esy

Yeah, i figured it should fit since the 255/70/16 is pretty close to the same size as the 265/70/15 but wasn't sure if there any changes from year to year as far as placement of the muffler, exhaust piping, etc, etc.

i know the sizes. and the 255/70 is a taller tire than stock so the tire will fit into stock location fine since his 275/70 is both wider and taller than stock or the 255/70 and fits. i know a little about tires since i work in the industry.

cool, if you're running a 275/70, a 255/70 will get in there just dandy since it'll just be a slightly taller tire, but not wider. thanks!

ok, couldn't really find a topic that talked about this, so here goes. when i get new tires in a few months (too bad since price jumped up yesterday), i'll be upsizing to the 255/70/16. my question is, has anyone ever stuffed a larger tire under the stock spare tire carrier, specifically a 255/70/16? i was taking a quick look at it yesterday, and it looks to fit ok, but i may run into an issue on the right side where it gets close to the muffler and what not. just curious if anyone has ever put anything larger than the stock 255/65/16 under there? for argument's sake, i don't really want to get a swing away spare tire carrier since it's not in my budget, nor do i really want to get a cargo basket and toss the tire up there. i use my rack for different purposes (bikes and snowboards, specifically). any thought would be appreciated.

no clue on the studs. i just replaced the WARN studs today with new bolts. bought 12 new M8x1.25 40mm bolts from Lowe's. they were class 8.8 (not quite grade 8 from what the guy said, but easily better than grade 5 that could easily handle 25 lbs/ft of torque), and matched them up with some washers, torqued it all down to 22 lbs/ft torque and it was great! since i've had them on, i've been averaging about 17-18mpg on mostly city with some highway driving mixed in. before i got them on, i got about 15mpg, on the dot, with the same type of driving, and about 17ish mpg when it was mostly highway (like when i went to the bay). so, from the looks of it, an approximate 3mpg increase. i got a full tune-up well before i put my hubs on, so it's not like there's an unfair advantage at any point. actually, i need to change out my air filter since i haven't done that yet and it's actually probably hurting my mpg now than it would've before. just waiting on my JWT POP to come in and i'll get that, my oil, and a fresh battery in since it appears to be going out on me slowly. great install, but definitely change the studs out to stronger studs or bolts.

when you say bolts, you mean something like this, yeah? if so, that actually sounds like a novel idea. i didn't even think of that. the only thing i'd be concerned about with that is if i were to snap that bolt as well (although it SHOULDN'T snap when properly torquing down) and the bolt would get stuck inside the wheel hub. if i can't find another type of equal thread double ended stud, i might look into this route.

ok tire. they're cheap. that's about as much as i can say about them. if you were to get a highway style tire like that in the Bridgestone line, i'd recommend the the 684 IIs. at least you get a 60k warranty out of those. still though, for the most part, i'm not a huge fan of a lot of the BFS truck tires. the only ones that i'd think about putting on any of my trucks would be the AT Revo2 or maybe the Dueler Alenza if i want a quieter, smoother ride. other than that, i'll pass on all the other ones.

if you can find it, buy the older fairing styles (rectangular in shape and quite a bit larger than the new ones). the new ones have shrunken quite a bit, and aren't as functional as the older ones, IMO.

EDIT: n.m. i just noticed you have a 1G R50 and you have the factory tracks. you can still use the 2nd style fairing that Brien posted up, you would just need to get the appropriate clips for it. i don't see why you can't use that fairing since there are a couple different sizes of them. oh, and another thing, it also depends what you're carrying. reason i say you can use the 2nd fairing that Brien posted up is because if you have the Yakima cross bars, that's what i'd use. if you have the Yakima cargo carrier like Offtourroadie has, then you'd use the first one. i have the Yakima cross bars and carry bikes and snowboards, so i'd use the 2nd one. then again, my truck has a factory fairing, so it's not needed and i sold my old one.

not sure about the studs on yours, but the WARN studs are barely flush with the tops of the nuts once torqued down. if i used the stock studs, there wouldn't have been enough thread to hold onto the stud. maybe the difference between the 1G and 2G R50s are a little different in that sense, i don't know. plus, it'd be much better to have slightly longer studs, anyways, so you're certain that the nuts are completely threaded on.

thanks, but i figured it out. looked at a service manual after a while and figured out that i had to remove the dust cap to get the locking C-clip off and take the locking hub plate off. updated a post in the pinned topic in case anyone else needs it though.

