DSM_guy

yeah, 93-98...or if you try trolling a JGC site like i did..youll be looking for ZJ code coils. must be from a 4x4

well, on my quest for a pair of cheap JGC springs (which BTW we need the ZJ coils) i ran across a couple jeeper forums. well, upon reading and searching through the FS sections..the very same coils we are looking for (fronts) are being gobbled up like hotcakes by xj and other trim levels to use on their rears just like us. then they just order a taller front spring. i was hoping to stumble on a plenthora of cheap springs..but they go almost faster on those forums than here. oh and from what i read you can get an extra 1-2" out of the "up country" trim level springs. not really much information here as much as a slight rant lol. at least i know why they are always being bid on ebay quite heavily. *sighs* i guess ill have to keep hoping that a junkyard opens up near here..or someone can find me some at a decent rate.

hmm, thats a dilemma. there would be a decent ammount of wiring to run to the 92...and the easiest way to transfer the windows, locks, and mirrors would honestly be to just unbolt the door and move it. but that would deff call for a repaint. hmm, i really dunno man. it seems each has their own issues. if your wantin to build a trail rig...id just go with the 92 and forget all the power stuff. its more crap to break down the road...trust me. and it has more options like a rack and whatnot.i guess it really depends on what you hate more...wiring or body work. the hi beams could be an easy fix like a fuse or relay, or a shorted wire. the cracked axle could be replaced. it really depends on what you want the vehicle for.

not your starter. either your battery has gone out and needs replacement, or your alternator isnt recharging it like it should. im voting battery

hey now! dont be dissin on the red interiors they just went a bit overboard and made EVERYTHING that same color as for the answer to your question..i dunno if there is anything more obvious. hmm, lets see..new engine, straight body, a few upgrades VS rusted @!*%box with new brakes. hmm, im getting something here....wait, no, wait, ther it is again. yes yes! GO WITH THE ONE IN BETTER CONDITION! use the 91 as your parts pathy...its a no brainer. swaping all those parts over is minor compared to rust and body repair..and engine repair..and all that. as far as the int..if you REALLY want to. but remember..alot of the plastic is old and brittle..your gonna end up with some parts that wont quite fit up too well if you start jerking peices out and putting them in another truck. your interior will rattle like allice in chains. i say do as im doing..just contrast some things here and there to cut down on all the maroon.

that sucks about your inspection. jeez i dunno that iv even been chekced for my tag lights working hahaha! before i replaced my factory rear bumper only one light was working..they do rust and corrode away easily.

it has been discussed a few times that the V8 and I6 coils are teh same. i have looked at 3 diff parts retailers and 2 offroad retailers and all 4X4 coils come back as teh same parts number regardless of engine type.

redo it right..it may "work alright" without relays but you really need to install a couple. that way you wont need alot of heavy gauge stuff running through your firewall. you just end up with a little trigger wire goin through..then you can run your larger gauge stuff down the frame and to all your lights..keeping it outside the whole time. but also..youll start overloading a normal automotive switch if you have a high current running through it. do it right and fix it for good.

yeah, harbie is right...youll need to go 2 relays. when i set up 4 of mine i cleared with only a little margin in order to use 1 relay. with 6 lights youll deff need 2. as others have said...run some 10ga to your relays, make the loop with your power wires, ground on chassis, find a suitable trigger and hook up a switch.

mws is right cheap tools are NOT the way to go. if you cash in and get a good setup it will last you a VERY long time. if you get some el-cheap crap its gonna break in a heartbeat. my dad had one of those $20 angle grinders from harbor freight...its stopped working after very litle use. i opened it up 2-3x to fix problems and each time a new one arises. he told me to just toss it..but in insisted on trying to salvage it but no use. i threw it across the shop the other day...its dead. wheather its wrenches, socket, screwdrivers (yes even screwdrivers), pliers, cutters, etc you need to get quality equipment. youll end up rounding off things, breaking tools, etc. and that will require more money. as MWS stated..most good tools are lifetime guaranteed..you just walk in and get a new replacement for free. the lowest id go is a set of craftsman stuff. im sure some cheap stuff works ok..but i dont care to risk it. you dont need snap on brand..not if your just an avid or even advanced wrencher. and as far as the welder..i dunno what your plans are..but unless you plan on doing body work and the like for a good long time professionally...dont bother getting a pro grade welder to fix your body issues. just get that done at a shop. i know you said something about doing alot of welding..but there is a vast distance in the world of welding. and the fact that you werent too enlightened on the type of welder to go with..and your wanting cheap..it occours to me that you might not know what your getting into when welding body parts. they are paper thin and take a good deal of skill and good equip or youll make a mess of it all. anyone can pick up a stick or tig on heavy metal..but light stuff is a diff story. cliffs notes...cutting corners and costs when investing in tool or vehicles/parts is gonna be more trouble than what its worth..and youll pay many times over what you would have if you woulda done it right the first time

