esy

2nd. if you (the OP) had access to oil analyses, you'll little differences between generic/walmart synthetic and the mobil1, pennzoil, quaker synthetics. the only time you'll start seeing a bigger difference is when you start using Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc. make sure you're getting a good filter as well, and i've yet to find a better filter than the Purolator brand filters.

the JWT POP charger is $100. yes, still expensive, but it's not the filter that is the difference. the JWT venturi MAF adapter is the difference. and yes, it is quite a bit more different and better than a typical, run of the mill, MAF adapter. $80 more is still a bit much, but i've run enough JWT POPs in enough vehicles and seen enough dynos that a MAF adapter does not begin to compare to the JWT venturi.

doubt it. two different engines. just get a cone filter, MAF adapter, and call it a day. JWT POP would be more beneficial than the K&N system, IMO, and has been for other vehicles that i've seen on the dyno.

maybe trucks are a bit different, but i've seen many cars get hydrolocked without even driving through hood-level water for extended periods of time. i've seen a Z attempt to go up a driveway that he wasn't familiar with. there was water that flooded the gutter some, but i guess there was a lot more water or a ditch that he obviously wasn't aware of. the bumper got submerged enough to cover half of the POP charger, and as soon as it did. the engine shut off and locked. there was maybe a millisecond of time between the time the POP charger got submerged in water and when the engine locked. i've seen that happen many times on several different sports cars. again, maybe trucks are designed a bit differently, but if they're not well....

no. no, water will get sucked in. no. don't get one then. figure something else out that won't suck water into your engine, but you'll be hard pressed to think of a less gay option.

there's an old school motto of, "35 saves lives." my tire shop manager says that all the time. much of it came from the whole Bridgestone/Firestone recall years ago. the 26psi recommendation was supposed to have been changed though. 30 is the best pressure to run for max comfort. that's the main focus that Nissan had in mind with that recommendation. setting it a couple pounds higher gives you better handling and a firmer ride. i typically run mine at 31-32psi and have been very happy with that.

^^^^ agreed. as far as all the non-HD GM vehicles that i've worked on, they've all got smaller center bores. are you not a fan of steel wheels? i've thought about getting some 16x8s, but i don't think i really want to fork out the cash. plus, that would also make me want to lift the truck and all the other stuff that i'd rather not have my money get sucked away into. haha.

just go buy some steelies like some procomps (Costco sells them, not sure how much though since we don't sell them in the shop. not in our shop, anyways) or what not. then just craigslist those bling blingies.

i would think that your model Q would have the TX10 TC because they still have the floor switch unlike the actual dial that the newer Qs and pathys have. best bet would be to get under the truck and see if you can find the PN to double check it. if you were to put the manual hubs on, i'd double check some of the electronics on your axle just to make sure you won't get any lights popping up on the dash or what not. i would think that if you did use the manual hubs, you'd obviously have to leave it in 2WD mode.

the WD21s with the 31" tires are a little different. they required an LRC/6-ply tire, and most of those tires maintained its shape quite a bit better regardless of the air pressure, so the WD21s have a bit of an advantage there.

just an assumption but it would seem that the switch/dial is an in-cabin hub locker control more than it is a 4x4 switch like it is in the LE models of some of the newer 2G R50s. so, having it in "2WD" would be like having the manual hubs in "free". "auto" would allow the vehicle to electronically switch into lock and free whenever it pleases. and "lock" would be like locking manual hubs. just an assumption, but that's what i would think it is used for since the Infiniti is supposed to be a more luxurious Nissan and having an in-cabin, hub locker would be something to achieve that.

nissan ones are cheaper by about $50 on average. and i can still find the OEM window vent visors with ease. My link not to mention, most dealerships should be able to search around for you to see if anyone has any left, if they are truly out. that's what my local dealership did for me when i got the OEM all-weather floormats.

manufacturer's setting is always the way to go. really, the only times you want to overinflate is if you're carrying a heavier load, which would obviously displace the tire more. there's few instances to underinflate the tires for street applications (off-road is whole other animal). if you're running regular, compressed air, it'd be a little more proper to run slightly higher pressures as the cold air will drop the pressure in the tires. regular, compressed air fluctuates quite a bit as it'll vary anywhere from 2-5psi in either direction when the tires are hot or it's hot outside, or when the tires are in colder climates. if you have access to it, i'd recommend inflating your tires with Nitrogen (the Costco tire shops run strictly on Nitrogen). Nitrogen is a dry gas that doesn't fluctuate with temperature changes the way regular, compressed air does. however, for most of the hardcore off-roaders, Nitrogen isn't a possibility as they'll need to inflate and deflate their tires on a regular basis.

about 123k right now. need to do my oil change and clean my filter.

good luck trying to find that german castrol syn. it's near impossible, from what i understand.

