DSM_guy

hmm, well after checking several sources...you do seem to be correct that theres seems to be no diff between V6 and V8 4x4 coils. hmm, i just guess i was going with what 88 wrote up in this page about the install. all he ever mentioned (and all i ever see mentioned on here) is the v8 coils. if that were teh case, im sure it would be easier for other ppl to find used jgc coils...since V8 ones are seeming to dry up in places. can anyone else comment/confirm this? 88?

i have to agree. i think its AWESOME your offering your services..but i think on most automotive forums people prefer function over form. lots of flashy graphics and contrast tends to make my eyes bleed. and im not even an old geezer! (22). i think a few touchups that have been mentioned are cool...but nothing too far past that.

dude...just get what YOU want. a light is a light. wheather is be round, square, blue, yellow, pink...whatever...a light is a light. pick out what best suits YOUR taste. i mean, in the grand scheme of things, aux lights are not gonna make a break your rig. i personaly went with my lights cuz they were cheap, easily replaced, and the square body/lense went along with the squareness of the bodystyle. i realize you want a good setup, but continually asking ppl what to put on YOUR vehicle just dosent make a lot of sense. its your ride, do it the way YOU want it to. nobody here is gonna be driving it or using your setup. its up to you what to use. not trying to sound like a prick...just make a few decisions for yourself

93-97 jeep grand cherokee v8 WITH AWD OR 4 WHEEL DRIVE. AFAIK 2wd will NOT work. the springs are the same length...but the spring rate is not the same.

well, in a relay..you have to have some sort of trigger wire. all that means is you need a wire with a 12V source to trip the insides of the relay to make it work. its like an "on" switch to make the relay work. when 12V from your trigger wire goes to the relay, it activates teh electromagnet in there and opens teh circuit for the power to flow from the battery to the accssory (in this case, your lights). the trigger wire is any wire that you use to activiate this relay. it can either be a constant hot in a switch (as showin in the first), it can be a wire that shows 12v when they key is on, when lights are on, when...well..anything really. when i was mentioning the trigger wire..for my setup it was anything that showed voltage when they key was in the ON or ACC position. in which case yes...you can find it right beneath the steering colum. i think its a fat white wire..but double check on your own to be sure. then you just splice into that (or whatever trigger you decide), install a toggle or rocker switch before you get the wire all the way to the relay and run it to the #86 post on the relay.

i prefer to turn off (and on) all my lights independently. so my fogs and roof can be used any time the key is turned..and of course the headlights. and to be honest, i havent used my hi beams since i moved my fogs up to my push bar. where now they really arent fogs...but rather aux lights. but that is so much brighter than even the headlights on HI. so the only switchin i do is on my fogs for brighter lights. and the only time i use my roof lights is when im way out back on some road and feelin fun. i dont use those on the highway...although with 6 lights..if someone bright-lights you...you could sure make em pay couldent you?

my schematic shows a relay...its just not labled as such because i figured ppl would see it and know what it was lol. as far as the convenience..you dont have to have the engine running to use my setup. just pop in the key and click it to ACC or ON. just like you would if you were merley wanting to listen to the radio. OP: yes, i got mine at wal mart. they sold them in packs of 2. some brand called "desert fox" or something like that. me..i DID have the roof rack, and actually took one of the larger racks and driled holes through them. whala...pretty much an OEM light rack. since you dont have a factory roof rack, i (and others probably will as well) suggest you get an aftermarket one like a yakima or thule rack. search around for more details. and just mount your lights to that. dont go drilling holes in the roof

harbie you could pretty much do the same thing. just take out the ash tray and that little peice of metal at the top. get you a peice of plexi or plastic...or even some thing gauge steel/alum and work with that. as far as the multi color switches..those are a bit more specialized and you might have to search around the net for those. or just go the normal route and get ones that light up when in use. i dunn about you, but i go nuts with a bunch of little lights everywhere..and if its not in use i just as soon not have to see it at night lol. either use the ones you got, or a nice set of clean rocker switches and call it a day. actually, if you dont really have anything layin around the house for plate material..looks like the other side of that box would yeild some clean, flat plastic to work with. then just glue or secure it somehow to the back of the trim plate...run all your wiring and pop it all back in!

