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good luck trying to find that german castrol syn. it's near impossible, from what i understand.

OEM Nissan filters were switched on the VG oil filters from the 60U, japanese made ones to the Honeywell 55Y filters. the 60U and 55Y are a part of the part numbers for the VGs, and i'm pretty sure the SOHC VGs used the same filters as the DOHC VGs, as the 60U filters were the ones that i normally used on my Z32. when i unknowingly switched to the 55Y filters, i did notice a slight decrease in power, a bit darker in oil color when changing (although that could've been due to more city driving than normal), etc. when you guys mention the startup valve or lifter tick, what are you referring to? is it the tick that goes away after the engine gets to normal operating temps? if so, that tick is usually the warped exhaust studs on the VG engines. although it's not a typical "problem", it's more of an annoyance than anything. i've yet to hear an actual problem linked to the infamous tick, but i wouldn't doubt it if there were some.

doubt it's the security feature. if it were, it wouldn't crank at all since it's typically a starter kill. possibly your ignition if you say rain got into the truck overnight.

throttle response will improve. whether or not you actual get any real power gains is questionable because you'll be getting on the gas more often and it'll be a little misconceiving as to your actual "gains". i bought mine off of infinitipartsusa.com. it was the cheapest that i found. $120 shipped, IIRC. got to take a look at my receipt. heat shield will do next to nothing for you. having the filter in the engine bay will suck in warm air whether or not you have a heat shield or not. that's why it's called a WAI. don't get caught up in the heat shield because it will do extremely little to nothing as far as performance is concerned. BTW, i love my POP and JWT makes a great product in the POP charger.

what's vibrating? does it get worse or better with speed? probably balance. pin plating during the balance does wonders.

if you have the SE (which it looks like since that's what it says in your profile) with the 265/70/15, you should be able to stuff the 31s in there with little problem. as it's been said already, you MIGHT rub just a little bit at full lock, but it'll be very minimal. if you had the LE or XE, you'll probably rub more because of some of the differences (which were stated in another recent thread). some of those differences including the turning radius, and wheel offset, IIRC.

no input? thoughts? experiences?

yes, thread revival, i know. has anyone with a 2G R50 done this? this guy has a 1G R50 and i just want to make sure the procedure is the same. sounds like he has a proper method and is very similar to what i did on my G20. only thing different with what i did on my G20 was clip a wire from the foglight relay and spliced it into the the sidelights (not a parking light, but a light that comes on next to the headlight). that way, it came on with parking lights, low beams, and high beams. on the same note, has anyone gone into the lighting and setup a couple relays to prevent the lights from experiencing voltage drop? My link

are you saying that Champ Labs is buying out Honeywell? or is Allied Signal selling their Honeywell share to Champ Labs? not sure what you're getting at exactly. last i heard, Allied Signal still owns Honeywell, who obviously still makes quite a bit of filters. i know Champ makes quite a few like the Mobil 1, Motul i believe, and the STP. those are the most popular that i know of, and WIX/Dana make a few filters as well. again, i really like the design of the Purolators (who make their own filters), and there were some people that did cross-sections of several filters that helped solidify why i like them. here's one website i like to refer to every now and then. My link

Yeah, i used to use it a lot many yeqrs ago, but when i saw a bunch of the oil analysis of it, i kicked it to the curb since i was paying a ridiculous price for it (even when i bought it from Costco! Haha) and it had a very similar analysis that a cheap wal mart brand like supertech had. Granted mobil 1 is slightly better than supertech, but it didn't justify the cost in my eyes.

Not on an R50, but on a WD21, armada, tundra, and an older chrerokee as far as vehicles that i've driven regularly (less experience on the tundra though). I've also gotten a lot of time on various SUVs in a on/off road road course with Rod Hall through my work, but no. Never on an R50. What has to be understood at the same time is that many that have upgraded their tires, like yourself 01silvapathy, have upgraded your tires when you increased the size. IIRC, you were on some michelin cross terrains, then upgraded to some bfg all terrains. The bfgs undoubtedly have better traction on the road than the cross terrains did/do since the cross terrains are simply a street tire. Again, i wasn't trying to get on tekaz or anyone else. Just saying that a statement like "it feels almost the same as stock" isn't true and shouldn't be said to someone who doesn't appear to know what to expect. That's all i'm saying. Truce.

