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I think it should hold it just fine. You probably won't even need to get the railgrab towers and crossbars. Pretty sure they make clips that will allow the basketcase to clip and be secured to the stock crossbars. BTW, i want to run 15s on the truck as well. Check out the thread in the pinned topics forum. There are a few guys running it that are just barely clearing the calipers. You'd have to get the right offset and everything to make sure it clears, but it should. If not, i hear that a little grinding of the caliper will help that.

i have the same rack as you. i don't hold as much stuff as some of the other guys do, but all my rack consists of are the Yakima crossbars, Rail Grab towers, and depending on the season, they have either bike racks or snowboard racks. you can put a basket on top, like the Yakima Basketcase or the Thule Moab basket. i think those basketcases are supposed to hold somewhere around 150lbs, but not sure. and it really depends on what you plan on carrying on top and how heavy it is.

sorry, i don't delve into the aftermarket TPMS systems. Ford and older Chevrolets were the only ones that i am aware of that use the banded sensors. not really familiar with the aftermarket sensors or if they're readily available. OEM banded sensors look like this again, the reason i'm a bigger fan of these types are because you still use regular, valve stems, there's no need to replace the sensors or the equipment until the sensor's battery goes out, you break it, you swap it from wheel to another, etc. with the sensors that have the integrated, metal valve stem (like the OP), there are two kinds of sensors. sensors that have the metal, valve stems that are connected to the sensors and sensors that allow the metal, valve stems to be detached from the sensor. pros and cons of each. the integrated valve stems (i.e. Pacific or Siemens types) have cheaper service packs/rebuild kits (approximately $2/each). the service packs are essentially like new, valve stems since you always want to replace valve stems when you get new tires and such. bad thing is if you chip the metal stem or what not while wheeling or what have you, the whole sensor has to be replaced. the sensors with the detachable metal, valve stems (i.e. TRW or BERU type) have more expensive service packs since you'll be replacing the entire valve stem. they run approximately $8-$15/each. however, if you chip the valve stem while wheeling, all you have to replace is the service pack, not the entire sensor. hope that makes sense. lots of stuff goes into the TPMS system. one other reason why i'm not a real big fan of them.

they're easy to work on if you know what you're doing. i work on TPMS equipped vehicles (even ones with banded sensors) everyday and they're cake. working on a TPMS equipped vehicle, with low-profile, runflats is a bit of a PITA though! to the OP, if i were you, i would've gotten banded sensors, honestly. not as much maintenance and you wouldn't have to worry about replacing the sensor or service pack, etc. as opposed to banded sensors. then again, i don't like TPMS at all and feel they're rather pointless if you stay on top of your air checks, anyway.

just an FYI, most factory TPMS are programmed to flip the light on when the pressure drops to 25% of what it is set at. most systems allow the ability to set the pressure when going through a reset procedure and it becomes 25% of that set pressure. typically, it works off of OEM settings. 25% of 25PSI (factory for Titans) would approximately be 8-9PSI under factory, which should activate the light at about 27PSI.

yeah, i'm still going back and forth. it's not going to be for a while so i still have time, i suppose.

i've been going back and forth between staying with 16s or going down to 15s. from what i've gathered so far, the 3.75" BS should BARELY clear the brakes. the few people that have them, they said they're not having any issues. even if you do get some rubbing, you can always grind down the calipers a bit. i want to go 15s mostly because of price of the wheels and price of the tires. i'll be running 31s down the road and a 31x10.5x15 is, on average, $30 cheaper than a 265/70/16.

check some of the other threads. there are a bunch of guys running 32s or P-metric equivalent 32s on the AC lift.

welcome and there's a good amount of info for you. it'll probably run you a little more and require some more custom fab to get things more offroad worthy, but there are a ton of guys on here that have really nice offroad-capable trucks.

which wheels and tire combo do you have?

ABS goes on and stops functioning mostly because the increased sizes of the tires. When you go about +10% over factory size, the ABS will typically start malfunctioning. Different vehicles vary, i've seen the 10% number as the general average. Some go earlier, some later.

