DSM_guy

i have my amp mounted TO my box, that way i can unhook the rca jacks, remote, and power/ground wires real fast and pull the amp and sub out all at once. but yes, to answer your question the speakers you have will all fit in the existing stock locations.

correct me if im wrong...but arent aftermarket UCA's pretty much needed to do the lifting job right? you might sacrifice one thing for another, but welcome to cars. you change one thing...you may lose another. i mean, i know you can use the BJ spacers for the stock arms...but i was under the assumption that if you wanna do it RIGHT, you need to pony up the dough and get aftermarkets? also, another question that was raised...if you use lift UCA's, do you get more lift from your stock t-bars? as i mentioned earlir...i thought stockers were only good for about 2" of lift max. after you swap uca's do you get more lift then? or is that where re-indexing come in? and dang 88, your pathy looks HOT! that is some flex! and all you did for that is the bl, sl, shocks, and tires?

makes perfect sense. the best solution (and it will happen) will be to just replace with heavy duty t-bars im sure. thanks a million guys, there has been much help given here. hopefully this will clear up a few other peoples questions in the future as well.

ok....so just making sure i read correctly, aftermarket UCA's do NOT give any lift. they only correct the BJ angle when you lift your front end whatever distance they are designed for? and another comment above sparked a question. as far as factory t bars go...i thought you could only get about 1.5-2" of lift outta them? is that because of the stock UCA's? if i upgrade to aftermarket UCA's will i be able to get more lift out of the stockers? thanks guys..yall have been a huge help

ok, well i have been looking at doing both a BL and a SL. i have been reading about ways to raise the front end after the JGC SL. i have seen posts about calmini and a few others brands of 3" lift UCA's. here is my question....does bolting on one of those automatically GIVE you 3" of lift? or is that UCA engineered to correct everything in the event of a 3" lift from say.....aftermarket torsion bars? sorry if it sounds confusing, couldent find a better way to put it. tia!

im not considering ditching my pathy...but im looking at buying a motorcycle. where ill be returning to school and living for the next 6 years...as well as owning a cabin only accessable through a 4x4 only road....i need my pathy

i put "internet search..." but it wasnt because i was trying to find out how to do anything specific to my pathy. i have learned internet forums are a GREAT source of info with my eclipse. i am a member of numerous DSM, buick, and the 2 pathy forums.

cars must be in runnning condition or drivable, no parts or dead vehicles. on or off road...street legal or not..dosent matter. this does not only apply to pathy's or 4x4's. personally i have 3...refer to sig

drove a wrangler. slow as piss and it felt/sounded like driving a tin can on wheels

if you want a cheap light bar and you already have the OEM cargo rack you can use one of the large bars...thats what i did. take a drill, make the holes, bolt on the lights. as far as wiring you need to link them all together, run the power wire to a relay, ground the grounding wires (duh), install a trigger wire with switch, finish hooking up the relay. not hard at all. took me an afternoon to do everything. as for my lights...baja walmart specials. their plenty bright and i wont cry if someone steals them (lets face it, all they gotta do is unscrew a couple knobs and clip the wire) or they get knocked off. personally they light up the entire way like its daylight out...for 40 bux for all 4...plus im not rollin in the dough enough to be spending hundreds of dollars on designer brand lights. EDIT: im feeling nice..here is how/where i mounted my lights..and here is also a wiring schematic as you can see the blue trigger wire runs from an ignition source (key position 'on') to a switch (to turn on the lights) then runs to the relay which has the ground, power (from batt), and power lead (red to lights) also connected to it. i think the rest is pretty self explanatory.

from what ive heard ideal mounting is directly in line or slightly above your shoulders...although slightly downward (no more than 45*) is also acceptable. like someone mentioned above...your shoulder is the highest mounting point. if you have your harness lashed right behind the seat to the floor, your shoulder is the highest point in the arc created by the belt line. if you do end up hitting something and abrubly stopping the pressure of you moving foward is going to be put directly on your shouldrs. it would be like someone jumping on your back all of the sudden...hence compressing the spine. and trust me..if your wearing a harness correctly..you should not be moving at all..and your body is already under some tension..but you throw alot more on it...suddenly, youll screw your back up royally.

any stock 3 point seatbelt will keep you safe in a wreck. the deal with the harnesses is that when something happens, you dont have to wait for the belt locks to engage. you also do very little moving around in a harness versus an OEM system. there isnt the sliding all around and trying to keep yourself in the seat. the harness holds you down and holds you down good. as far as mounting. you should never mount your straps at more than a 45* angle. any more than that and you can get spinal compression if you get in a wreck. if you didnt wanna install a bar in your cab you could utilize the top anchor point on the rear passenger belts. i have that done in my eclipse.

i use the valvoline high mileage stuff works pretty well, and has slowed my oil leaks.

thanks for the tip! where is my heat exchanger?

thanks guys. i tried the baited spring trap with gum, peanut butter, and cheese...no dice. i DONT wanna use the poision...for reasons stated above. locking a cat in the car...aint happnin heh. im in texas and its july. that thing will be dead in 15 minutes...even in the shade. so i guess glue traps it is. thanks again!