not trying to put you on blast, but that's a pretty ridiculous statement to make unless you've done all the road style brake testing that is done on vehicles when they go through an actual road test in stock form and modified form. if you haven't, then the brakes do not feel anything like stock, period. that's a statement that should not be made to someone who isn't sure of what to expect or anything like that. again, not trying to start anything, just saying.

on the first couple oil changes, i'd do them at shorter intervals though since the full synthetic will get into areas that regular, dino oil was not able to. IMO, i would just get some regular, store brand, full synthetic (like the SuperTech from Wal Mart). it runs almost exactly the same as the Mobil 1, Chevron, etc., and there are very little to no benefits of the Mobil 1 over something full syn like SuperTech. you'll only notice larger differences when you step up to something like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. many of the oil analysis' for different full syn oils seem to show that you're just wasting money on Mobil 1 and the like. it's better to simply get some kind of full syn and a better filter. best filter i've come across so far are the Purolator PureOne filters. pretty awesome for about the same price as OEM or cheaper. most of the filters out on the market are manufactured by Honeywell, which makes FRAM, who also makes the majority of the OEM filters nowadays. just an FYI. here's an oil analysis from a G20 site when i used to have one, but i believe it was taken from a Supra forum. My link

Don't think 32" tires will get you near there, but once the tire size gets to about +10%, i believe, your ABS system will stop functioning properly.

Yeah, there's a handful here. There are some really well done Qs too. Forget his sn, but it's black and has the AC lift, i believe with a 4" SFD too. Really clean truck.

Here's another thing to check. Are there any rocks, nails, or anything that have embedded themselves into your tire(s)? Just a little thing to check. I get a lot of members coming into the tire center that hear a constant, rotationally varying click and all it is is a rock in between the tread. Doubt it's the problem, but you never know.

On the same note as the person referred to about your wheels, what kind of wheels are they? Are they tape weights inside? Pound on all around? Many times wheels weights will hit brake calipers or what not that can cause a click. Check the weights at every position. Also, if you have the WARN manual hubs, the snap ring in the hub should be all the way inside the hub. You'd probably have to snug the hub a bit just to have enough room to getthat snap ring on. Grab a snap ring tool and that'll make it tons easier to get it on and off. The axle should only move maybe a cm or so with the snap ring in place. Does the clicking come only from one side? Aside from rotational speed, does it change in volume intensity, can it felt through turns, acceleration, braking, or in the steering wheel, pedal, etc.?

looks good! might check that out and see what they'll charge to get it over the border. thanks for the info!

just replace the hoses while you're there. they're probably old and cracked, anyways.

you'll be increasing overall diameter about an inch. that'd put you at about a 30.5" tire which should clear just fine.

as most have already said, x-drilled and/or slotted rotors are unnecessary. even when i was auto-xing my cars a while back (mainly my S13 FB and Z32), i didn't even use x-drilled or slotted rotors. i did on my S13 for a bit, but found that ate away at my pads a lot faster than necessary while not providing proper enough of a braking improvement to warrant changing my pads out as often as i had to. with my Z32, when i did a simple brake upgrade of CZP stock fitment brake upgrade which included front and rear blank rotors, PBR MM pads, CZP SS lines, full fluid flush with ATE super blue brake fluid, and a CZP brake master cylinder brace, my braking improved drastically. i wish i could've done the mods one by one to see how each affected braking feel and which affected it more, but i can say that those few things improved braking ability significantly. as someone had already said, x-drilled and slotted rotors are usually used for vehicles stopping from much higher speeds that our trucks don't frequent much at all, as well as from an aesthetic standpoint. i had plans to get a BBK for my Z32 before i sold it, but i was simply going to go with blank rotors once again, anyways, with the BrakeMan BBK where you get a 13' rotor, 4-piston caliper, and much improved cooling vanes on the rotor. either way, i'd go with blank rotors, and improve some of the pieces around the stock system. that's just me.

