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a lot of people run those coils and really like them. i just recently installed OME on mine, but that's just a preference thing. they appear to be pretty good quality, and don't worry about their wheel recommendation. stock wheels work just fine on it. if you upsize to larger wheels, you may need to get spacers to clear the tire from the strut/coil.

on a side note, when did you order your coils? i ordered mine on 7/8/11, got them about mid last week. just got everything installed yesterday with my bro. only thing that was weird was that steve didn't tell me when he shipped the coils and didn't send me tracking info. no matter since i got them quickly and in a very timely manner. about your bumpstops, i really doubt you need them. when i've lowered some vehicles, it was recommended to cut the bumpstops so you don't get the "bottom out" feeling. i don't wheel my truck like some of the other guys do, but i don't doubt i'll be getting close to the bumpstops on a very regular basis especially with a lift.

from the looks of your picture, it appears that you don't have any running bars, so it looks like you'll have to get the permanent roof racks. another bet would be to get a cargo basket of sorts, attach it to your factory racks, and go from there. best bang for your buck would be to go used. you'll save pretty much 50% from retail price and you'll typically be able to find them in relatively good condition.

i'd strongly suggest against the FJ. when they came out, i thought they were pretty cool and appeared to be able to handle a lot. once i got into one, i immediately hated it. the blind spots never end and my opinion of it never got better from there.

an alternative to that would be search the internet on your own instead of having someone else do it for you? just sayin'.

center bore is smaller on the Titan wheels, so no.

you'll get more money from selling it as-is or even as a trade-in. you won't much for scrap. if the body or interior isn't in great condition, the only thing worthwhile may be the engine, tires and/or wheels. not a whole lot else. electronics and little pieces here and there, but no where near as much as an outright sell would get you. i've never done the crushed metal so i don't know much about that. i'd look into what it may run you if you did some of that work yourself.

ARB doesn't make OME HD coils for the rear, only MD for the rear.

i don't think you'll need that. there should be a few how-to's around and just check an FSM to help fill in any blanks. it's a very simple install, especially the rears. if you just jack up the truck, take the wheels off, and look around for 10 minutes or so. i'm certain you could figure it out without any of that (as long as you're decently, mechanically inclined).

You've got the right idea. For city/stop and go driving, AC off and windows down. For highway driving, AC on, windows up, so as to reduce the amount of drag.

one method that people like to use is the chalk test. put a line of chalk across the tire, drive it about 50 or so feet and see how the chalk wears. that'll give you a decent idea of the footprint of the tire. with FLT sizing though, you should be able to inflate a little higher than 32PSI and still get pretty even treadwear. most FLT sized tires have reinforced sidewalls to allow for aired-down driving, and still put a proper footprint down.

^^^^ it'll vary quite a bit depending on the tire size people are running, amount of load people are carrying, etc. the higher you go, the harder it'll ride, and you'll get a little bit better MPG, but you'll wear out the center tread faster, and are also reducing the size of the tire's footprint on the road. i've got 255/70/16 on my truck right now and comfortably run 32PSI. not too harsh, still rides smoothly, and it's just a hair overinflated. since your tires are flotation sized, your results will be quite a bit different.

a POP or WAI won't be loud, whatsoever. an exhaust will easily be like 5-10x louder than an itty-bitty cone filter.

my old WD21 used to do that. never traced it down, but it's normally the lift gate that i'm aware of. even now, if i don't close the lift gate well enough, it'll flicker until i close it properly.

PM member, fluerys. he makes some pretty nice skidplates. i forget his website, but he's easy to find.

I know that amazon sells a decent amount of stuff. You just have to have the part number. I know you're not looking for it but they sell a few of the OME coils, kyb shocks and struts, and some others. Not the AC lift that i've seen.

i think i see a yellow TJM sticker on the bumper.

yes, pair, and amazon still appears to be the best buy. free shipping and no tax for most people (definitely us in CA, anyways). you can use the AUTO mode for the 4x4, but you simply have to be absolutely certain that your hubs are locked. just like with the floor shifter 4x4, you should only be switching into 4x4 when your hubs are locked. and to reiterate, the truck will drive the same with the manual hubs locked as it does stock.

doesn't really matter to be totally honest with you. just because something hasn't happened doesn't mean it can't or won't. just because guys are professional mechanics doesn't make it less dangerous. just like someone else said, idiots and/or kids can easily come by and release the jack. i've seen brand new jacks give out for whatever faulty, defective reason. but, it doesn't really matter. it's your choice to work as safe or unsafe as you like. EDIT: BTW, as far as the Costco tire centers in the Sacramento County area, you won't see a car lifted on a manual jack without two other things in place. those being a wheel chock and a jackstand. not only is it an instilled guideline for us, but an automatic write-up, demotion, removal from department, or even termination. that's us and that's why we're different from other tire shops. not to toot our own horns, but toot.

I wasn't going to, but since you asked for it.... You need to use a jackstand. Guys in the tire shop (not ours, thankfully) have gotten hurt pretty badly having not used a jackstand and we're not under the cars at all. They had maybe a foot or a partial leg barely under and gotten pretty well injured. So, yes, i'd say you would've gotten hurt a pretty fair amount.

31s will fit into the R50s with a little bit of rubbing, but not much.

not sure if the '01s had a different option than my '02, but there are only 3 positions for my floor shifter. they are 2H, 4H, and 4L. if yours is the same, you cannot leave the hubs in the free position in any other position than the 2H. switching the floor shifter into anything else while the hubs are free/unlocked will damage the transfer case.

My light usually comes on at about 16gal/4gal left, give or take. My manual also says 20 7/8, which i just say 20 gallons. Keep it simple. Most fuel lights should come on with around 50-60 miles left to drive before it starts sputtering. At least that's what i've typically noticed.

That's the same thing borla is saying to pathy owners who are asking for a tuned-specific performance exhaust for next to nothing.

No, 15k to cover their overhead to do R&D, test fits, dyno tests, etc which would take care of their finances in case people don't buy their exhausts.