat is strictly there to monitor cat effeciency.

sway bars are added in the lower rear for many RWD vehicles for stability during cornering. they also come in the lower front, upper front and upper rear. how a sway bar works

all a muffler is is...well just that...it muffles sound. it has absolutley no control over emissions. the only real exhaust related part that has a direct effect would be your cat. your muffler is filled with baffles, mesh wire, etc... all exhaust is somewhat "processed" i guess you could say after it leaves the cat. it dosent really do a whole lot more breaking down after that. thats why several mfg's put a 2nd o2 sensor (forget if ours have it) after the kitty to monitor effeciency and turns in a MIL if emissions are being affected due to a faulty unit

pix/description of the mystery wire? would deff help us a bit more in determining what it might run to. there is a myriad of wires near the battery

the only thing a muffler is gonna effect is your noise. its not gonna reduce actual emissions. im not sure what the reg's are in your state/area..but some wont pass a car with a more performance oriented/louder muffler. the DB level and visual would be the only things that could kill you.

bingo pick up the DIY stuff and have a ball. youll never have to worry about chiping, scratching, or moisture. and if you do somehow take a chunk or gash out...repairing will be alot easier and look like the rest of it..unlike spot repairing paint/powdercoat.

hey snake where ya been? i havent seen you on in a while (cant exactly remember how long) i had to fab my push bar to fit. i bought it off a member here for cheap and said it was for a pathy. but there wasnt a way it could fit. but a li cuttin here, and a custom set of brackets there..i had me a dandy little bit of protection

just something to add. you dont really NEED blueprints as long as you have a basic design. i just kinda made mine to my own specs. i saw the design of the ARB and just went to work with a tape measure and my imagination. deciding how far i wanted this out, or how tall to make this. and i drew out my own set of "prints" just from that. since YOU are building it, your only limited to your imagination and budget..not a mfg's specs. you can take the best from their ideas, and incorporate your own. just go out and start sizing things up after you google a few images and get some ideas. decide "hmm, i want it to be X" long here, and a bend here" just jot it all down and label it. but yeah..that "stinger" or "prerunner" bumper looks pretty hot..although i think id like a bit of added protection for the overall "bumper" area. maybe even another section of pipe down below. but deff something you could do. and like i said..you dont even need the measurements. just from my experience, i found 63" to be optimal in length for the bumper. but then decide how far out you might like the feelers and this or that. ill tell you that bracketry is simply a "fab as you go" thing. there is very little pre-planning...esp if you have a lift. good luck and let us know what you come out with. ill have pix up of mine in a bit hopefully!

im in the process of building my own ARB knock off and incorporating my push bar as well. i can tell you this...if you have no experience in building a bumper...find someone who can help you along the way. iv built 2 with help before i started in on one by myself. unfortunatley, mounting points for a pathy isnt quite as easy as say...a chevy. without a doubt..designing and figuring mounts has taken the biggest chunk of time. of course mine has also taken additional time because im building it to accomidate a winch..but still. if you want to build it right, and never have before...i suggest help. as far as blueprints...i wouldent count on any floating around. i think ppl do their measurements and whatnot..but youll learn that changes are constantly occouring. my BEST suggestion...look for a push bar like mine and 88's. it sounds like it will fit the bill for you without the designing issues. id sell you mine, but its getting modified into my new one so..

niiiiice harbie looks a TON better and as far as the toolbox character..yeah..it was different alright lol for at least a temporary (or permanent) solution to your hole in the dash...looks like a dandy place for one of those little liquid filled ball compases

before you go to cranking it up, while your draining all the fluids, take out the spark plugs and give the engine a few turns. you can use teh starter for that..just unplug your fuel pump or something..your just wanting to make sure you get the water out. leave the plugs out for a couple days or something and coat the inside with WD-40 or the like to prevent rust in the mean time. also there might be a secondary computer under the head unit. i forget what this is for..but i have one in my 91..and i know its not an auto-tranny computer. maybe for the ABS?

yup, thats a good writeup by filthy. or you can do like im doing and hand build a bumper that accomidates a receiver but seriously, follow his instructions and you should be good to go. its a lil more difficult if you have a BL tho..thats whats takin me alot of time

why would you go through all that when you can order a kit thats been used and proven to work on all WD-21's without incident. one that includes the correct bolts so there is no going to another supplier and "probably" finding one and paying through the nose. for 15 more dollars shipped you can get all the correct parts and peace of mind that your dealing with people that know your vehicle. who knows how much greif youd have to go through to get the correct parts on time if you have some 'tard arguing with you about your truck's build, and then trying to find correct bolts. and im sure with taxes they want, it would be cheaper gonig with AC

yeah, just get your kit from AC...its like 134 and some change shipped. then no dealing with some unknown kit..or the guys stupidity

IIRC they are not the right shape...as in leading back to the collection pipes

i think the dashes for all wd-21's (86-95) are pretty much the same. i believe some HVAC controls are slightly diff tho, so youll just have to check. as far as teh locks situation..yes this is normal. you must hold the handle up in order for it to remain locked when you shut it

i mean..im not trying to be hard on the guy..but there have been just too many things that throw up flags for me right off there is an offer to redesign/host NPORA, then the manuals, then the countless comments about joining his site to answer tech questinons on here, and joining his site to PM him... i have no doubts the guy is trying to find out a bit about his pathy on the side...but i do think alot of his posts are a ploy to gain hits on his site. i wish the guy all the luck in the world on his truck, but the spamming does need to end...because thats what it is. it may not be as intentional as we think, but its happening none-the-less and thanks precice for takin care of it. now i think you can see why people were a bit testy in his build up post. i think several people (myself included) have been a bit skeptical the entire time. i dont think anyone was trying to be mean spirited...but the fact was...it was like "hey, ok, redoin my truck here...come look at my site. hey, just did this, check out my site for updates. hey, did this today join my site to pm me..."