ok, i think a few things MUST be reiterated to make sure that people don't run into the same problems that i did. when removing the stock hub, it DOES NOT come off with ease. if it comes off with ease after you remove the nuts, you're missing the locking C-clip. so, after removing the nuts from the stock locking hub studs, you must then remove the dust cap (you don't have to do it in this order since it doesn't really matter). after removing the dust cap, you'll see the locking C-clip (if you have or have used a Yakima rack, you'll be familiar with these locking C-clips). pry the C-clip open a little and pop it off. KEEP THIS BECAUSE YOU WILL NEED IT. what the locking C-clip does is prevent the axle from moving. once you remove it, you'll be able to push the axle in and out. once that C-clip is removed, the locking hub plate should pry off with a little more elbow grease. this is when you take the stock studs off and put the new WARN studs on (NOTE: i do recommend getting new, stronger ones like some others have. they're pretty weak, and i snapped one when torquing them down to about ~22 ft/lbs, and yes, the recommended torque is 18-25 ft/lbs. so, i'll be buying all new studs from Home Depot or something and doing it all over again). put the WARN hub body on, and snug the screws down. don't torque them, just snug them so that the body is sitting up against the wheel hub. now, remember that locking C-clip that you had to keep? well, put that bad boy back on. if you didn't see one when you pulled your hubs off, go buy one because like i said, the C-clip prevents the axle from moving back and forth through the hub. after that, all the other instructions are good. if i knew the C-clip needed to be removed, it would've saved me a TON of time, but you live and you learn. i'll be going back in there soon anyways to redo the studs, so whatever. one question though. when i was testing proper engagement and disengagement of the hubs per the WARN instructions, one method wasn't exactly doing what WARN said it would. it says: for proper engagement: lift one wheel, lock both hubs, and spin the lifted wheel. if the drive shaft is spinning, the hub is properly engaged. for proper disengagement: unlock/free the lifted wheel and spin the wheel. if the drive shaft is NOT spinning and no ratcheting sound is heard, the hub is properly disengaging my question is is that it was engaging properly but when i tested for disengagement, it didn't do what WARN said it would. the drive shaft was still spinning, but i didn't hear a ratcheting sound so what's the story? is it disengaged properly? i just want to be sure. other than that, a very simple install as long as you know some of the little things ahead of you.

ok, so i finally got my dust cap/drive cap off. i don't think the previous owner had the brakes changed before because once the dust cap finally came off, there was a snap ring that was preventing the locking hub from coming off. i think i'm home free now.

My link thoughts? better methods? i've gotten a little farther from that post. i removed the studs, but the hub is still on. it's spinning, but not coming off the wheel hub. any help is appreciated.

doing my hubs today. taken the nuts off the stock hubs, but am now having trouble getting the hubs off. best way to get this thing off? i've been trying to hammer a flathead in between the hub, but to no avail. also been trying to get it in between the dust cap, but that thing isn't budging either. am i on the right track or is there a better way? maybe a crank puller? any help soon would greatly appreciated. trying to get this done ASAP. thanks!

not that i'm aware of. they're just rainguards, so that you can crack open your windows while it's raining and the rain won't get inside. they're not actually called wind deflectors, but window deflectors. rain deflectors that go in your windows.

not sure what you're asking, but OEM is the least expensive.

i meant availability as far as popularity of the size. much more likely to find that tire in most tire shops rather than having to order the tire. out of curiosity, why do you want to keep the stock width? why not go with a much more popular size in 265/65/17 or something of that nature?

i'd go with a 245/70/17 just because of availability of that tire and the options that you'll have for that size. without even looking into our special order catalog, i don't even think that size is available or is pretty limited in options as far as the tires we can get at Costco.

i know a lot of members here really like the GR2s, but from my experience with vehicles as far as the lowering aspects are concerned. anyways, they've always been considered factory replacements that are only slightly better. if you're looking to do more wheeling and handle heavier duty styles of driving, i'd go for something better, but that's just my opinion.

yes. so, having manual locking hubs and driving them in the "free wheel" option in 2H will essentially make our trucks like a true 2WD vehicle, thus saving on fuel, wear on the CV boots/axles as tekazgtr and others have said. if you do decide to use the 4WD, you MUST lock the hubs first, then switch into 4WD. if you don't (regardless of which TC you have), you will damage your TC.

nice! even though i don't do wheeling, some heavier duty CV boots would still be great.

again, it's kind of dependent on what you're actually taking into consideration. having a +/- 3% difference in tire size affects more than just clearance of the tire. i mean, we start getting into how it will make said vehicle handle, brake, accelerate, fuel consumption, and will also effectively change the gearing of the vehicle. i mean, it's the same as running proper air pressure in your tires. it gets overlooked quite a bit, but it really changes how that vehicle handles, how the tire wears, how much load carrying capacity it can take, etc, etc. same goes for when modifying the vehicle/engine as well. change one thing, it affects a lot others. get a more free-flowing exhaust, you lose out on low end torque but gain top end HP.

in what sense? as far as size, yes. especially in truck tires. when changing the profile of the tire just one P-metric increment for trucks, it will change it by more than 3% (which is the rule of thumb when using alternate sizing or plus sizing if you're sticking with factory sizing). IIRC, changing the stock 255/65/16 to 255/70/16 is a 3.6% change or so. going off of size alone and not the differences between tires and their sizing, it's essentially changing the tire from about a 29.5" tall tire, to almost a 30.25" tall tire.

search button is your friend. you're asking extremely simple questions that just a little reading can answer.