DSM_guy

just something to add. you dont really NEED blueprints as long as you have a basic design. i just kinda made mine to my own specs. i saw the design of the ARB and just went to work with a tape measure and my imagination. deciding how far i wanted this out, or how tall to make this. and i drew out my own set of "prints" just from that. since YOU are building it, your only limited to your imagination and budget..not a mfg's specs. you can take the best from their ideas, and incorporate your own. just go out and start sizing things up after you google a few images and get some ideas. decide "hmm, i want it to be X" long here, and a bend here" just jot it all down and label it. but yeah..that "stinger" or "prerunner" bumper looks pretty hot..although i think id like a bit of added protection for the overall "bumper" area. maybe even another section of pipe down below. but deff something you could do. and like i said..you dont even need the measurements. just from my experience, i found 63" to be optimal in length for the bumper. but then decide how far out you might like the feelers and this or that. ill tell you that bracketry is simply a "fab as you go" thing. there is very little pre-planning...esp if you have a lift. good luck and let us know what you come out with. ill have pix up of mine in a bit hopefully!

im in the process of building my own ARB knock off and incorporating my push bar as well. i can tell you this...if you have no experience in building a bumper...find someone who can help you along the way. iv built 2 with help before i started in on one by myself. unfortunatley, mounting points for a pathy isnt quite as easy as say...a chevy. without a doubt..designing and figuring mounts has taken the biggest chunk of time. of course mine has also taken additional time because im building it to accomidate a winch..but still. if you want to build it right, and never have before...i suggest help. as far as blueprints...i wouldent count on any floating around. i think ppl do their measurements and whatnot..but youll learn that changes are constantly occouring. my BEST suggestion...look for a push bar like mine and 88's. it sounds like it will fit the bill for you without the designing issues. id sell you mine, but its getting modified into my new one so..

niiiiice harbie looks a TON better and as far as the toolbox character..yeah..it was different alright lol for at least a temporary (or permanent) solution to your hole in the dash...looks like a dandy place for one of those little liquid filled ball compases

before you go to cranking it up, while your draining all the fluids, take out the spark plugs and give the engine a few turns. you can use teh starter for that..just unplug your fuel pump or something..your just wanting to make sure you get the water out. leave the plugs out for a couple days or something and coat the inside with WD-40 or the like to prevent rust in the mean time. also there might be a secondary computer under the head unit. i forget what this is for..but i have one in my 91..and i know its not an auto-tranny computer. maybe for the ABS?

yup, thats a good writeup by filthy. or you can do like im doing and hand build a bumper that accomidates a receiver but seriously, follow his instructions and you should be good to go. its a lil more difficult if you have a BL tho..thats whats takin me alot of time

why would you go through all that when you can order a kit thats been used and proven to work on all WD-21's without incident. one that includes the correct bolts so there is no going to another supplier and "probably" finding one and paying through the nose. for 15 more dollars shipped you can get all the correct parts and peace of mind that your dealing with people that know your vehicle. who knows how much greif youd have to go through to get the correct parts on time if you have some 'tard arguing with you about your truck's build, and then trying to find correct bolts. and im sure with taxes they want, it would be cheaper gonig with AC

yeah, just get your kit from AC...its like 134 and some change shipped. then no dealing with some unknown kit..or the guys stupidity

IIRC they are not the right shape...as in leading back to the collection pipes

i think the dashes for all wd-21's (86-95) are pretty much the same. i believe some HVAC controls are slightly diff tho, so youll just have to check. as far as teh locks situation..yes this is normal. you must hold the handle up in order for it to remain locked when you shut it

i mean..im not trying to be hard on the guy..but there have been just too many things that throw up flags for me right off there is an offer to redesign/host NPORA, then the manuals, then the countless comments about joining his site to answer tech questinons on here, and joining his site to PM him... i have no doubts the guy is trying to find out a bit about his pathy on the side...but i do think alot of his posts are a ploy to gain hits on his site. i wish the guy all the luck in the world on his truck, but the spamming does need to end...because thats what it is. it may not be as intentional as we think, but its happening none-the-less and thanks precice for takin care of it. now i think you can see why people were a bit testy in his build up post. i think several people (myself included) have been a bit skeptical the entire time. i dont think anyone was trying to be mean spirited...but the fact was...it was like "hey, ok, redoin my truck here...come look at my site. hey, just did this, check out my site for updates. hey, did this today join my site to pm me..."