OEM Nissan filters were switched on the VG oil filters from the 60U, japanese made ones to the Honeywell 55Y filters. the 60U and 55Y are a part of the part numbers for the VGs, and i'm pretty sure the SOHC VGs used the same filters as the DOHC VGs, as the 60U filters were the ones that i normally used on my Z32. when i unknowingly switched to the 55Y filters, i did notice a slight decrease in power, a bit darker in oil color when changing (although that could've been due to more city driving than normal), etc. when you guys mention the startup valve or lifter tick, what are you referring to? is it the tick that goes away after the engine gets to normal operating temps? if so, that tick is usually the warped exhaust studs on the VG engines. although it's not a typical "problem", it's more of an annoyance than anything. i've yet to hear an actual problem linked to the infamous tick, but i wouldn't doubt it if there were some.

doubt it's the security feature. if it were, it wouldn't crank at all since it's typically a starter kill. possibly your ignition if you say rain got into the truck overnight.

throttle response will improve. whether or not you actual get any real power gains is questionable because you'll be getting on the gas more often and it'll be a little misconceiving as to your actual "gains". i bought mine off of infinitipartsusa.com. it was the cheapest that i found. $120 shipped, IIRC. got to take a look at my receipt. heat shield will do next to nothing for you. having the filter in the engine bay will suck in warm air whether or not you have a heat shield or not. that's why it's called a WAI. don't get caught up in the heat shield because it will do extremely little to nothing as far as performance is concerned. BTW, i love my POP and JWT makes a great product in the POP charger.

what's vibrating? does it get worse or better with speed? probably balance. pin plating during the balance does wonders.

if you have the SE (which it looks like since that's what it says in your profile) with the 265/70/15, you should be able to stuff the 31s in there with little problem. as it's been said already, you MIGHT rub just a little bit at full lock, but it'll be very minimal. if you had the LE or XE, you'll probably rub more because of some of the differences (which were stated in another recent thread). some of those differences including the turning radius, and wheel offset, IIRC.

no input? thoughts? experiences?

yes, thread revival, i know. has anyone with a 2G R50 done this? this guy has a 1G R50 and i just want to make sure the procedure is the same. sounds like he has a proper method and is very similar to what i did on my G20. only thing different with what i did on my G20 was clip a wire from the foglight relay and spliced it into the the sidelights (not a parking light, but a light that comes on next to the headlight). that way, it came on with parking lights, low beams, and high beams. on the same note, has anyone gone into the lighting and setup a couple relays to prevent the lights from experiencing voltage drop? My link

are you saying that Champ Labs is buying out Honeywell? or is Allied Signal selling their Honeywell share to Champ Labs? not sure what you're getting at exactly. last i heard, Allied Signal still owns Honeywell, who obviously still makes quite a bit of filters. i know Champ makes quite a few like the Mobil 1, Motul i believe, and the STP. those are the most popular that i know of, and WIX/Dana make a few filters as well. again, i really like the design of the Purolators (who make their own filters), and there were some people that did cross-sections of several filters that helped solidify why i like them. here's one website i like to refer to every now and then. My link

Yeah, i used to use it a lot many yeqrs ago, but when i saw a bunch of the oil analysis of it, i kicked it to the curb since i was paying a ridiculous price for it (even when i bought it from Costco! Haha) and it had a very similar analysis that a cheap wal mart brand like supertech had. Granted mobil 1 is slightly better than supertech, but it didn't justify the cost in my eyes.

Not on an R50, but on a WD21, armada, tundra, and an older chrerokee as far as vehicles that i've driven regularly (less experience on the tundra though). I've also gotten a lot of time on various SUVs in a on/off road road course with Rod Hall through my work, but no. Never on an R50. What has to be understood at the same time is that many that have upgraded their tires, like yourself 01silvapathy, have upgraded your tires when you increased the size. IIRC, you were on some michelin cross terrains, then upgraded to some bfg all terrains. The bfgs undoubtedly have better traction on the road than the cross terrains did/do since the cross terrains are simply a street tire. Again, i wasn't trying to get on tekaz or anyone else. Just saying that a statement like "it feels almost the same as stock" isn't true and shouldn't be said to someone who doesn't appear to know what to expect. That's all i'm saying. Truce.