DSM_guy

sorry to hear dude just goes to show that no matter how great things may seem outwardly, you never know whats boiling just beneath the surface. you could see someone with all the blessings and cham in the world...but that dosent mean they arent tourmented inside. another less of "dont judge a book by its cover". not that anyone is to blame...and not that anyone should have tried harder. you cannot read the inside of a person like you can a book...just saying that even seemingly happy people can do this..not just those that are obviously down in the dumps. as far as religions references go...i think something better than a movie could have been used but unfortunatley thats the gist of what the bible does say. and as far as wheather he was baptized or not makes no difference. that does not absolve you from your actions, it merely brings you to another level with God, and shows you accept and know his word and whats expected of you, and you are given the opportunity to ask forgivness. in his case...there is no way to ask now, thats why it is believed to be a crime punishible by hell because you have no time after to ask forgiveness. you may surley go to hell even if you are baptized. didnt really wanna bring this thing up, but since it was brought up...and misquoted..i felt teh need to set the record straight. but that was a bit out of line considering there were only mentions of prayers for the family. i think its understood that he was in the wrong, but no need to bring it up so hatefully.

i cant offer much input, but i can suggest this. i think some mfg's have taken steps to prevent defrauding like this..and if you remove the fuse your car MAY not start. i have heard instances where you must have that fuse in. im not sure if this is the case but you may not get to test your theory. im not saying you are trying to do this....but people do try, and there are mfg's that have taken big steps to combat this, so that may throw a hex on the whole thing in your case.

i cant tell from the pic wheather its plastic or metal but i can tell you this...it wont last long. since the air will have nowhere to go youll create a tremendous pressure inside the scoop. if you use the tape...its only a matter of time before it fly's off. if you rivet it and bondo it in...if its plastic youll be seeing cracks in your filler in no time...and if metal a short while later. i know this becaue those people that mold in those fake roof scoops (like the eclipse from TF&TF) ALWAYS experience cracking in the filler or fiberglass. if you ran the air (such as cutting your hood) somehwere you would greatly cut down on the pressure buildup. if you want something truly functional, get or cut some small vents/louvers into your hood, or put a small riser on. both will creat neg air pressure and actually help to draw out hot air from your engine bay. for a lil cheap riser mod i have heard of people putting small spacers on the hinges at the back and it rises up a lil to give you more space at the back. i cant honestly think of too many hood scoops today that are actually functional. most are blocked off right at the front. and unless you have a carbed pathy, you wont get the ram air effect. but i see your a 95 so thats completley out. my suggestion is to just move on. in my personal opinion...if its not functional..dont waste the money on putting it on..but thats just my .02 but if you REALLY wanna do this...i suggest either cutting your hood or cutting a lil out of the back of the scoop to where air can escape. that stress is gonna be the #1 killer.

no, you must have a negative in order for the lights to work. you would need to cut the positive lead running to your origional blinker and splice that into your positive to your running lights. althought im thinking you may have to also cut the positive that runs to the parking lamps or else you may get some sorta feedback. doing all this will render your running lights useless...which may or may not be a problem. the only other alternative is to find a dual filament bulb/boot combination to where you can just hook up the other positive lead to the blinker. right now you just have 2 wires running into your running lights. a positive and a neg, and your bulb only has one fillament. with a dual filament, youd have 2 positives and 1 negative wires, and 2 filments. that way you could still save your running lights. they wired it this way because the running lights were completly seperate from the turn signals. in other vehicles both the running and turn lights are teh same thing...but they utilize a dual fillament 3 wire setup. the easiest would be like i said, just cut the running light lead and splice a wire from the turn signal lead to the old running light lead runing into the bulb boot. you wont have your running lights (check your local laws) but youll get the restults you wanted.