walmart here...muahhahahah! but seriously, you can spend $5 or $500 for a light, its all in what your price range. i personally could never spend the money on high end lights. what with hazards and theives..id cry if a rack of $400 worth of lights disaapreard. $40 is what my top rack cost me. i can get the bulbs just about anywhere, and they make my pathway look like its daylight out. what more do ya need? as far as the rest of teh stuff...search around for some of your questions. most have been answered before. and dont bother with the "basic" search...its worthless. go to the "more options" advanced search. there is tons of good reading about pretty much every question you have asked thus far. not to harp..just lettin you know there is a few years worth of stuff cataloged in this site and i invite you to use this site to its full potential. if your just posting asking questions, your using about 1/8th of this forums (or any worthwile forums) full potential. p.s. i would not wire up any lights the way as shown in the schematic above. thats asking for a run down battery. my preference is to use a hot key trigger (a wire thats only showing power when the key is to the ON or ACC position) for your trigger wire (running to the #86 post on the realay). that way there is no way you could walk away from your car and have your lights still on. i did the origional with the foglights to my DSM..and 3 jump starts later i learned my lesson. p.p.s and since im feeling SO damn nice today..here is a schematic on what i was speaking of just now

from what i get out of it he is saying he has 2 error lights when he goes through a river or deep mud, and they wont go off till he cleans off that area...or as he referred to "the sector" sector being "an area" as far as your prob sir, id get the alternator either replaced or opened up and cleaned/rebuilt to make sure everything is in OK condition. then id either remount...or try to stay out of the mud for a while.

wal-mart eh? hmmm, i wonder if i could get them to do that here. did you just walk in and tell them what you wanted and get them with no probs? did you have to pull any springs or deal with any isht? sorry just never heard of anyone doing that at wally world lol.

hmm, well i did a search at partsamerica.com and also at autozone. none of the products listed were labled as "heavy duty". i found one brand of springs at AZ, and 2 diff brands at PA. made by duralast autozone coils TRW (PA) trw mcquay-norris (PA) mcquay norris if i cant find any heavy duty ones here....i wonder if you could send a little "birthday present" across teh border to me!

Simon, when you say "new aftermarket coils" do you mean OEM spec springs new from an auto parts joint, or do you mean aftermarket as in LIFT coils? 88, thanks much for clearing up that fear of the whole "losing the spring" deal. i just have heard of some ppl losing one and having to limp it home lookin all ghetto. and thanks A BUNCH on flagging those spacers for me. the ad said (IIRC) that it could either be used top or bottom, but im glad i didnt blow $40 on that and look like a tool. ill probably just make me some spacers out of something when the time comes round. thanks ALOT to everyone!!

hmm, well i found some 2" spacers here...made for the JGC so they should fit like a charm on the oem springs. and even if i need to modify it a lil to fit our spring mounts shouldent be that bad. what do yall think? it does have a lil keeper there on the top http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/pro...p/products_id/1

rumor is wrong, youll be fine with the BL shocks for the sus lift. iv heard rancho 9000's most commonly, followed by 5000's. also a few others are mentioned..just do a search and read up a bit 32's should look fine. even 31's i think still look decent with that much lift. over a 32 you might have to start trimming in some cases and stock rims should suffice just fine

ok well in addition to my BL (which will be here monday by the way) i also plan to go with a 3" suspension lift via JGC coils. since i have the 4 door, a carrier with a full size 31" tire, a sub box..and am currently building a sturdier rear bumper, its a pretty given fact im not gonna get a full 3" of lift. before i start searching for JGC lift springs to compensate for this, i have heard much talk about ppl using spacers ranging from .5-1" in thickness. i have looked at the suspension...and it seems that not a whole helluva lot keeps our springs in place. my question is this... how safe are these spacers??? i mean...whats to keep our springs from just sliding off? i sure dont wanna have to limp my pathy home lookin like some ghetto cruiser. i see we have a lil hump there in the middle of the spring perch (at least on the botton) but there comes a point if you used even a halfway thick spacers youd end up making it obsolete. am i just reading too much into this? sorry but im just not the type to do a half-ass mod and comprimise my saftey or reliability. i see some like "88" and a few others have utilized them with seemingly great success, but i just need a bit more clarification. thanks guys!

well, upon some closer inspection and thought...this is what "I" have devised. instead of using just one of the 2 points i mentioned...i decided ill just use both. by using a peice of angle iron i plan to use the 2 factory bolt holes in conjunction with a big freakin bolt through that little side tab...and on top of that ill spot weld it all. i should imagine all that SHOULD hold. if not, id have no clue what else to do lol. i was planning to incorporate my push bar into my new bumper (only the top) but since i know that ill now need some lower support..i think they will serve well as a base with a lil reinforcement. thanks for all the help guys! i gotta either find a place indoors to start in on this or wait till we get rain. oh and i also need to get my lift in before i finish up as well.

