DSM_guy

not go go against the flow here..but i thought there was a wd-21 pathy over on N4W running 35's completley stock? ill come back to this with a pic or a link if i can find it. but i could swear in his sig it says he is stock with 35's...even has a pic. i shall return :Magic: grr, ok im back empty handed. i know iv seen the pic a few times but i cant seem to remember who it was. but i know for sure it said in his sig that he is runnin 35's with no mods (cept alot of trimming) i has almost no room in his wells mind you..and the tires stick out about 2-3"...hehe but he DID fit them. if i run across it ill post a pic some other day

time for some sliders!

here are some helpfull links. searching the forums further (usuing the advanced search) will answer any further questions http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6594 http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18&hl=spacer http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...wtopic.php?t=98 http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...6545ab12cbb2ef4 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6293&hl=spacer

hmm, that is true red. that thought never occoured. but hey, as long as we benefit from it lol! oh and slick...i have pix up in the pics section of my new bumpers and sliders along with my BL....JGCC lift pix will hopefully follow soon my thread of pics can be found here

another thing i found the other day! seems that nissan had all kinds of things engineered (ecept the front) for a 3" BL. for ppl with the OEM step bars..there is a higher set of holes both F&R to move your bars up if you so desire. the front is held on by a grand total of ONE bolt, the rears with 2. there are 3 sets of holes on the front...stock is middle..you can just move it up to the highest hole. the rear also has 3 holes...in stock form the lowest and middle holes are used. with a lift..the middle and top holes are used. oh and since the 3 rear holes are all at an angle from one another...youll need to losen the bolts to your front box mount and slide it back a bit. there is one you can see right away..the other is at the top of the frame..back behind it. imagine two "L''s bolted together..thats what the front mount for the bars are. of course i went with sliders..so i ditched mine and the front mount become useless..but the rears did pay off. but just thought id let someone else know this lil tidbit of knowledge if they wanted to keep with OEM equip and a 3" BL

why dont you just get the lil adaptor plate for the maxima and mount a universal cone filter on it? it would cost a whole lot less..like $150 less.

see sig for my first ever car. which has since been purchased from my parents in aug/04 see very first PURCHASED car (the mitsubishi) attached below. purchased 7/01...on my 18th b-day

my vote is for the o2 sensor..get a new one from oxygensensors.com..not the dealer

probably most everything with a few exceptions....youll just have to see what fits and what dosent when you try switching. only things i can think of is electronics may have varied from year to year

if you REALLY want to convert over to power windows..i suggest going with the SPAL power windows kit. google search to find more info. in a nutshell, its a completley universal power windows kit that comes with everything you need minus the switches in the kit...and those you can buy seperatley at the same site that are specifically for the SPAL kits. i cant remember if they sell 4 door kits, so you may need to buy 2, 2-door kits. they retain your spindle and uses a motor to turn it..you of course remove your crank handle and put a lil plug over it all. if you wanted you could probably swap over to power door skins and use the factory switches if your inclined to do so. i added power windows to my mitsubishi this way and i must say im very pleased with the way they perform. wireing is a breeze, and the relays are actually contained in the switches themselves...so no need to do alot of extra stuff. you mereley hook up your + and - leads from your window motor, a power source, a ground, and if they are lighted switches..an illumination wire. thats it! but to be honest..something that may be built up for a beat around vehicle..eh who cares if you have manual options? like GG said...its one less thing to go wrong.

woot, well i just got a reply back from one of the guys at some forum i visited. getting a set for 55 shipped. he insisted on selling the rears as well...just to get them out. maybe i can make something creative (non automotive) out of them or seomething so yeah..the pathy is goin 3" higher (or so) oooooooooooooooo yeah!!

nice trey...now i have a better idea of what ill be lookin like once i get my JGC coils on! and yeah, thats a pretty snazzy snorkel...any writeups or tips to share???

good to hear you and the fam are safe man. as you may recall, i had a bout with ice in dec. its rough. and yes..our pathies are pretty indestructable in the way of things.

as i and others have stated in threds discussing JGC lift springs at length..it has been determined that the coils for the I6 (not v6) and the V8 are THE SAME as long as their of the 4x4 model. as stated before..iv checked 3 auto parts stores and 2 aftermarket suppliers...the coils for a 4x4 JGC are the EXACT same part number regadless of engine. as far as the 4.0..dunno what your getting that from. there is only the 4.2 I6 and the 5.9 V8 avail in the JGC..remember it has to be a grand cherokee..not just a cherokee or wrangler. the reason 88 preached so much about V8 only was becasuse thats all he found at the time. give me some time and ill find some links there this has been discussed before. ah here we are http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...topic.php?t=840 looking at Parts America (supplier for lots of diff auto parts stores) the springs for both engines are listed as FCS782V and thats where slick got her springs.