my pathy isnt my daily driver..it only sees action when i need it to (snow season or when the eclipse breaks down) so it sits alot. well, about a year ago i noticed rat pellets in my floor and seats on occasion. it kinda trailed off for a while. i put traps all over the car and never caught anything. well i got in it the other day, and was driving through a field. well the trim peice around my center vents is gone...so you can see down into the inner dash. well all the sudden i see a mouse poke his head up, look at me, and disappear back down into my dash! yup hes definately back. that was about a month ago. now my car smells like rat pee..i think. either that or he died. anywho. anyone know any way to get rid of this little bugger? i tried the baited rat traps, too smart for those. i do NOT need him in there chewing up all my wires. any suggestions would be great.

seems thats a popular trick in ex-soviet countries. my dad is a missionary in ukraine. one time he got pickpocketed. they called him a few hours later and wanted all this money for it. he had like $2, an american express he had cancelled a few hours before, and on old drivers licence only for ID purposes. neeedless to say....he declined their offer and told them to keep it. dont ya konw they were bummed.

no, the reason the whole t-shirt thing failed is because after begging and pleading for the origional picture depicted in the design, nobody made an attempt to get it to me. therefore, no hi res image...no t shirt. i could only do so much. it was not an unsurmountable project, and it WAS gonna be simple. if id have gotten the image i asked for the design was already done. all i had to do was slap in the hi res image and email it to whatever t-shirt designer anywhere in the world. i coulda had it done in 5 minutes and we would have already been enjoying our shirts. nobody can say i didnt try my hardest to get this rolling. but a thank you to those who DID put forth the effort to help me out, sorry we couldent get this done.

ok guys, well nothing is gonna get done untill i get that image. i cant do anything else, and with no design we have no shirts...its up to yall.

oh yeah, no doubt, its got 240,600 miles on her. been through the family, then me and my little bro (esp him) put it through hell. i wasnt too bad, just did some wheelin. but reading yalls stuff i though of a couple more things! rear hatch struts are shot (didnt think of it cuz im just used to using the peice of PVC i keep in the back!) drivers side armrest is cracked horribly. oh, and up near the collectors i have a gasket that is gone...so exhaust leak there and...i have a leak in my PS pump...oh well lol but the thing is that all sounds bad...but to tell you the truth..they are pretty minor! i think its pretty funny really, but its still pretty reliable.

well, i figured it would be fun for everyone to share whats wrong/dosent work on their pathfinders just for fun..so here goes. vac leak somewhere in engine, causing annoying whistle and high idle of course, i am another victim of the exhaust manifold warpage front windshield washer fluid motor went out, so im currently using the pump designed for the REAR nozzle to spray my windshield. oil leak from head engine is....getting up there in miles and noticible loss in compression vents up near windshield are about to fly off im afraid door must be unlocked from passenger side because cheap plastic connecting the tumbler to the rod that activates the door locks broke. when i did have the ability to unlock from the drivers side, only the drivers and rear drivers doors would unlock...both pass sides wont. when i lock the doors, all of them lock with the master except the rear passenger drivers rear window no worky vent surrounds in the center dash and passenger side have been ripped out by my brother. ill fitting CD player sticks out of well about 1" or so. our radio pocket is SMALL! gas gauge is weird. after i fill up, 20 miles down the road its at half lol. but i guess its better than none at all like it was when i got it. fixed that. broken fan blade on blower motor or something. when i turn the air to "3" the entire dash shakes...its quite interesting. i have a leak somewhere in the rear of the cargo area...causing water to come inside and soak my carpet on occasion. dash is cracking annoying creak when i turn hard over hills pretty sure AC compressor is flipping me the bird rear wiper/washer no longer works open hatch button no longer works on dash rear defroster...no work cruise control...has trouble keeping proper speed um, i think thats it for now. im sure that i am leaving some things out, but share what makes your pathy unique! lol

no, what i need is the origional UN ALTERED picture that was taken from the vid cam. most digi cams still capture stuff in 72 DPI, but the images are captured around 11x24" size, so upping the res and droping the size is no problem. the problem i have here is an image thats 4x5" and 72ppi. it cant be sucessfully upsized. i need the large shot so i can downsize slightly and up the res. hope that all made sense. basically, i need the origional file from mr. jim

yeah man, i got the email. but i need the origional pic. see...when you put things on the web, the resolution is brought down to 72ppi/dpi so that it dosent take forever and a day to open up. regular prints and hi res images are in the neighborhood of 300 ppi/dpi. i need one that is hi res. the one in the link you sent me is lo res 72. im afriad if we try and use that size it MAY come out pixelated

so whats the final price? i saw at fee of $7 and some change from the screeners. does that include the cost of the shirt or no? if so, i figure 15 shipped woud be a good price to go at. regardless, put me down for one white and one black. but remember guys. i need HIGH RESOLUTION IMAGES of the jumping pathy on the back to get the files done. also i need to know what file TYPE i need to convert this into...cuz the sooner the better. im graduating in a week exactly, and i have a host of programs and fast computers to work with if i can just get the info and hi res files. whoever has the origional pic of the leaping pathy i need it sent to me ASAP. also, the hi res image for the front i will need in a JPEG format. the one posted right now is some kinda weird file that i cant open in an editing software. please send to bigbean@email.com BTW great to hear somebody got on this. i was almost wondering if we were gonna get these done or not. good going guys!

here is a quick idea of what the logo with more detail might look like.