DSM_guy

your right...let me rephrase my statement. in an ACCIDENT bolt on bars will often do more damage. if your knockin aroud the trail and bumpin rocks, trees, etc..then yeah...a brush guard would deff be to your advantage. iv just heard of several stories (even on here) where someone got into what shoulda been a minor fender bender, but their "brush guard" bent all sorts of crazy ways crumpling and smashing parts that would have otherwise survived relitavley unscathed. i cant completley knock them, i used to have just a simple push bar (see sig pic). i was suggesting something more like an ARB cuz it seems that cash isnt a big prob for this guy really. and if i had the scratch..id take a built bumper over a bolt on push bar any day..having owned both. oh and for my light bar, it just utilizes the stock roof rack setup. i REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY stress you to search. i know your trying to find out more about your truck..but honestly, i havent seen you ask something thats not been answered a jillion times. people are trying to be as nice as possible, but we do expect you to do most of your own homework. were here to help..but not do it all.

id have to go with the yota over the accord if your set on a non-nissan sedan. i have heard too many issues with transmissions in those accords. and id reccomend getting the old path. youll be happier and you can do SOOO much more to a vehicle with a frame.

just to hit on a few things. i dont think rhino (bedliner) liner would look good on the inside of a pathy. even at their worst, or trucks are FAR more refined than some jeep or the like. go back with carpet. as far as mats, i do reccomend rubber all around. i got a set of 4 mats and their nice cuz they dont slip around and they have some pretty good grooves to catch dirt and moisture, that way it dosent dribble all out into your carpet. i also made a cargo mat that covers everything back there. really handy to just toss tools or whatever back there and not have to worry. light bar, do some searching..i have made a couple references to mine. i just took a roof rack bar..attacked it with a drill, and bolted on 4 lights. works like a charm and look stock. as far as push/brush bars..id reccomend getting either a good HD set..or an aftermarket one with it built in like an ARB..or make your own. its been shown many times that a simple bolt on bar is stricly for looks and many will do much more damage in a wreck with one than not.

the only things made from metal in the well area are the inner and outer fender..so its one of those. a well shield or gap guard are made from rubber/plastic.

no, its a scam for the most part. your not runnin serious spark, OEM would suffice just fine

solid, go the easier route and have a large "hoop" bent that runs the entire length of the main tube. then you can use them as both feelers/sliders and as step bars. if you ever go wheeling you wont be getting hung up, and you wont ever have to redo them because you "wish you woulda gone a different route". much better than to not need it and have it, than not have it and need it. thats my entire philosophy on my truck. i sure dont do any hardcore wheeling, and its not like i NEEDED hell for stout bumpers and sliders all around, but i figured since i have the time and money (and free materials!) id overbuild past what id ever need.

ill do ya one better. back when the pathy belonged to my parents, we took it into a sams (or walmart..one of those). yes yes, bad news i know! anyways, so it has the little locking lugs on each set of rims. well the genius sticks the key in the impact wrench...never seats the key to the lock..and proceeds to spin up his wrench about 1/2 speed and shoves it on. of course the key catches the lock...and snaps off the little pattern inside. so he walks into the svc dep and hands us the key and the little chunk of metal and is like "uuuh, it broke" of corse my dad demands to know just how in the hell he managed to break forged steel. so yeah, we cant get the tires off because some pimple faced retard couldent take 2 sec to seat the key before he went to crankin with his impact. then, they refused to pay for it..saying the key was made of inferior aluminum! from now on, i go around and take off all the lug locks myself by hand

sure sounds like a snake oil to me. to a degree, all spark plugs are teh same with a few exceptions. and yes, some run better in other engines than the rest. but there is no gaining that kinda hp or effeciency unless what you had before was pretty much gone. as for the "ricer muffler" comment. yeah, most idiot kids slap one on a stock exhaust system and have no clue of its true function. however, cannister mufflers do their job when used appropriatley and applied correctly. unfortunatley...99% of the time they are not used properly. and i dunno that id be knocking on other vehicles addressing a "lack of grunt" on a pathfinder forum. i think every vehicle within the last 10 years save for a geo metro came with more ponies than our trucks

yeah simon..i had never been to his cardomain site before..just on N4W. and it his sig he says "runnin 35's, no lift" so thats what i based my origional statement off of. but once i got to his page..i saw the lifts. but i dunno..maybe he was running 35's before the lift and decided to add lift to it after the fact..and just never changed his sig? otherwise, i dunno why anyone would put that. but i guess that still shows that you COULD do it wiht a 3+3 and some trimming...

good writeup/maintainance idea. i did mine for the hell of it and took out a bit of debris. nothing serous, but i notice that my blower motor dosent make near as much noise as it used to

HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLY :eek: :eek: :eek: sweet set up dude..i dunno what else to say..im sure youve heard it all! ill just go sit in the corner and babble to myself for the rest of the evening ....SAS.....pretty....me want...cant....look away

