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not trying to put you on blast, but that's a pretty ridiculous statement to make unless you've done all the road style brake testing that is done on vehicles when they go through an actual road test in stock form and modified form. if you haven't, then the brakes do not feel anything like stock, period. that's a statement that should not be made to someone who isn't sure of what to expect or anything like that. again, not trying to start anything, just saying.

on the first couple oil changes, i'd do them at shorter intervals though since the full synthetic will get into areas that regular, dino oil was not able to. IMO, i would just get some regular, store brand, full synthetic (like the SuperTech from Wal Mart). it runs almost exactly the same as the Mobil 1, Chevron, etc., and there are very little to no benefits of the Mobil 1 over something full syn like SuperTech. you'll only notice larger differences when you step up to something like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. many of the oil analysis' for different full syn oils seem to show that you're just wasting money on Mobil 1 and the like. it's better to simply get some kind of full syn and a better filter. best filter i've come across so far are the Purolator PureOne filters. pretty awesome for about the same price as OEM or cheaper. most of the filters out on the market are manufactured by Honeywell, which makes FRAM, who also makes the majority of the OEM filters nowadays. just an FYI. here's an oil analysis from a G20 site when i used to have one, but i believe it was taken from a Supra forum. My link

Don't think 32" tires will get you near there, but once the tire size gets to about +10%, i believe, your ABS system will stop functioning properly.

Yeah, there's a handful here. There are some really well done Qs too. Forget his sn, but it's black and has the AC lift, i believe with a 4" SFD too. Really clean truck.

Here's another thing to check. Are there any rocks, nails, or anything that have embedded themselves into your tire(s)? Just a little thing to check. I get a lot of members coming into the tire center that hear a constant, rotationally varying click and all it is is a rock in between the tread. Doubt it's the problem, but you never know.

On the same note as the person referred to about your wheels, what kind of wheels are they? Are they tape weights inside? Pound on all around? Many times wheels weights will hit brake calipers or what not that can cause a click. Check the weights at every position. Also, if you have the WARN manual hubs, the snap ring in the hub should be all the way inside the hub. You'd probably have to snug the hub a bit just to have enough room to getthat snap ring on. Grab a snap ring tool and that'll make it tons easier to get it on and off. The axle should only move maybe a cm or so with the snap ring in place. Does the clicking come only from one side? Aside from rotational speed, does it change in volume intensity, can it felt through turns, acceleration, braking, or in the steering wheel, pedal, etc.?

looks good! might check that out and see what they'll charge to get it over the border. thanks for the info!

just replace the hoses while you're there. they're probably old and cracked, anyways.

you'll be increasing overall diameter about an inch. that'd put you at about a 30.5" tire which should clear just fine.

as most have already said, x-drilled and/or slotted rotors are unnecessary. even when i was auto-xing my cars a while back (mainly my S13 FB and Z32), i didn't even use x-drilled or slotted rotors. i did on my S13 for a bit, but found that ate away at my pads a lot faster than necessary while not providing proper enough of a braking improvement to warrant changing my pads out as often as i had to. with my Z32, when i did a simple brake upgrade of CZP stock fitment brake upgrade which included front and rear blank rotors, PBR MM pads, CZP SS lines, full fluid flush with ATE super blue brake fluid, and a CZP brake master cylinder brace, my braking improved drastically. i wish i could've done the mods one by one to see how each affected braking feel and which affected it more, but i can say that those few things improved braking ability significantly. as someone had already said, x-drilled and slotted rotors are usually used for vehicles stopping from much higher speeds that our trucks don't frequent much at all, as well as from an aesthetic standpoint. i had plans to get a BBK for my Z32 before i sold it, but i was simply going to go with blank rotors once again, anyways, with the BrakeMan BBK where you get a 13' rotor, 4-piston caliper, and much improved cooling vanes on the rotor. either way, i'd go with blank rotors, and improve some of the pieces around the stock system. that's just me.

