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as others have already said, the R50 is an "on the fly" shift from 2H to 4H. going at about ~30MPH you can just use one swift, quick motion into 4H. to shift into 4L, you MUST stop, put it in neutral, and again use a swift, quick motion, push down on the lever, and pull back quickly into 4L. it shouldn't grind, if it does, you're probably doing it wrong or shifting too slowly. checking fluids and giving it a nice flush with good fluids will always help some, but grinding is typically user error.

search. My link and going by what you said, you probably answered your own question.

are you going to standard FLT sizing or staying in P-metric sizing? yes, 265/75/15 is right about a 31" tire. on a 10", i'd go with something wider than a 265 tire. most tire manufacturers max out acceptable wheel applications at about 9" on a 265, which means you'd be stretching your tire to fit that onto a 10" wheel. i'd go with at least a 285 on a 10" wheel.

yeah, i recall some older threads where you were able to track down a couple sets and how long it finally took you to get yours (i'm search button-literate. haha), but i'm not sure if i want to pay that much. super enticing, but i just don't know. if it were under $1k, i'd definitely consider it, but from the sounds of it, i don't think that'd be the case.

that is sick as hell! i wish i could get a pair for my pathy. i envy my brother's Q with the HIDs, but those don't have projectors like these badboys do.

Donald, get the fluids changed/flushed and see what happens. I've been telling you that since you got the truck.

running 100w lights will produce more heat, obviously. can burn through bulbs faster, melting wires, etc. 55w bulbs get the wires pretty hot already.

yes, but the gap will be bigger between the brush guard and the bumper. search is your friend.

we're pretty much thinking along the same lines. just worded a little differently. all springs are at a 0.5" lift but it's all weight dependent.

plugs for me are usually around the 30k mark. i've always felt wires vary depending on conditions that the truck is in, and just taking a look at the wires and see how they're looking. i would also say that the cap/rotor are usually at the 30k mark as well especially since most of our trucks are in the higher mileage range.

Mine doesn't say that either. All you get is how much fluid is needed for a flush. It should say, IIRC, to simply keep topping off until the desired level is reached.

ok, let's just throw out some arbitrary numbers to hopefully illustrate it a little better. first of all, that i'm aware of, all OME coils are of the same height. they all claim a 0.5" lift, so all coils should be roughly 0.5" taller than a factory Nissan coil. let's say that a stock, R50, front clip weighs 2000lbs. so, the stock Nissan coils will lift the truck to a height of say 20" from the ground to the bumper (again, these are just random numbers i'm pulling out of the air to help illustrate how i think OME is describing their various coils). now, if you put the lightweight/stock load OME coils, you'll get a 0.5" lift from those coils. now, if we put the MD OME coils on a stock, R50, front clip, the OME MD coils will more than likely "lift" the truck to maybe 0.75"-1". why? because the OME MD coils can hold up the R50 front clip with weight up to about 2300 lbs, but if 2500lbs isn't there, the stiffer MD coil will "lift" the truck higher. if we were to slap 300 or so more lbs onto the front of the truck, then the amount of "lift" would still be right about 0.5" same situation for the OME HD coils. the OME HD coils can hold up to about 2600lbs. if we were to use the OME HD coils on a stock, R50, front clip, it will "lift" the truck to maybe 1.5" because the spring is stiffer and doesn't have to hold as much weight, therefore not compressing that coil as much. hopefully that clears it up a bit more. again, not sure if that's exactly how OME designed them, but that's how i've come to understand it.

take a look at your owner's manual. it will tell you what and which fluid to use and how to add it, but topping off fluid is supposed to be added straight into the charge pipe.

if you know someone with another pathy, you can always give their remote a shot. just program it to your truck, see if it works, if it does, go buy a new one. you can find them for pretty cheap. i bought two of them for about $65 at programyourfob.com. only thing i didn't like about them is that they didn't respond to my e-mail, didn't send me any ship date or confirmation, etc. other than that, i got my fobs in about a week, and they looked brand new and worked flawlessly.

not sure what you mean by a different size, could you clarify? and right, you don't need longer brake lines. only if your truck is lifted.

duh, makes sense.

how come you didn't get the recessed cutout from KMA when you bought the bumper?

if it were me, i'd stray away from having to cut the WJ coils to suit your ride height needs. cutting or heating coils has never been a good idea in any situation that i've come across. that's just me though.

depends on which model of the OME coils you get. if you get the heavier duty OME coils, it will obviously give you more lift because it's designed to carry more weight. same amount of lift, but just a higher spring rate/stiffer spring.

yes, that's normal. it's a legal thing. not sure of other states or what not, but it's a law that the only the hi-beams are on when they're switched on. there's a re-wire thread somewhere on the forum, just not as clear as some others. it should be a similar type of re-wire that i did on several of my other cars like my G20. you find a running light (would be the front sidemarkers for us), clip that, wire into the foglight relay found under the hood and hook that up to the power. so, power wire from foglight relay is connected to power wire on the sidemarkers so that fogs come on when sidemarkers come on.

my apologies. i guess when i was making a handful of links, that got mistook for this link. http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm sorry. this should provide some better info though.

just some quick little info.

yes, MichiganAve's truck definitely looks killer. one thing i'm worried about is if i do happen to jump on these bumpers, it'll give me more of an excuse to get a modest OME lift or what not, which is what i'm trying to stay away from. haha. i don't know, maybe i'll just look into getting my bumpers rhino-lined or something with a simple, bull-bar. it looks like you may have done that previously, unless it's just a black bumper.

adam, aren't the ARB bumpers heavier than the KMAs? from the looks of it, it would appear to be. the KMA doesn't look as "heavy duty" as the ARB does, especially since i would be more interested in getting a winchless, basic bumper kind of like what morpheus has. these bumpers definitely have piqued my interest, especially for the rear. getting a full bumper with a tow hitch attached sounds awesome to me! anyone know if the wiring is included, needs to be done, or if there's even a spot for it if my truck doesn't have a hitch yet? sorry to threadjack, OfftourRoadie. your mods have definitely garnered some serious interest from me. haha.

piste, if you're looking for a full, replacement bumper, check this: My link it's the link morpheus provided for the KMA bumpers that is being talked about in OfftourRoadie's thread. really makes me want to get a simple one for the front and a simple one for the rear with the tow hitch so i don't have to buy a separate tow hitch. my driving is very similar to yours with no plans of lifting the truck. i would think the 923s would be more than enough for our trucks with one of these bumpers and no winch, as far as what that e-mail said from ARB.