wow thanks alot filthy! that is quite an ingeneous setup you got there! i am trying to get a better idea on how/where you strengthened everyting up at but im sure ill find it. if not i added you to AOL and of course i know where to find you here. any pix of the beefed up reinforcements would be great tho! also... i got underneath and looked for place to mount an extra lower set of supports to mount to...kinda sketchy. i see 2 possible mounting places. one would be flat against the underside of the frame using the 2 threaded bolt holes for the factory tow hooks on each side. the other possible place would be in a vertical orientation right up against those tabs that have the oblong hole in them. they hang down right there under where the very front most body mounts are. unless there are any other places that im missin here...im thinkin maybe the factory bolt hole locations might be the best...unless otherwise noted. sorry for all the questions, just want this done right!

ok....ANOTHER question iv been lookin and reading around, and it seems that people also anchor their winch bumpers down below to the cross member. or at least it seems that way. to be honest, im wondering if i need to do this. i have built bumpers before, and we just mounted it right where the factory mounts were....slid back into the frame. im puttin in a 2" receiver hitch in the front, and gonna use one of those nifty winch mounts so i can switch back and forth between the front and back. then gonna run a peice of square tubing out between the 2 "arms" commin from the frame and mount the receiver in that peice. then weld the "shell" of the outer bumper if you will, to that peice of tubing and brace it all up. its pretty much like the ARB design outside. sorry for so many questions..i just guess im a stickler for saftey, and paranoid about getting everyting braced up right. no need in tearing off my front end when i go to use anything! ok, here is a quick lil drawing of what im sorta talkin about

ok thanks guys, i guess it was a bit of a stupid question now that i think of it, i mean there IS only one way to do it right. i guess ill just have to bite the bullet now and get the lift so i can press on with my project. oh, and another lil question realated to winch bumpers and strength. how many bolts and what grade is reccomended? do i need more than a grade 8? 10? would 4 of these suffice?

ok so sometime in the future (hopefully near future) im gonna be going for a 3" BL. right now im in the process of making my own winch bumper with the body at stock height. and of course something with that much stress wont be merley using risers to readjust the height. any suggestions? should i just wait till i lift it and then continue my fabrication? what do you guys with body lifts and aftermarket bumpers do??

also check your turn stops. they put a lil rubber "condom" of sorts over it but over the years that will wear through. then when you turn full chock and esp going over corners..it will rub metal to metal and make a god awefull squeaking noise. that could be part of the problem, and may be something that ALSO needs to be corrected..but it sounds like you have a few other issues besides that that are your main problems.

i just vote WD-21. 2 door...4 door..carbed...FI..it dosent matter, their all tough as nails.

you know, i used to think in a similar way (not quite so sharply put, nor so overgeneralizing) that i didnt see the big deal about having drinks with ppl. even up untill a few years ago. but ya know what...there really is nothing wrong with getting together and havin a few drinks as long as your safe about it. it just requires you treat it and anything associated with it with respect. wheather it be guns, cars, alcohol....they all can be very deadly when you lose respect for them. but they can also be very beneficial and enjoyable if used correctly. so to associated alcohol with death and destruction and claim that ALCOHOL itself is responsible for deaths...is a bit pointed and pretentious. as long as things are done in moderation there is no harm. if alcohol is not your forte that is fine..there are plenty of people who just dont want to drink..and i dont have a prob nor push that one anyone. you are right...there is no NEED to drink..of course there is no NEED for alot of things..its just something nice to have to relax and have a bit of fun with friends and family. but i can understand your thinking a bit. all the public schools and whatnot tell everyone under 21 that somehow alcohol magicaly causes accidents and violence and unwanted pregnancies all on its own somehow. i think this is largley an attempt to try to scare underage drinkers to stop or avoid alcohol altogether untill their of age. its all about self-control. but its all your choice..and as such, you need to understand that its OUR choice to do as we please so long as it hurts noone. nobody here has given you a hard time about NOT drinking...but the same appreciation is appreciated going the other way

several of you guys forget...it was rolled. sure, you can sell a prefectly good pathy for anwhere from 7-10,000 $'s...but thats a GOOD pathy. and yeah, i believe they give you what a dealer would pay you for it...so thats why we were expect ALOT lower. so no...7K isnt bad. you wreck and car and the value is gonna plummet. as far as buying it back..eh. she just wants her new lil car and i have enough already.