I'm sure brakes from other nissans will fit. Of course, it's all just a matter of knowing which ones. Haha. What you got to remember if thinking about swapping the brakes from a titans or armadas is that they're on 18" wheels. That would probably require larger wheels for us which many may not want to do. I'd look into the R51 first, if anything. That is, if they got upgraded brakes. Not sure what everyone has done, but why not doing some other smaller mods to make the current system better? Like SS lines, upgraded rotor with better cooling vanes, and running some better brake fluid through the system. Better pads would also help too. I haven't yet looked into this since i don't do a whole lot of towing or wheeling. Just thinking out loud since i did something similar with my old Z32. Got SS lines, upgraded stock size stillen rotors that had better cooling vanes, better pads, and fluid, and the brakes were night and day.

get an actual tread depth gauge and measure how much tread is actually left. 1/2 inch of tread left would mean there is appx some 10-13mm of tread left (since there is about 2.5cm or 25mm in 1 inch). having somewhere around 10-13mm of tread left means that you still have A LOT of tire left since most AT or MT tires start with somewhere around 16/32nds.

piste, i think you'll be happy with them. i'm always more of a proponent of factory sizing or something close to it. if one understands some of the issues that may arise from switching from a P-metric to standard sizing, it's perfectly fine to run with them. luckily with Bridgestone, they have a 30 day ride and try policy. so, make use of that if you need to.

nah, i didn't take it as that. sometimes they're difficult concepts to grasp. tires play a huge role in all vehicles and it's quite a bit more intensive than some like to think it is. anyways, yes, the load tables is where you need to look at. i'll do some of the math for you, but it's not as hard as some make it to be. so, you'd look up your factory size (265/70/15) and go to the factory PSI that your vehicle is supposed to be set at (26psi), and that would give you the weight, in lbs, that the tire can handle when properly inflated. for yours with the factory size and recommended psi, it lists it at 2017 lbs. when you go with alternate sizing, you go to that size and check the weights that the tire can handle. so, we'll go to the 31x10.5x15, and look for the psi that will be just a hair over that 2017lbs or exactly it (never under). here's where it gets a little tricky, usually you'll have to do some math, but it looks like Bridgestone listed it so that won't be the case here. surprisingly, your tires should be inflated to quite a bit more than factory according to the Bridgestone load tables. with the 31" tire, it states that your tires should be inflated to 45psi since at 45 psi, it will handle 2100lbs. this is more than likely because the flotation sizing of these tires. again, this gets into more stuff that is somewhat of a tangent to our current discussion, but still somewhat applies. if you're looking to have the truck handle relatively the same and be a highway only type of driver, then 45psi should be what you set it at. if you do any wheeling, the flotation sizing (standard size tires like the 31x10.5x15) will help that because it will allow the ability to "air-down" the tire to increase your contact patch on the surface. airing it down will increase the length, not the width, of the contact patch but the tire's sidewall will still remain relatively intact because of the higher ply rating. can you air down the tires more for everyday driving? of course, you can. again, this is where you come into a bit of a crossroads. what are you willing to sacrifice? ride quality? tire wear? if you were to air the tires at 30psi or 35psi, even, you'll get more contact patch on the road (always a plus), you may wear the shoulders a bit more depending on your driving, then again you may not. all depends on your driving style. you will also be decreasing the load carrying capacity of the truck. remember the 2100lbs and 2017lbs for the respective tires at the proper inflations? here's where it comes into effect. as someone already mentioned, those weights are for EACH tire, and obviously our trucks don't weigh 8000-9000lbs. what those weights play into are during driving situations. when you straight-line brake (no matter how hard, but especially during harder braking) where does the weight of the truck go to? front, obviously. the two tires in the front have to be able to handle the shift of the weight during straight-line braking. same goes for hard accelerations. same would go for braking through a turn. if you were to brake while turning, where does the weight of the vehicle go to? it would go mostly to the front inside tire. having said that, your tires won't automatically explode if you aired down to 35psi with the 31" flotation tires. you should get a little better traction since you're getting more contact patch on the road, but it will alter how the vehicle handles in braking, acceleration, turning, etc. either way you choose to slice it, you'll have to give one thing up for another, and unfortunately there's really no happy medium when changing from passenger rated tires to flotation sizing. lots of typing. lots of info to digest. i'm sure you'll be very confused because even i got a little confused in there a few times. EDIT: my recommendation? i'd stick with the factory size. Nissan did the 1G R50 owners a little dirty with the use of the 265/70/15 because there aren't many options available in that size as i'm sure you've come to find out. and again, nothing wrong with going to the flotation sizing, but you'll have to figure some of those factors will play into your overall experience with your new set of tires. or, as you said, it might be a little better for you to even get a new set of wheels if your budget calls for it. if you got some 16" wheels, just rolling with a 255/70/16 or the stock 2G R50 size of 255/65/16. as far as Michelin/BFG is concerned, there's more options open for those two sizes, especially the 255/70/16, and they'll still be passenger rated so the transition will be a little better/easier.

