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doing my hubs today. taken the nuts off the stock hubs, but am now having trouble getting the hubs off. best way to get this thing off? i've been trying to hammer a flathead in between the hub, but to no avail. also been trying to get it in between the dust cap, but that thing isn't budging either. am i on the right track or is there a better way? maybe a crank puller? any help soon would greatly appreciated. trying to get this done ASAP. thanks!

not that i'm aware of. they're just rainguards, so that you can crack open your windows while it's raining and the rain won't get inside. they're not actually called wind deflectors, but window deflectors. rain deflectors that go in your windows.

not sure what you're asking, but OEM is the least expensive.

i meant availability as far as popularity of the size. much more likely to find that tire in most tire shops rather than having to order the tire. out of curiosity, why do you want to keep the stock width? why not go with a much more popular size in 265/65/17 or something of that nature?

i'd go with a 245/70/17 just because of availability of that tire and the options that you'll have for that size. without even looking into our special order catalog, i don't even think that size is available or is pretty limited in options as far as the tires we can get at Costco.

i know a lot of members here really like the GR2s, but from my experience with vehicles as far as the lowering aspects are concerned. anyways, they've always been considered factory replacements that are only slightly better. if you're looking to do more wheeling and handle heavier duty styles of driving, i'd go for something better, but that's just my opinion.

yes. so, having manual locking hubs and driving them in the "free wheel" option in 2H will essentially make our trucks like a true 2WD vehicle, thus saving on fuel, wear on the CV boots/axles as tekazgtr and others have said. if you do decide to use the 4WD, you MUST lock the hubs first, then switch into 4WD. if you don't (regardless of which TC you have), you will damage your TC.

nice! even though i don't do wheeling, some heavier duty CV boots would still be great.

again, it's kind of dependent on what you're actually taking into consideration. having a +/- 3% difference in tire size affects more than just clearance of the tire. i mean, we start getting into how it will make said vehicle handle, brake, accelerate, fuel consumption, and will also effectively change the gearing of the vehicle. i mean, it's the same as running proper air pressure in your tires. it gets overlooked quite a bit, but it really changes how that vehicle handles, how the tire wears, how much load carrying capacity it can take, etc, etc. same goes for when modifying the vehicle/engine as well. change one thing, it affects a lot others. get a more free-flowing exhaust, you lose out on low end torque but gain top end HP.

in what sense? as far as size, yes. especially in truck tires. when changing the profile of the tire just one P-metric increment for trucks, it will change it by more than 3% (which is the rule of thumb when using alternate sizing or plus sizing if you're sticking with factory sizing). IIRC, changing the stock 255/65/16 to 255/70/16 is a 3.6% change or so. going off of size alone and not the differences between tires and their sizing, it's essentially changing the tire from about a 29.5" tall tire, to almost a 30.25" tall tire.

search button is your friend. you're asking extremely simple questions that just a little reading can answer.

you should really think about using that search function or checking out the pinned topics.

at that rate, you'll more than likely be getting appx 100k+ km or 70k+ miles out of those. IIRC, those start at appx 15 or 16/32, and half tread would be at about 6-7/32nds. pathyboy, 31" is the suggested height of the tire. 10.5" is the width.

the 31s should fit fine without rubbing. if it does rub, it'll be very slight. to comment on something said earlier, you should never, ever, ever, ever flip directional tires backwards. if it grips better backwards, that just means it's a horrible tire, in the first place. if it can't do the job it was meant to do, the way it's supposed to be on the vehicle, it's bad enough the way it is. if you flip a directional tire backwards, water gets trapped in the tires and not just hydroplanes the tire, but is very susceptible to actually lifting the tire off the ground in a very fatalistic manner. similar idea with "siping" that Les Schwab does. another HORRIBLE idea. 1. you void any and all warranties when you have those tires siped. 2. if the tire didn't initially come with enough siping or traction that forces you to sipe them, they were a crappy tire to begin with. pathyboy, i'm slightly biased (but for good reason, IMO) towards Michelin/BFG, so i would say the BFG MT KM2s, hands down. the tech in that tire is not seen in any other tire out there. other companies try to mimic it, but to no avail. the Goodyear MTRs would be my next choice, possibly, but the BFG KM2s are very difficult to beat.

BFG MTs and call it a day. probably one of the best MTs out there, and BFG was the company that started the off-road tires and made it into what it is today. you can't go wrong at all with the BFG truck tires. they will cost you a decent chunk of change though. i'd go for the 31s, but it all depends on what you're getting into.

ahh, for some reason i thought he was on some 285/70/16s. i stand corrected.

i see. SFD in your future? or no? that's quite a bit of tire considering you're running a full 1" more than 01silvapathy since he's running the stock 16" wheels. still looks good though. which brush guard is that? i like the regular bull bars or something similar to yours.

even if the anti-drain back valve was faulty, it shouldn't cause a tick though. unless the filter didn't have a bypass valve either. most filters should have a bypass valve as well to prevent oil starvation, in case the filter element gets clogged up or what not.

looks good. what size tire did you decide on? how come you didn't go with the AC coils so you wouldn't have to trim as much?

mostly because i don't need a lift. i don't wheel or anything like that. i go back and forth to the snow a lot, and that's about as serious as it gets. some camping, but nothing serious at all. when it comes down to replacing my suspension down the road when it's getting pretty beat up, i'd probably opt for the OME suspension since it'd be cheaper than to replace with factory parts, anyways. as for right now, i don't have the funds, or the extra funds for fuel costs, or the extra funds for larger tires.

gotcha. if i were you. i'd get 10w30, if anything. IMO, i would pass on Mobil 1. not a personal fan after seeing a bunch of oil analysis done on several different products and Mobil 1 was really no better than dino oil or a synthetic blend (this is considering some harder driving, as it was done on cars that were being tracked a handful of times a year and driven pretty aggressively). if you could find some wal-mart supertech full syn oil, i'd get that. it actually works quite well, especially considering it's quite cheap. if you're trying to get top notch full syn, obviously royal purple, amsoil, etc. would be your best options. i used to run dino oil in my WD21 when i still had it and it worked great. on another note, you should also get a good filter. best filter i've used, by far, is the Purolator PureONE filters. they're pretty awesome. personally, i would suggest against the OE filters as they are made by Honeywell, IIRC, and are pretty much the same as FRAM filters, which aren't that great. i used to run OE filters all the time, but found out who made them and decided to pass and switched to the Purolator religiously.

nice! seeing all these lifted pathys keeps making me want to do a lift, but i'm going to have to resist. looks good though!

2nd. can't find 5w30? insane. that's pretty much the standard for most vehicles on the road today.

i wasn't planning on taking it off. since i was going to spray everything black, i was just going to leave it.

i was thinking of painting all of it black, myself. nissan emblem, chrome part, back part of the grille, and the rear emblems. my truck is green, then the back part of the grille is that dull silver, then the chrome emblems. rather just get them all black or something.