yeah, 93-98...or if you try trolling a JGC site like i did..youll be looking for ZJ code coils. must be from a 4x4

well, on my quest for a pair of cheap JGC springs (which BTW we need the ZJ coils) i ran across a couple jeeper forums. well, upon reading and searching through the FS sections..the very same coils we are looking for (fronts) are being gobbled up like hotcakes by xj and other trim levels to use on their rears just like us. then they just order a taller front spring. i was hoping to stumble on a plenthora of cheap springs..but they go almost faster on those forums than here. oh and from what i read you can get an extra 1-2" out of the "up country" trim level springs. not really much information here as much as a slight rant lol. at least i know why they are always being bid on ebay quite heavily. *sighs* i guess ill have to keep hoping that a junkyard opens up near here..or someone can find me some at a decent rate.

hmm, thats a dilemma. there would be a decent ammount of wiring to run to the 92...and the easiest way to transfer the windows, locks, and mirrors would honestly be to just unbolt the door and move it. but that would deff call for a repaint. hmm, i really dunno man. it seems each has their own issues. if your wantin to build a trail rig...id just go with the 92 and forget all the power stuff. its more crap to break down the road...trust me. and it has more options like a rack and whatnot.i guess it really depends on what you hate more...wiring or body work. the hi beams could be an easy fix like a fuse or relay, or a shorted wire. the cracked axle could be replaced. it really depends on what you want the vehicle for.

not your starter. either your battery has gone out and needs replacement, or your alternator isnt recharging it like it should. im voting battery

hey now! dont be dissin on the red interiors they just went a bit overboard and made EVERYTHING that same color as for the answer to your question..i dunno if there is anything more obvious. hmm, lets see..new engine, straight body, a few upgrades VS rusted @!*%box with new brakes. hmm, im getting something here....wait, no, wait, ther it is again. yes yes! GO WITH THE ONE IN BETTER CONDITION! use the 91 as your parts pathy...its a no brainer. swaping all those parts over is minor compared to rust and body repair..and engine repair..and all that. as far as the int..if you REALLY want to. but remember..alot of the plastic is old and brittle..your gonna end up with some parts that wont quite fit up too well if you start jerking peices out and putting them in another truck. your interior will rattle like allice in chains. i say do as im doing..just contrast some things here and there to cut down on all the maroon.

that sucks about your inspection. jeez i dunno that iv even been chekced for my tag lights working hahaha! before i replaced my factory rear bumper only one light was working..they do rust and corrode away easily.

it has been discussed a few times that the V8 and I6 coils are teh same. i have looked at 3 diff parts retailers and 2 offroad retailers and all 4X4 coils come back as teh same parts number regardless of engine type.

redo it right..it may "work alright" without relays but you really need to install a couple. that way you wont need alot of heavy gauge stuff running through your firewall. you just end up with a little trigger wire goin through..then you can run your larger gauge stuff down the frame and to all your lights..keeping it outside the whole time. but also..youll start overloading a normal automotive switch if you have a high current running through it. do it right and fix it for good.

yeah, harbie is right...youll need to go 2 relays. when i set up 4 of mine i cleared with only a little margin in order to use 1 relay. with 6 lights youll deff need 2. as others have said...run some 10ga to your relays, make the loop with your power wires, ground on chassis, find a suitable trigger and hook up a switch.

mws is right cheap tools are NOT the way to go. if you cash in and get a good setup it will last you a VERY long time. if you get some el-cheap crap its gonna break in a heartbeat. my dad had one of those $20 angle grinders from harbor freight...its stopped working after very litle use. i opened it up 2-3x to fix problems and each time a new one arises. he told me to just toss it..but in insisted on trying to salvage it but no use. i threw it across the shop the other day...its dead. wheather its wrenches, socket, screwdrivers (yes even screwdrivers), pliers, cutters, etc you need to get quality equipment. youll end up rounding off things, breaking tools, etc. and that will require more money. as MWS stated..most good tools are lifetime guaranteed..you just walk in and get a new replacement for free. the lowest id go is a set of craftsman stuff. im sure some cheap stuff works ok..but i dont care to risk it. you dont need snap on brand..not if your just an avid or even advanced wrencher. and as far as the welder..i dunno what your plans are..but unless you plan on doing body work and the like for a good long time professionally...dont bother getting a pro grade welder to fix your body issues. just get that done at a shop. i know you said something about doing alot of welding..but there is a vast distance in the world of welding. and the fact that you werent too enlightened on the type of welder to go with..and your wanting cheap..it occours to me that you might not know what your getting into when welding body parts. they are paper thin and take a good deal of skill and good equip or youll make a mess of it all. anyone can pick up a stick or tig on heavy metal..but light stuff is a diff story. cliffs notes...cutting corners and costs when investing in tool or vehicles/parts is gonna be more trouble than what its worth..and youll pay many times over what you would have if you woulda done it right the first time

OMFG :oops: quick..somebody kill it!