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A 285 is too wide of a tire for a 7" wheel. That's out of the recommended range. 275 would be the widest that a 7" wheel is supposed to handle. From what i've seen, the 265/75/16s don't rub but they're super close. Most people got spacers just for piece of mind though.

But what would knowing compressed or extended length of shocks do? Is the OP going to have custom sets built? The popular options for our trucks will have top out issues. I don't really plan on lifting, but i don't see the need for such info. Maybe that's because i don't get into that.

My link have a blast.

Aside from HIDs, i've also always used silverstars. Been happy with them and have usually gotten close to 2 years of use out of them until one goes out. I'd like to give the PIAAs a shot too. What kind of life span do you get out of those, my1path?

Check balance of those tires. Rear tires can be OOB when you feel a vibration in your seat at about 60+. But, it can also be u-joint related as well. A nice fluid flush and fill of all fluids would be nice to do at this stage. Typical tune-up work.

You won't have issues with it in the snow. I use less aggressive tires in heavy Tahoe snow and don't have problems. You'll slip in just about anything other than true snow tires if you're in really icy conditions. In heavy powder days with Michelin LTX AT2s or BFG ATs, i didn't even need to use my 4x4. I drove around just fine in my brother's Accord with street tires and chains in heavy powder as well. For the record, i'm on Michelin X Radial LT2s which are the equivalent to the LTX M/S2s.

Uhh, no idea what you're talking about when you say 245/70/17 is not rated for severe snow. A tire size does not dictate what it's rated for, the type of tire dictates what it's rated for. You asked for the BFG ATs and they come in a 245/70/17. What are you asking for exactly?

245/70/17. 16s are fine and you can find a cheap set of 5 matching wheels from another year R50 on ebay pretty easily. BTW, it's BFG AT TA KO. not TKO.

as others have already said, the R50 is an "on the fly" shift from 2H to 4H. going at about ~30MPH you can just use one swift, quick motion into 4H. to shift into 4L, you MUST stop, put it in neutral, and again use a swift, quick motion, push down on the lever, and pull back quickly into 4L. it shouldn't grind, if it does, you're probably doing it wrong or shifting too slowly. checking fluids and giving it a nice flush with good fluids will always help some, but grinding is typically user error.

search. My link and going by what you said, you probably answered your own question.

are you going to standard FLT sizing or staying in P-metric sizing? yes, 265/75/15 is right about a 31" tire. on a 10", i'd go with something wider than a 265 tire. most tire manufacturers max out acceptable wheel applications at about 9" on a 265, which means you'd be stretching your tire to fit that onto a 10" wheel. i'd go with at least a 285 on a 10" wheel.

yeah, i recall some older threads where you were able to track down a couple sets and how long it finally took you to get yours (i'm search button-literate. haha), but i'm not sure if i want to pay that much. super enticing, but i just don't know. if it were under $1k, i'd definitely consider it, but from the sounds of it, i don't think that'd be the case.

that is sick as hell! i wish i could get a pair for my pathy. i envy my brother's Q with the HIDs, but those don't have projectors like these badboys do.

Donald, get the fluids changed/flushed and see what happens. I've been telling you that since you got the truck.

running 100w lights will produce more heat, obviously. can burn through bulbs faster, melting wires, etc. 55w bulbs get the wires pretty hot already.

yes, but the gap will be bigger between the brush guard and the bumper. search is your friend.

we're pretty much thinking along the same lines. just worded a little differently. all springs are at a 0.5" lift but it's all weight dependent.

plugs for me are usually around the 30k mark. i've always felt wires vary depending on conditions that the truck is in, and just taking a look at the wires and see how they're looking. i would also say that the cap/rotor are usually at the 30k mark as well especially since most of our trucks are in the higher mileage range.

Congrats and enjoy your new truck!

Mine doesn't say that either. All you get is how much fluid is needed for a flush. It should say, IIRC, to simply keep topping off until the desired level is reached.

ok, let's just throw out some arbitrary numbers to hopefully illustrate it a little better. first of all, that i'm aware of, all OME coils are of the same height. they all claim a 0.5" lift, so all coils should be roughly 0.5" taller than a factory Nissan coil. let's say that a stock, R50, front clip weighs 2000lbs. so, the stock Nissan coils will lift the truck to a height of say 20" from the ground to the bumper (again, these are just random numbers i'm pulling out of the air to help illustrate how i think OME is describing their various coils). now, if you put the lightweight/stock load OME coils, you'll get a 0.5" lift from those coils. now, if we put the MD OME coils on a stock, R50, front clip, the OME MD coils will more than likely "lift" the truck to maybe 0.75"-1". why? because the OME MD coils can hold up the R50 front clip with weight up to about 2300 lbs, but if 2500lbs isn't there, the stiffer MD coil will "lift" the truck higher. if we were to slap 300 or so more lbs onto the front of the truck, then the amount of "lift" would still be right about 0.5" same situation for the OME HD coils. the OME HD coils can hold up to about 2600lbs. if we were to use the OME HD coils on a stock, R50, front clip, it will "lift" the truck to maybe 1.5" because the spring is stiffer and doesn't have to hold as much weight, therefore not compressing that coil as much. hopefully that clears it up a bit more. again, not sure if that's exactly how OME designed them, but that's how i've come to understand it.

take a look at your owner's manual. it will tell you what and which fluid to use and how to add it, but topping off fluid is supposed to be added straight into the charge pipe.

if you know someone with another pathy, you can always give their remote a shot. just program it to your truck, see if it works, if it does, go buy a new one. you can find them for pretty cheap. i bought two of them for about $65 at programyourfob.com. only thing i didn't like about them is that they didn't respond to my e-mail, didn't send me any ship date or confirmation, etc. other than that, i got my fobs in about a week, and they looked brand new and worked flawlessly.

not sure what you mean by a different size, could you clarify? and right, you don't need longer brake lines. only if your truck is lifted.

duh, makes sense.