VIS doesn't fit well. just get another one from a junkyard R50 or a part out. you can paint it CF, if you want the look. haha.

Ok. Good to hear. You're running the xtreme rock crawlers as well? I'm wondering if a different style wheel will clear it even more. Either way, that's good to hear. Thanks for the reply devonian!

Ok. Good to hear. You're running the xtreme rock crawlers as well? I'm wondering if a different style wheel will clear it even more. Either way, that's good to hear. Thanks for the reply devonian!

sorry for the thread bump, but i just want to clear this up really quick since i see many other 2G R50s with 15" steelies and 32s or what have you. is it necessary on all 15" steelies to grind down a part of the caliper? or just certain ones/styles/backspacing? if i do decide to go with 15" steelies from my 16" tri-stakes, i was thinking about what many others have in the ProComp Xtreme Rock Crawlers in a 15"x8" with a 3.75" backspace. for those guys that are running these wheels right now (i think rick13, OTR96, and a few others are running these wheels and some larger tires), did you have to grind down the caliper? or are the wheel styles and backspacing clearing the caliper well enough to where nothing needs to be done? thanks for any insight, gents!

to get a level lift, you'd need to go one of two ways. first, get the matching MD front coils with strut spacers or get HD coils in the front. the former will give you a closer to stock ride, the HD will give you a stiffer ride. i have the HD/MD combo and i don't feel it's too stiff, but it's all on your own perception. i've driven in a lot of stiff vehicles from my 240SX to my 300ZX, so the HD/MD combo is nothing to me. if you get just MD all around with no strut spacers, you'll get some rake because that's how the vehicle was originally designed.

or you can just buy some new steel wheels? those are pretty cheap. like the procomps or what not.

exhaust sounds good. just an FYI, the K&N FIPK is not a CAI. a CAI drops the cone filter down into the bumper where the coldest air is. that's simply a WAI with a heat shield. basically, if the filter isn't down into the bumper, it's simply a WAI.

i've had the BFG ATs and the Michelin LTX AT2. both were great. the only other AT tire that i'd get would be the Bridgestone AT Revo2. other than that, nothing else compares as far as all the tires i've been on and the driving that i do.

Both my brother and i bought our tow hitches off of amazon. Can't beat free shipping and no tax! We both have the Curt round tubes. $140 shipped, i believe.

updated.... Year: 2002 Lift: OME HD 928 front with KYB GR2/Excel G (i have one of each and they are exactly the same) and OME MD 922 rear with KYB Gas a Just Wheels: stock 16" tri-stake Tires : Michelin X Radial LT2 - 255/70/16 obviously no rub. didn't rub before, doesn't rub now. still have a ton of tire left, but am still considering if i should go with 265/70/16 when i get new tires again down the road. not sure since i don't think i can stuff a 265/70/16 into the spare wheel spot without it rubbing on the panhard or my tow hitch. one day i'll grab a tire and see if i can or not or if i can deal with not having a true, full-size spare if i go with the bigger size. no pictures because i'm lazy about taking pictures. sorry. maybe one of these days. haha. iPhone pic. not that great, but it does the job well enough for now. am probably going to be getting some ProComp black steelies in 16x8 with a 3.75" BS sometime in the near future. who knows when exactly, but sometime soon, i'm hoping.

they look stock. i'm pretty sure they are, i've seen some other 1G R50s that have the same flares. that is, unless they've all got the same aftermarket ones.

you won't need strut spacers if you have the HD fronts and MD rears. my HDs are starting to settle some more and it's getting close to even. fronts still look a little higher than my rears right now. the OMEs give quite a bit of lift, especially the HD/MD combo. my bro has MD all around and got about an 1" in the front and about 1.5" in the rear. i didn't bother to measure my front, but i would put my front at about a 1.5"-1.75" in the front and about 1.5" in the rear.

Axle pop? Elaborate please. Unless you're talking about the struts topping out. That's going to happen be ause the struts are topping out since the coils are taller than stock and the struts we all put on are stock length. Only way to get rid of the top out bang is to get some straps.

No, i got HD front and MD in the rear. That's probably the difference.