i still agree with what whoever said in the other thread....i think he is just trollin for members here

nope...this was ooooh late october 04 when i changed starter, i just got my lift put on this weekend i mean it wasnt FUN, but it sure wasnt the crap yall mentioned. tight fit and a bit frustrating at times but it was 10x easier than say....removing the oil filter. now that i do have the lift tho, i think those things will be MUCH easier hehehe. oh and good call on the pond liner stuff. i need to replace all my engine skirting and make some gap-guards for the rear

youll laugh when i say this. but when i lifted up my body, i did so there between the doors just like in the writeup, but i couldent get enough rear lift. so after getting the front 8 blocks in, i let it all down, then stuck a jack with a small peice of 2x4 on top INSIDE the wheel well. with the jack seated right on the top of the tire. hahah thats wheel clearance right there! but yeah, then just lifted it up a bit and slid the blocks in. i woulda done something like your T job..but it was late and i was ready to get it all over with as little thinking and exertion as possible lol

naw vsicks, i thought id become part of the "cool" crowd and blame bush...hey, he is responsible for all our hurricanes...i think he has some kinda secret conspiracy against body lifts most of today was spend reattaching lines to the frame and that type of pidly stuff. not really anything else to add to the list. as far a bumpers im going aftermarket (or rather..hand built) both F&R...so their crappy brackets can just....well you get the idea. i spent the rest of the day and part of this evening getting my custom brackets figured out for the winch bumper. as soon as its all bolted/welded up and whatnot, i promise pics! i drove around the pastures today in my newly lifted pathy...and i must say i love it. the entire truck looks a helluva lot better. you must admit...from the factory pathies look kinda docile and harmles. you add a few things here and there..throw on some lift, bigger tires, and a REAL bumper...and your well on your way to lookin pretty bad-ass but while i am happy...im not happy enough. im plannin for a JGCC lift with air springs very soon. then may go with the calmini 4" lift some day to get even more lift. and those 31's are startin to look a lil puny....33's anyone? muhahah -alcohol-

exactly what i have. and just a tidbit...the fog lights are bosch too

yeah, mine was factory optioned.

yup, mine looked like that. and my connectino didnt look stock either. they used one of those light blue boxy lookin crimps to siphon off from the main wire. one of those wire (i think its yellow) then goes inside, maybe the PO just found that and used it for a trigger. but still , i redid mine the correct way. and how funny is it that the fog's rate a relay..but not the headlights? i swear...

ok, well while doing my BL today..i got tired of the OEM rat nest of wireing in the engine bay behind the battery. and i have a couple bits of info for you. there is an OEM splice job on the low beam wire on the pass side. it is a purple wire, and it runs to the relay on your firewall...so thats probably teh wireing and one of the relays you encountered. i took mine out because i dont use that as my trigger wire for my fogs.

