DSM_guy

i still agree with what whoever said in the other thread....i think he is just trollin for members here

nope...this was ooooh late october 04 when i changed starter, i just got my lift put on this weekend i mean it wasnt FUN, but it sure wasnt the crap yall mentioned. tight fit and a bit frustrating at times but it was 10x easier than say....removing the oil filter. now that i do have the lift tho, i think those things will be MUCH easier hehehe. oh and good call on the pond liner stuff. i need to replace all my engine skirting and make some gap-guards for the rear

youll laugh when i say this. but when i lifted up my body, i did so there between the doors just like in the writeup, but i couldent get enough rear lift. so after getting the front 8 blocks in, i let it all down, then stuck a jack with a small peice of 2x4 on top INSIDE the wheel well. with the jack seated right on the top of the tire. hahah thats wheel clearance right there! but yeah, then just lifted it up a bit and slid the blocks in. i woulda done something like your T job..but it was late and i was ready to get it all over with as little thinking and exertion as possible lol

naw vsicks, i thought id become part of the "cool" crowd and blame bush...hey, he is responsible for all our hurricanes...i think he has some kinda secret conspiracy against body lifts most of today was spend reattaching lines to the frame and that type of pidly stuff. not really anything else to add to the list. as far a bumpers im going aftermarket (or rather..hand built) both F&R...so their crappy brackets can just....well you get the idea. i spent the rest of the day and part of this evening getting my custom brackets figured out for the winch bumper. as soon as its all bolted/welded up and whatnot, i promise pics! i drove around the pastures today in my newly lifted pathy...and i must say i love it. the entire truck looks a helluva lot better. you must admit...from the factory pathies look kinda docile and harmles. you add a few things here and there..throw on some lift, bigger tires, and a REAL bumper...and your well on your way to lookin pretty bad-ass but while i am happy...im not happy enough. im plannin for a JGCC lift with air springs very soon. then may go with the calmini 4" lift some day to get even more lift. and those 31's are startin to look a lil puny....33's anyone? muhahah -alcohol-

exactly what i have. and just a tidbit...the fog lights are bosch too

yeah, mine was factory optioned.

yup, mine looked like that. and my connectino didnt look stock either. they used one of those light blue boxy lookin crimps to siphon off from the main wire. one of those wire (i think its yellow) then goes inside, maybe the PO just found that and used it for a trigger. but still , i redid mine the correct way. and how funny is it that the fog's rate a relay..but not the headlights? i swear...

ok, well while doing my BL today..i got tired of the OEM rat nest of wireing in the engine bay behind the battery. and i have a couple bits of info for you. there is an OEM splice job on the low beam wire on the pass side. it is a purple wire, and it runs to the relay on your firewall...so thats probably teh wireing and one of the relays you encountered. i took mine out because i dont use that as my trigger wire for my fogs.

well, i did the 3" BL from AC today on my 1991 SE 4x4. here are some additional observations or differences from some of the main writeups here. #1 the little plastic tabs that cover 4 of the bolt heads (2 per side) are an utter BEAST to get off. i took a hammer and a screwdriver and annhilated mine. their glued to the body and to the bold heads..or at least they were in mine. nobody said what a bitch these are..so be prepared #2 i did not have to replace my upper rad hose with a longer one...mine is just fine, but i will have to trim the lower due to the kink. #3 after about 45 min of fiddling around and trying to line up the rear bolt holes...i noticed something. AC throws in the black bolts for....whatever years im not sure. i thought all 90-95 used the black rear bolts. this was not the case on my 91. i ended up using the 2nd pair of metric fine-thread bolts in the rear. #4 yes, the rear most bolts are a b*tch. not only because their a pain to aline, but because some numbskull decided to stick a free floating nut up in the mount...but there is no way to get at or hold the nut for alighment. you have to be dead on..and its very frustrating. it took me longer to do the rear 2 than the entire other 8 combined. #5 as far as the ps resivoir is concerned...i went ahead and just drilled new holes. the bracket needed to move a grand total of 1/2 inch..and i was too lazy (not to mention cheap) to go out and buy new hoses, new fluid, drain the resi, and bleed it. #6 you need a BIG freakin jack...or at least alot of stuff you can put under your stocker. i ended up using 2 stockers per side..and had a 2x6, and 2 peices of a powerline crossarm (about 4x6 each), and a 2x4 on top, and i had the stockers maxed out at the dot. gave me JUST enough for 4 of the 5 mounts. the rear most bolts were a PITA and i had to lift up a bit myself to slide them in. #7 get PLENTY of zip ties in all sizes. much of the stuff you removed wil not bolt back in its normal spot. and nobdy i know wnats to go around drilling new holes for everything. most of the stuff youll unbolt has something adjacent to it that you can tie it up to. #8 when extending/installing the fuel filler and vent lines, soaking the hoses in hot water does wonders for tight fits. i got the extension peice and got the rather small tubing over the nipple without issue. #9 i dont see why some writeups say you cant get the cover for the fuel line area to fit back right...unless mine is diff it just poped into place. thats all i can think of for the moment..im pooped. if i encounter or think of any more ill be sure to post them. of course this was just my experience..yours may vary a bit. even tho its a bit of a PITA the results are WELL worth it. i never knew 3" could actually make such a difference. ill have pix up on sunday probably..tomorrow i have to spend the day finishing and mounting my new bumpers on and finish up the piddly stuff from the BL install. i highly reccomend this mod.