Again, tire sidewall means nothing to how much a tire should be set at for a vehicle. All michelin and bfg passenger tires have a max psi of 44. Other brands will vary slightly. I'll try to use another example to explain this. A 265/70/15 set at 26psi will put down a contact patch about the size of a 1/4 size of an 8 1/2 x 11" paper, roughly of course. When you put the larger 31" LT tire on there and set it at 26psi, let's say that that new 31" tire will only put down a contact patch about 1/2 the normal contact patch size because that tire is stiffer and doesn't displace as much of the loaded tire onto the pavement. Not sure if that made sense. Let's think of a stock spring compared to a stiffer aftermarket spring. If you put 100lbs of pressure on the stock spring, it displaces, say 2". You put that same 100lbs on the stiffer aftermarket spring, it only displaces maybe 3/4" because that spring is inherently stiffer tuan the other. Same concept applies to tires. Unless your truck is normally overloaded with weight and random things that you may haul, 34psi is overinflated for you (even moreso when the tires get hot if you're using regular compressed air, but that's a whole other topic). Hope this is making more sense. If not, not sure what to tell you.

Recmemded factory pressure is easily found on the driver side door placard. Open up the driver door andthere should be a sticker on the door jamb. If not, call up any local tire shop and they can easily tell you. Better yet, have the nissan dealership tell you. Remember, an owner's manual covers a broad range of the same vehicle for sometimes more than one year. Also, you never go by what the sidewall of the tire says. That tells you nothing about what a tire should be inflated to.

Original poster already said his issue was a balance problem. Other guy, fisherdude, hasn't responded amd probably won't. His is more than likely a balance issue because of improper balance techniques on that type of wheel. Working in the industry for so long, that's extremely common with the aftermarket steel wheels.

I'm on my phone and didn't see the date. Just responding to a message however old it may have been since it got dug up. And at least my info was of some use because there are many people with those steel wheels that this would apply to.

Fisherdude, those steel wheels are prettu hard to bend unless they go through some serious stuff, and it's got to be pretty bad. Typically, the problem is how tue owner usually wants the balance done. They usually don't want weights shown on the outside so the shops are forced to do either a static balance (pound on weight on the inside rim only) or an alloy 1 (pound on on inside rim and a tape weight as close to the inside of tue rim flange as possoble). Either of those methods won't get a good, proper balance even if the tech used a pin plate on the wheel (which should always be used for truck wheels, btw). Reason being is that even with an alloy 1 balance, tuat inside tape weight isn't far enough outside to balance out that inside pound on weight an won't get a proper balance. Typically, it'll call for some excess 10 oz of weight to get it anywhere close to zeroed out. Try to have a dynamic balance done on those wheels (pound on weights on inside and outside rims) and it will more than likely zero out with relative ease.

In all the michelin classes i've been to, the "M/S" in the name stands for multi-surface, however all tires that are made nowadays are m+s rated meaning they're mud and snow rated. Two different things that confuse people all the time. If the revo2s in the 265/70/16 are passenger rated, go for it. Not certain if they are, i'd have to double check my order catalog when igo back to work. Many times the AT tires are at least an LRC/D tire though. Just remember that when ypu do size up to the 16" wheel, you'll still have to do a little bit of math to make sure that ypu've got the correct pressure settings for that tire. Usually when successors of tires are brought out, they'll come with a mileage warranty to sweeten the deal. It's mostly a marketing ploy to make the consumer truly believe that tue new tire is a better version of the old, whi h it usually is.

The LTX M/S is a mud and snow tire. Pretty much any and all tire that is made nowadays are mud and snow, hence the M+S rating. That rating really doesn't mean much to be honest. It's more or less a standard and something that you shouldn't allow help you decide which tire to buy. The difference is the style of tire. The ltx ms is comparable to bridgestone's dueler 684 ht. Michelin's ltx at2 is comparable to the revo2s and the obviously the bfg at ko. Load carrying capacity is actually very important. Not only is it helping to carry the weight of the truck through turns, braking, etc. Load carrying capacity also helps you determine the proper air to run in your tires especially when upsizing to larger wheels or what have you.

the Revos are slowly getting phased out. they're still making some of the Revos in some sizes for people that are still on them. let's say for 5 years, there are 100,000 Revos sold all with some kind of replacement/road hazard warranty. then in the 6th year, the Revo2s are introduced and the Revos are completely discontinued and unavailable. well, when the Revo owners have a problem with their tires, they're going to need a replacement, but they're no longer available. so, they'll have to get the Revo2s, but the Revo2s are a different tread design (slightly, but still different), and 4x4 vehicles will typically always need 4 tires at any given time. consumers will not be happy if they had bought four Revos in year 4, and will have to buy four new Revo2s (at a higher price too since they're new and have new tech), even though their Revos probably still have like 75% tread left or what not. it will benefit you, as a consumer, to go with the Revo2s for future purposes because the Revos are getting phased out. it's just that some sizes are so much more popular which don't allow the manufacturers the ability to cease all production of the tires.