if your anywhere in the US tampering with a cat is illegal under federal law. to be honestly in a lower displacement NA engine...your better off just sticking with your cat or a high flow. its not worth the extra power really, adn you dont really GAIN anything back. you just shift your power band to the higher rpm's instead of lower. i say just leave it and do other exhaust work or other mods. if you realy must get a glasspack cuz it will be raspy as all getout if you just straight pipe it

eh? :contract: :contract: :contract: haha sorry, couldent resist

just either get an alarm and/or install a fuel pump or ignition kill switch somewhere. much cheaper than this fancy smancy deal your talking about. heck, my alarm even has a similar feature to what your wanting. you can program it to where you have 30 or so seconds to start the car from the time you open the door and if you fail to do so you must enter a code before your alarm controlled kill switch will disengage and allow the vehicle to be started. got it from crutchfield for 200 bones. came with everything i needed for the auto ignition kill switch, keyless entry, and a host of programmable features like i mentioned. but even a mech switch for the fuel pump would be good ins. the thing you also have to tell yourself tho..is if someone REALLY wants your car..they will get it. you can do your best and spend lots of money on protection, but the fact is that if someone wants it bad enough they will find a way, u just have to pray you dont end up getting hit. also as i have stated before, alot of break ins arent to take your car, but rather to take your toys out of it. gauges, stereos, speakers, cb's...their looking for a quick smash and grab and for something to hock and ebay or at the pawn shop. thats why i also reccoment putting an alarm siren INSIDE the vehicle.

haha, if you do that i will KEEEEL you! i realize your joking, lol but just had to threaten ya about the only engine swap id do is the 2.7TD. that or something like a straight 6 from a supra...torquey little bugger

jeez, the best i ever got was 350, i probably get 320 or so now to a tank. some of the stuff like keeping the antenna down and taking off the bars might have helped, but i can tell you what was most responsible was your tune up...esp the o2 sensor. too many times people change the cap/rotor and some plugs/wire but neglect the single BIGGEST factor of fuel milage of all. i need to swap out my o2 on the pathy. i swaped the one out in my dsm and now i get nearly 40mpg. i can get 500+ miles outta about 13 gallons of gas with no fuel light on. i used to only get 420 WITH the fuel light on. probably improved my MPG by 8 or so.

hmm, i dunno. i have noticed at times there seems to be a tension on the lock cables and sometimes if you go to lock it up it will rebound and unlock. i guess something gets bound up in there and the lock dosent fully engage adn just pops back unlocked. but this usually happens to me right then and there so i can try it again..not 5, 10, 30 minutes later or longer. if you have keyless entry you might look at the brain or maybe someone has a similar frenquency where you park that may trigger your brain on accident.

save the money on the labor for the headers install. installing a cone filter is a snap. just pick up an adapter plate for a maxima (i think seach around to be sure) at your local auto parts store, pick up a cone filter, and some gasket material (i guess that could be optional). you have to drill out a couple mounting holes wider but other than that turning a few wrenches and screwdrivers is all thats needed. and sorry if im cuel, but im honest. i just dont want to see you spend alot of money on what can pretty much be summed up as a lost cause. no use in spending alot of money for minimal gains, as i said earlier they could be put to better use...to a use more suited for the truck. we arent dealing with mod happy 350's or whatever

and also one of the most expensive. we all know of the lack of power, we all wished our werent so slow, but the fact is...its just somethign you have to live with. do a little intake and maybe some exhaust work. the point here is that the engine from a 2 seater turbo car was never meant to pull around 5000lbs of 4 door mass. there is really no cost effective way to up the hp on our cars. the cheapest would be to remove excess weight or just throw on a cone filter or drop in filter for 30-40 bucks. the next up is exhast work and IMO the gain from the headers probably isnt worth it. i feel the reason most pathy owners end up swapping (esp wd21's) is because of the problems associated with our stock mani. other than that, your not gonna see much of a gain. the $ to hp ratio is vast. believe me, we know they are slow and dog out alot. the cheapest solution to all of this is to do what most of us do...just accept the fact that the engine was mismatched to the application and the vehicle is slow as piss...and just go on driving it anyways. the 4 banger in my DSM puts out more hp than the v6 in my pathy...and weights half as much! my suggestion is to just throw on a cone filter. much better than a drop in IMO and after you remove all the airbox and sound deadning crap associated with it...your pathy will sound MEAN! its seriously growls...i love it. much louder than the exhaust. that way you can at least SOUND like your going fast haha. seriously tho, if your looking for just a litle, do a filter. anything past that your gonna get into $300 and up per application and the need and gains to me are not justified.

hmm, seems to me like its just a modified version of fiber optics. rather than used only to send light over distances, theyve modified the conductor to emmit light all around. i could be wrong but it looks like thats the case.