well, i did the 3" BL from AC today on my 1991 SE 4x4. here are some additional observations or differences from some of the main writeups here. #1 the little plastic tabs that cover 4 of the bolt heads (2 per side) are an utter BEAST to get off. i took a hammer and a screwdriver and annhilated mine. their glued to the body and to the bold heads..or at least they were in mine. nobody said what a bitch these are..so be prepared #2 i did not have to replace my upper rad hose with a longer one...mine is just fine, but i will have to trim the lower due to the kink. #3 after about 45 min of fiddling around and trying to line up the rear bolt holes...i noticed something. AC throws in the black bolts for....whatever years im not sure. i thought all 90-95 used the black rear bolts. this was not the case on my 91. i ended up using the 2nd pair of metric fine-thread bolts in the rear. #4 yes, the rear most bolts are a b*tch. not only because their a pain to aline, but because some numbskull decided to stick a free floating nut up in the mount...but there is no way to get at or hold the nut for alighment. you have to be dead on..and its very frustrating. it took me longer to do the rear 2 than the entire other 8 combined. #5 as far as the ps resivoir is concerned...i went ahead and just drilled new holes. the bracket needed to move a grand total of 1/2 inch..and i was too lazy (not to mention cheap) to go out and buy new hoses, new fluid, drain the resi, and bleed it. #6 you need a BIG freakin jack...or at least alot of stuff you can put under your stocker. i ended up using 2 stockers per side..and had a 2x6, and 2 peices of a powerline crossarm (about 4x6 each), and a 2x4 on top, and i had the stockers maxed out at the dot. gave me JUST enough for 4 of the 5 mounts. the rear most bolts were a PITA and i had to lift up a bit myself to slide them in. #7 get PLENTY of zip ties in all sizes. much of the stuff you removed wil not bolt back in its normal spot. and nobdy i know wnats to go around drilling new holes for everything. most of the stuff youll unbolt has something adjacent to it that you can tie it up to. #8 when extending/installing the fuel filler and vent lines, soaking the hoses in hot water does wonders for tight fits. i got the extension peice and got the rather small tubing over the nipple without issue. #9 i dont see why some writeups say you cant get the cover for the fuel line area to fit back right...unless mine is diff it just poped into place. thats all i can think of for the moment..im pooped. if i encounter or think of any more ill be sure to post them. of course this was just my experience..yours may vary a bit. even tho its a bit of a PITA the results are WELL worth it. i never knew 3" could actually make such a difference. ill have pix up on sunday probably..tomorrow i have to spend the day finishing and mounting my new bumpers on and finish up the piddly stuff from the BL install. i highly reccomend this mod.

when you go offroading, its generally a good idea to lower your tire pressure down to around 10psi for a larger contact patch and greater flexibility and grip. well, when it comes time to air back up to go home..youd better have SOMETHING to air them back up with

naw deej, strictly for shock absorber control. it even has a lil picture of a shock

yeah, i dunno, i have that option as well and i never felt any difference

hmm, maybe they didnt?? now that you mention it..was that one of the thing in the "headlight rewire" writeup? which reminds me..i ought to do that sometime. as far as the voltmeter/test light. admitedly...i RARELY ever use my meter. i have an el-cheap test light and it works wonders. you can get a large one anywhere for under $5 and you can get a small pocket sized one (about the size of a sharpie marker) at radio shack for under $2. iv installed 2 alarms, 3 headunits, and multiple other peices of electronic equip with just my trusty testlight. id advise you to pick one up before you go too much further. with as screwy as automotive wiring is..you do NOT wanna start plugging up to the wrong wires and burning stuff out. but it sounds like your motoring right along. i hate wireing with a passion..too much cramped spaces and frustration and time involved in it all. after a day of wiring im about brain dead from the entire ordeal

there is no telling what it will hold till you know how its designed. you generally have to have some sort of "strong point" if-you-will to attatch a bumper. winch bumpers are specially built and braced so. this bumper...to be honest...probably wouldent hold one if you could even get one to fit some place. youd have to modify it a good deal for things to hold up. the other viable option i can see is using a receiver mounted winch and modifying the bumper to accomidate a class 3 hitch. this just looks to be a tougher built bumper...not wimpy in the least, but not designed for winching applications as far as looks..i do like it. me personally id end up putting a pre-runner bar or something up top

you sir need a voltmeter...or at least a test light. FSM's are generally correct, but can sometimes provide faulty info. if your searching under the dash for this red wire...it should control BOTH headlights..not just one. that shouldent split till your after the headlight relay (id think anyways)