when you go offroading, its generally a good idea to lower your tire pressure down to around 10psi for a larger contact patch and greater flexibility and grip. well, when it comes time to air back up to go home..youd better have SOMETHING to air them back up with

naw deej, strictly for shock absorber control. it even has a lil picture of a shock

yeah, i dunno, i have that option as well and i never felt any difference

hmm, maybe they didnt?? now that you mention it..was that one of the thing in the "headlight rewire" writeup? which reminds me..i ought to do that sometime. as far as the voltmeter/test light. admitedly...i RARELY ever use my meter. i have an el-cheap test light and it works wonders. you can get a large one anywhere for under $5 and you can get a small pocket sized one (about the size of a sharpie marker) at radio shack for under $2. iv installed 2 alarms, 3 headunits, and multiple other peices of electronic equip with just my trusty testlight. id advise you to pick one up before you go too much further. with as screwy as automotive wiring is..you do NOT wanna start plugging up to the wrong wires and burning stuff out. but it sounds like your motoring right along. i hate wireing with a passion..too much cramped spaces and frustration and time involved in it all. after a day of wiring im about brain dead from the entire ordeal

there is no telling what it will hold till you know how its designed. you generally have to have some sort of "strong point" if-you-will to attatch a bumper. winch bumpers are specially built and braced so. this bumper...to be honest...probably wouldent hold one if you could even get one to fit some place. youd have to modify it a good deal for things to hold up. the other viable option i can see is using a receiver mounted winch and modifying the bumper to accomidate a class 3 hitch. this just looks to be a tougher built bumper...not wimpy in the least, but not designed for winching applications as far as looks..i do like it. me personally id end up putting a pre-runner bar or something up top

you sir need a voltmeter...or at least a test light. FSM's are generally correct, but can sometimes provide faulty info. if your searching under the dash for this red wire...it should control BOTH headlights..not just one. that shouldent split till your after the headlight relay (id think anyways)

maybe im missing something here..but i uh...unbolted the starter, slid it back a few inches to disconnect the wiring, and pulled it right out the front. sure, a lil twisting and tilting, but it literally came out in 5 min from the time i slid under there no disconnected linkage no disconnected oil filter no removal of anything except for the starter. yall are talking about a vg30 right???

good lord lol....i dunno what you did for those 4.5 hours, but it took me a grand total of 5 min to get mine out and about 10 to get it back in. that was in a school parking lot just winging it (no directions) and no, i didnt have to unbolt anything from the starter

because it was the easy thing to do. rather than take the time to find the correct wire in the dash he saw an opportunity to quickly locate the wire of his choice in a less time-consuming way

go look at any rice bucket and youll find them. sorry but if your going for unique...your up a certain creek. iv seen them made every possible way to play to the rice crowd and regardless of your age...led's are bright. when i have my alarm in valet mode and the single lil blue led is constantly lit...its a bother and its not even in immediate sight. you put 3 of those in your line of sight..your gonna about go batty. its not subjective like volume or something...things that put strain on the eyes do so across the entire range of age. believe me...iv been in the import scene for 5x longer than youve been driving. nothing about any of it is origional...and flip cover switches are not original. the only use i see for them is a PLAIN looking covered switch for a nitrous kit or for a studder box...things that really need to remain covered. other than that, you look like a fool flipping on your fog lights with "fighter style flip cover switches"

thank you..thank you

when i said "hack job" i was referring to wiring it in there at the HI beam wiring behind the headlight for the trigger.

well for one..its a hack job wiring up the relay like that. so me being the anal person i am...id move it in..and yes, it would also tidy up the wiring. and you might as well move your other relay in as well. its better to have all your related stuff in one area..rather than spred out over 2-3 places. and youll get longer life from moving it inside as well id suppose (theoretically) due to a more controlled invironment. not the hot/cold/dry/wet up and down changes. less chance of corrosion as far as your diagram..it looks pretty good to me oh, and as far as the hole in your dash, i was trying to think of SOMETHING to cover it..even temporarily...you could always get one of those little adhesive mounted liquid compases and stick it right there lol. i dunno, just throwing anything out.

common...not really. worthwhile.....doubtfull. me personally id unhook it from that spot, and get the trigger from somewhere else. like inside at the dimmer switch wire. you dont need much to activate the relay. as far as the hole...mmmm, you got me on that one. dash cap maybe? or install a tweeter there in the front lol. or hey, you could get one of those OEM clinometers!

just my .02 ...what exactly are you driving here? a pathy or an f-16? seriously, just get some nice sleek rockers or toggles minus the cheezy flip cover. your not gonna accidently release a hoard of hellfire missles if you bump the switch reaching for the AC this is not "honda tech"

ah sweet...well i guess that answers that. i read your thread before...but i guess i missed the whole I6/V8 discussion (dunno how) thanks much!