OMFG :oops: quick..somebody kill it!

i too have been thinkin about shirts latley. a forum that im a member of just got done with a t-shirt order..so i asked about what they did for printing. i may start up another thread about it in the OT section. i liked the lettering and design of the one i designed last time..but we will just need a larger raw image to work with.

shirts went down due to the fact that i couldent get a large enough res file for the shirt. that and nobody ever got back with a deff place to get them done.

venge i think he was referring to that if he went with the receiver mounted winch idea. in which case moving the winch would take all of 2 minutes tops but to better answer your question..most of the brands i hear being used as warn, mile marker, superwinch..a few others. search around (avanced, not simple) a bit and you should find a bit more info

well, i searched and read for about the last 1 1/2 hours on the subject..and i have just a few minor questions. i figured id go ahead and build me some considering i have access to a TON of 3" thick wall pipe and a welder at no cost, and ill soon lose access to that once the house is sold (may be soon) #1 i see most of the sliders being made of square tubing...would round stock work equally well? any disadvantages? unless serious ill go ahead as planned..mainly because thats all i have to work with. #2 iv seen some designs that stick way out complete with outriggers (if they could be called that), and iv seen some that tuck up and out about like the stock nerfies. im sure that the wider ones would help more in really bad narrow situation..but i figured most of the attack would come from beneath or at an angle. is this assumption correct? #3 as some know, i recently installed a 3" BL, and now the frame hangs down lower than the body. are these sliders primarily for the protection of the body? would i need to bring up the bars closer to my body or leave them down for added skidding for the frame? unless otherwise directed..my intentions are to pretty much build a set of sliders that mimic a beefier set of stock nerfies. and unless i really do need to bring them up alot closer...ill probably leave them about stock location due to the fact that i am rather short and looking at another 3" of SL and 1-2" from tires. im already having to do a lil hop or tip up on my toes to slide into the seat as it is

as our cars get older, the gas gauges start to peter out. after driving about 50 miles the needle is all the way on 1/4 tank left on mine. i go strictly by my odometer now or do you know for a fact that your really burning that much gas? as in..having to fill up multiple times?

my guess would be from a vac leak from the way you described it. check out all the lines runing to it. highly unlikley your diaphram ruptured.

yup, like red said...4LO is meant for things like crawling, pulling others out of a ditch, etc. its geared VERY low and creates alot of torque. use your 4 hi to keep traction in the snow, light mud, etc. and yeah, put your truck in 4 hi...watch the RPM's along with the speed. then stick it down in 4 lo, and watch teh same things. your turning alot of RPM's for only a bit of speed. going too fast in 4 lo (or even 4 hi) will cause major issues within your transfer case

ahh ok thanks for clearing that up slick. the front O2 sensor is for fuel trim and the like, this is before the cat. a sensor after the cat is strictly there to monitor cat effeciency.

sway bars are added in the lower rear for many RWD vehicles for stability during cornering. they also come in the lower front, upper front and upper rear. how a sway bar works

all a muffler is is...well just that...it muffles sound. it has absolutley no control over emissions. the only real exhaust related part that has a direct effect would be your cat. your muffler is filled with baffles, mesh wire, etc... all exhaust is somewhat "processed" i guess you could say after it leaves the cat. it dosent really do a whole lot more breaking down after that. thats why several mfg's put a 2nd o2 sensor (forget if ours have it) after the kitty to monitor effeciency and turns in a MIL if emissions are being affected due to a faulty unit

pix/description of the mystery wire? would deff help us a bit more in determining what it might run to. there is a myriad of wires near the battery

the only thing a muffler is gonna effect is your noise. its not gonna reduce actual emissions. im not sure what the reg's are in your state/area..but some wont pass a car with a more performance oriented/louder muffler. the DB level and visual would be the only things that could kill you.

bingo pick up the DIY stuff and have a ball. youll never have to worry about chiping, scratching, or moisture. and if you do somehow take a chunk or gash out...repairing will be alot easier and look like the rest of it..unlike spot repairing paint/powdercoat.

hey snake where ya been? i havent seen you on in a while (cant exactly remember how long) i had to fab my push bar to fit. i bought it off a member here for cheap and said it was for a pathy. but there wasnt a way it could fit. but a li cuttin here, and a custom set of brackets there..i had me a dandy little bit of protection