WOW! that welder writeup is pretty sweet. i suppose you could get fancy and use a set of large aligator clips (like on jumper cables) and attatch them to a length of standard welding lead. i do believe ill add this to my list! already bookmarked

ok, i found the guy..and here is his site. in his sig he CLAIMS he's got no lift..but this site says otherwise. so i dunno. but he still has very few supporting mods to be runnin those tires http://www.cardomain.com/ride/719499

not go go against the flow here..but i thought there was a wd-21 pathy over on N4W running 35's completley stock? ill come back to this with a pic or a link if i can find it. but i could swear in his sig it says he is stock with 35's...even has a pic. i shall return :Magic: grr, ok im back empty handed. i know iv seen the pic a few times but i cant seem to remember who it was. but i know for sure it said in his sig that he is runnin 35's with no mods (cept alot of trimming) i has almost no room in his wells mind you..and the tires stick out about 2-3"...hehe but he DID fit them. if i run across it ill post a pic some other day

here are some helpfull links. searching the forums further (usuing the advanced search) will answer any further questions http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6594 http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18&hl=spacer http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...wtopic.php?t=98 http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...6545ab12cbb2ef4 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6293&hl=spacer

hmm, that is true red. that thought never occoured. but hey, as long as we benefit from it lol! oh and slick...i have pix up in the pics section of my new bumpers and sliders along with my BL....JGCC lift pix will hopefully follow soon my thread of pics can be found here

another thing i found the other day! seems that nissan had all kinds of things engineered (ecept the front) for a 3" BL. for ppl with the OEM step bars..there is a higher set of holes both F&R to move your bars up if you so desire. the front is held on by a grand total of ONE bolt, the rears with 2. there are 3 sets of holes on the front...stock is middle..you can just move it up to the highest hole. the rear also has 3 holes...in stock form the lowest and middle holes are used. with a lift..the middle and top holes are used. oh and since the 3 rear holes are all at an angle from one another...youll need to losen the bolts to your front box mount and slide it back a bit. there is one you can see right away..the other is at the top of the frame..back behind it. imagine two "L''s bolted together..thats what the front mount for the bars are. of course i went with sliders..so i ditched mine and the front mount become useless..but the rears did pay off. but just thought id let someone else know this lil tidbit of knowledge if they wanted to keep with OEM equip and a 3" BL

why dont you just get the lil adaptor plate for the maxima and mount a universal cone filter on it? it would cost a whole lot less..like $150 less.

my vote is for the o2 sensor..get a new one from oxygensensors.com..not the dealer

probably most everything with a few exceptions....youll just have to see what fits and what dosent when you try switching. only things i can think of is electronics may have varied from year to year

if you REALLY want to convert over to power windows..i suggest going with the SPAL power windows kit. google search to find more info. in a nutshell, its a completley universal power windows kit that comes with everything you need minus the switches in the kit...and those you can buy seperatley at the same site that are specifically for the SPAL kits. i cant remember if they sell 4 door kits, so you may need to buy 2, 2-door kits. they retain your spindle and uses a motor to turn it..you of course remove your crank handle and put a lil plug over it all. if you wanted you could probably swap over to power door skins and use the factory switches if your inclined to do so. i added power windows to my mitsubishi this way and i must say im very pleased with the way they perform. wireing is a breeze, and the relays are actually contained in the switches themselves...so no need to do alot of extra stuff. you mereley hook up your + and - leads from your window motor, a power source, a ground, and if they are lighted switches..an illumination wire. thats it! but to be honest..something that may be built up for a beat around vehicle..eh who cares if you have manual options? like GG said...its one less thing to go wrong.

woot, well i just got a reply back from one of the guys at some forum i visited. getting a set for 55 shipped. he insisted on selling the rears as well...just to get them out. maybe i can make something creative (non automotive) out of them or seomething so yeah..the pathy is goin 3" higher (or so) oooooooooooooooo yeah!!

nice trey...now i have a better idea of what ill be lookin like once i get my JGC coils on! and yeah, thats a pretty snazzy snorkel...any writeups or tips to share???

good to hear you and the fam are safe man. as you may recall, i had a bout with ice in dec. its rough. and yes..our pathies are pretty indestructable in the way of things.

as i and others have stated in threds discussing JGC lift springs at length..it has been determined that the coils for the I6 (not v6) and the V8 are THE SAME as long as their of the 4x4 model. as stated before..iv checked 3 auto parts stores and 2 aftermarket suppliers...the coils for a 4x4 JGC are the EXACT same part number regadless of engine. as far as the 4.0..dunno what your getting that from. there is only the 4.2 I6 and the 5.9 V8 avail in the JGC..remember it has to be a grand cherokee..not just a cherokee or wrangler. the reason 88 preached so much about V8 only was becasuse thats all he found at the time. give me some time and ill find some links there this has been discussed before. ah here we are http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...topic.php?t=840 looking at Parts America (supplier for lots of diff auto parts stores) the springs for both engines are listed as FCS782V and thats where slick got her springs.