correct me if im wrong slick, but i thought that we couldent use 300zx heads, so more than likley the manifolds wouldnet even bolt up...much less fit in the bay. so youd have to get a flange blank made for the pathy heads, then custom fab up a manifold, then re-route all the exhaust setup and also the intake charge pipe. youd have to y them into one. and then comes the point of stepping up the fuel system and correcting the computer to see boost. TT in a pathy would be a gross waste of time and effort, and money! as far as power...eh. its a sad reality that our pathies are pretty underpowered. i think a few tips and tricks here, but youll never get much. with all the power you dump int your rig to make it go fast you could have a real offroading machine. want acceleration and hp out of a vg30 motor? go BUY a TT 300zx. i threw on a cone filter and did some tuning up. picks up decent but is still doggedly slow, then again pathys werent mean to be fast anyways

in short a relay is a switch of sorts. what you do is get a constant hot running from the battery to provide power, you have your ground for obvious reasons, you have your power wire which runs to whatever your wanting to power wheather it be a horn, lights, whatever, and you have a trigger which is often a switchable positive. a switchable 12V lead is one that has power when you turn the key to the acc or on position. the reason for using a relay is that you should never just run anything off a switchable 12v source that draws much power, youll blow out a fuse. also it keeps you from running large gauge constant hot wire all through your cabin. in a sense a relay works as an electromagnetic gate. when in the "at rest" state, there is no power running through the trigger wire to the relay, nor is there any power running to your accessories (lights, horn, etc). when power is sent through the trigger wire, it activates an electromagnetic switch. this completes the circuit inside and allows electricity to flow from the battery, through the main power cable, and through the power wire running to the accessory. when the trigger wire is switched off, it ends the circuit and no more electricity flows through to the accessory. now when you hook up say, lights youll wanna hook up your trigger wire either to a wire thats hot when you turn on your key, or when your lights are on. then you can run it to a switch, then run the wire to the relay. a relay is meant to handle much more power and amperage draw than just a little switch. also, using a relay means only running one small wire out of the cabin into the engine rather than 2 large ones. as far as wiring your trigger. as i said earlier you can either wire it up to a wire that is hot when the key is on so you can use it independently of your headights, or you can wire it to a hot that is only hot when your headlights are on and your aux lights can work in conjunction ONLY when your headights are on. i opted to wire mine up independent of the headlights that way they can be used anytime the key is on.

when you can have a brand spaking new one for around 65 bucks..why even bother? youll gain alot of mpg back if you just replace a fowled o2 sensor with a new one. i replaced the one in my dsm recently and i honestly gained 6-8mpg. i went from about 30-32 to 38-40

um no. relays relays relays relays! go down to radio shack and pick you up one or two (depending on how many lights your running, 1 will run 4 lights fine) and wire it up just like the posted diagram. you do not just wire stuff like that together straight, thats for ameratures...and install inline fuses for the power cable.

wow, new fronty's get an avail 6 speed? as far as the x, you can only get a manual trans in the N/A versions...cant get the supercharged version in 5 spd for some odd reason.

just get a rebuilt one at the auto store. as far as worrying if they will gripe cuz there is oil on it....hit it with some carb cleaner before hand. they cant complain about what they cant see!

haha yeah, its on my list of things to do. my buddy had one on his dodge...we'd go through town yelling at people on it and such...funny as hell. im sure it has its TRUE usefulness, but we never found it..prolly never will!

i know for the 1991 models alot of car mag's put the pathy over the 4 runner...thats why we bought it over the yota as far as any other years and now...im not sure. both nowdays are pretty darn watered down in stock trim

um yeah...somehow SUV and lambo doors dont quite line up in my world...esp not our pathys and speaking of odd wheel accessories...have yall seen the new hub caps that have a little extra plastic around the edges to make it look like you have larger rims and lo pro's? it clips on just like a reg hub cap...but instead of ending where the metal rim does..it extends out another 1-2"...covering up part of your tire..making you look like you got 24's foo!

just know that you will probably have some rubbage on your springs tho if they are stock. we put 31's on my mothers 98 pathy 4x4. if you turn too sharp (which isnt all that much in a pathy) your tires will rub the springs. sounds horrible..but you get used to it after a while.

i ASSumed the water pump was driven by the timing chain/belt like on alot of other motors. maybe im wrong. i do know thats the case on my dsm...so if your water pump locks up, timing jumps, valves bend, pistons dent etc

fixed