I'm sure brakes from other nissans will fit. Of course, it's all just a matter of knowing which ones. Haha. What you got to remember if thinking about swapping the brakes from a titans or armadas is that they're on 18" wheels. That would probably require larger wheels for us which many may not want to do. I'd look into the R51 first, if anything. That is, if they got upgraded brakes. Not sure what everyone has done, but why not doing some other smaller mods to make the current system better? Like SS lines, upgraded rotor with better cooling vanes, and running some better brake fluid through the system. Better pads would also help too. I haven't yet looked into this since i don't do a whole lot of towing or wheeling. Just thinking out loud since i did something similar with my old Z32. Got SS lines, upgraded stock size stillen rotors that had better cooling vanes, better pads, and fluid, and the brakes were night and day.

get an actual tread depth gauge and measure how much tread is actually left. 1/2 inch of tread left would mean there is appx some 10-13mm of tread left (since there is about 2.5cm or 25mm in 1 inch). having somewhere around 10-13mm of tread left means that you still have A LOT of tire left since most AT or MT tires start with somewhere around 16/32nds.

piste, i think you'll be happy with them. i'm always more of a proponent of factory sizing or something close to it. if one understands some of the issues that may arise from switching from a P-metric to standard sizing, it's perfectly fine to run with them. luckily with Bridgestone, they have a 30 day ride and try policy. so, make use of that if you need to.

nah, i didn't take it as that. sometimes they're difficult concepts to grasp. tires play a huge role in all vehicles and it's quite a bit more intensive than some like to think it is. anyways, yes, the load tables is where you need to look at. i'll do some of the math for you, but it's not as hard as some make it to be. so, you'd look up your factory size (265/70/15) and go to the factory PSI that your vehicle is supposed to be set at (26psi), and that would give you the weight, in lbs, that the tire can handle when properly inflated. for yours with the factory size and recommended psi, it lists it at 2017 lbs. when you go with alternate sizing, you go to that size and check the weights that the tire can handle. so, we'll go to the 31x10.5x15, and look for the psi that will be just a hair over that 2017lbs or exactly it (never under). here's where it gets a little tricky, usually you'll have to do some math, but it looks like Bridgestone listed it so that won't be the case here. surprisingly, your tires should be inflated to quite a bit more than factory according to the Bridgestone load tables. with the 31" tire, it states that your tires should be inflated to 45psi since at 45 psi, it will handle 2100lbs. this is more than likely because the flotation sizing of these tires. again, this gets into more stuff that is somewhat of a tangent to our current discussion, but still somewhat applies. if you're looking to have the truck handle relatively the same and be a highway only type of driver, then 45psi should be what you set it at. if you do any wheeling, the flotation sizing (standard size tires like the 31x10.5x15) will help that because it will allow the ability to "air-down" the tire to increase your contact patch on the surface. airing it down will increase the length, not the width, of the contact patch but the tire's sidewall will still remain relatively intact because of the higher ply rating. can you air down the tires more for everyday driving? of course, you can. again, this is where you come into a bit of a crossroads. what are you willing to sacrifice? ride quality? tire wear? if you were to air the tires at 30psi or 35psi, even, you'll get more contact patch on the road (always a plus), you may wear the shoulders a bit more depending on your driving, then again you may not. all depends on your driving style. you will also be decreasing the load carrying capacity of the truck. remember the 2100lbs and 2017lbs for the respective tires at the proper inflations? here's where it comes into effect. as someone already mentioned, those weights are for EACH tire, and obviously our trucks don't weigh 8000-9000lbs. what those weights play into are during driving situations. when you straight-line brake (no matter how hard, but especially during harder braking) where does the weight of the truck go to? front, obviously. the two tires in the front have to be able to handle the shift of the weight during straight-line braking. same goes for hard accelerations. same would go for braking through a turn. if you were to brake while turning, where does the weight of the vehicle go to? it would go mostly to the front inside tire. having said that, your tires won't automatically explode if you aired down to 35psi with the 31" flotation tires. you should get a little better traction since you're getting more contact patch on the road, but it will alter how the vehicle handles in braking, acceleration, turning, etc. either way you choose to slice it, you'll have to give one thing up for another, and unfortunately there's really no happy medium when changing from passenger rated tires to flotation sizing. lots of typing. lots of info to digest. i'm sure you'll be very confused because even i got a little confused in there a few times. EDIT: my recommendation? i'd stick with the factory size. Nissan did the 1G R50 owners a little dirty with the use of the 265/70/15 because there aren't many options available in that size as i'm sure you've come to find out. and again, nothing wrong with going to the flotation sizing, but you'll have to figure some of those factors will play into your overall experience with your new set of tires. or, as you said, it might be a little better for you to even get a new set of wheels if your budget calls for it. if you got some 16" wheels, just rolling with a 255/70/16 or the stock 2G R50 size of 255/65/16. as far as Michelin/BFG is concerned, there's more options open for those two sizes, especially the 255/70/16, and they'll still be passenger rated so the transition will be a little better/easier.