as much as i love Michelin/BFG, something needs to be clarified here. the LTX M/S is NOT meant for offroading, super heavy snow conditions, etc. think of them as the "Jack of All Trades, master of none". they do offer a great, smooth, comfortable ride, and i'll explain why yours may not have been. the LTX M/S and X Radial LT are all around tires like i was saying. M/S standing for "Multi-Surface". they're a highway style tire that can handle some lightweight offroading (i.e. dirt, and small rocks), some snow, and should be gripping very well in any other conditions. now, as to why you may not have gotten the ride that you were expecting.... stepping from a 265/70/15, which is a passenger loaded tire and design, and stepping to a LRC/6-ply tire makes a HUGE difference. your load carrying capacity is increased since you're stepping from a 4-ply passenger tire to a 6-ply LT tire. this will, in turn, alter how you should be modifying your air pressures as well. hopefully this will make sense, and i'll try to make this as easily understood as possible. if you were to take a quarter of an 8 1/2" x 11" piece of paper, that will show you approximately how much tread of your tire is on the ground at any given time. granted, the contact patch will change as the tire gets skinnier and taller, or wider and shorter, but it stays approximately the same (this is taking into consideration that your tires are PROPERLY inflated). the pathy's typical air pressure is somewhere in the range of 26-30 psi all around depending on year/model, etc (i know mine is 30psi all around with a P255/65/16 tire). let's say that yours is supposed to be at 26psi with a P265/70/15 tire. that air pressure with that tire will give you the largest possible contact patch on the ground where the tires will wear evenly, you'll get optimized vehicle performance, fuel consumption, etc., etc. (as you can see, A LOT is affected by tires and air pressures alone). so, when you switch from a P265/70/15 to an LT31x10.5x15 LRC, your air pressures MUST be adjusted accordingly or the truck won't behave the same. say you inflate the tires to the recommended 26psi. since that tire has more load carrying capacity, it won't be putting the same contact patch on the ground as a P265/70/15 does at 26 psi. thus, affecting how much traction that the tire has on the road (which will account for your traction, or lack thereof, in the rain), the harsher ride (not to mention anytime you step from a passenger rated tire to an LT tire, ride comfort MUST be sacrificed), and a host of other issues. what should you have inflated the tires to? well, i'd have to double check my Michelin load tables to be able to accurately tell you, but it would've obviously had to have been LESS than the recommend 26psi. i can almost guarantee that the majority of members on this forum probably don't run the proper PSI in their tires, nor do they adjust their PSI when they oversize their tires. not that that's a bad thing, but just saying. hell, even i run 1-2 PSI more than my recommended 30psi because i drive my truck a bit harder through corners and such and i prefer a little bit more stiffness through a corner. lots of things to take into consideration. on a side note, i can say that the LTX MS and X Radial LT are smoother rides than any of the AT tires out (BFG AT KO, Michelin LTX AT2, Bridgestone AT Revo2, etc., etc.), and that's just going off of my own personal experiences with them, as well as testing them on road courses through my work. of course this is all my own personal opinion, but i have yet to meet someone who felt an AT tire was a smoother ride when comparing it to the same exact size, spec, etc. to a HT or MS tire like the LTX MS or Dueler HT 684s, etc. i think i'll stop now. that's a lot of typing. haha.

you'll have better options in the standard 31" sizing compared to the stock 265/70/15s. Revo2s are the successor/better version of the Revos as others have mentioned. if you don't need an AT tire, stick with the LTX MS or X Radial LT (found at club shops like Costco). those are more highway tread style tires that give a more comfortable ride compared to the ATs. not to mention, the LTX MS2 and X Radial LT2s that are now out are backed with 70k warranties from Michelin. i've seen Revos get in the 70k range, but it's all dependent on what the driver is using them in. what kinds of conditions, driving styles, etc. most of the highway driven, and little to no offroading AT tires should be getting at least 60k, and i've seen Revos come back with about that much. the Revo2s would be one of the very few Bridgestone tires that i'd ever buy, but i'm a Michelin/BFG person myself and comparing what is offered from BFS and Michelin/BFG, i'll take Michelin/BFG any day of the week. my own personal opinion though.

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