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you should really think about using that search function or checking out the pinned topics.

at that rate, you'll more than likely be getting appx 100k+ km or 70k+ miles out of those. IIRC, those start at appx 15 or 16/32, and half tread would be at about 6-7/32nds. pathyboy, 31" is the suggested height of the tire. 10.5" is the width.

the 31s should fit fine without rubbing. if it does rub, it'll be very slight. to comment on something said earlier, you should never, ever, ever, ever flip directional tires backwards. if it grips better backwards, that just means it's a horrible tire, in the first place. if it can't do the job it was meant to do, the way it's supposed to be on the vehicle, it's bad enough the way it is. if you flip a directional tire backwards, water gets trapped in the tires and not just hydroplanes the tire, but is very susceptible to actually lifting the tire off the ground in a very fatalistic manner. similar idea with "siping" that Les Schwab does. another HORRIBLE idea. 1. you void any and all warranties when you have those tires siped. 2. if the tire didn't initially come with enough siping or traction that forces you to sipe them, they were a crappy tire to begin with. pathyboy, i'm slightly biased (but for good reason, IMO) towards Michelin/BFG, so i would say the BFG MT KM2s, hands down. the tech in that tire is not seen in any other tire out there. other companies try to mimic it, but to no avail. the Goodyear MTRs would be my next choice, possibly, but the BFG KM2s are very difficult to beat.

BFG MTs and call it a day. probably one of the best MTs out there, and BFG was the company that started the off-road tires and made it into what it is today. you can't go wrong at all with the BFG truck tires. they will cost you a decent chunk of change though. i'd go for the 31s, but it all depends on what you're getting into.

ahh, for some reason i thought he was on some 285/70/16s. i stand corrected.

i see. SFD in your future? or no? that's quite a bit of tire considering you're running a full 1" more than 01silvapathy since he's running the stock 16" wheels. still looks good though. which brush guard is that? i like the regular bull bars or something similar to yours.

even if the anti-drain back valve was faulty, it shouldn't cause a tick though. unless the filter didn't have a bypass valve either. most filters should have a bypass valve as well to prevent oil starvation, in case the filter element gets clogged up or what not.

looks good. what size tire did you decide on? how come you didn't go with the AC coils so you wouldn't have to trim as much?

mostly because i don't need a lift. i don't wheel or anything like that. i go back and forth to the snow a lot, and that's about as serious as it gets. some camping, but nothing serious at all. when it comes down to replacing my suspension down the road when it's getting pretty beat up, i'd probably opt for the OME suspension since it'd be cheaper than to replace with factory parts, anyways. as for right now, i don't have the funds, or the extra funds for fuel costs, or the extra funds for larger tires.

gotcha. if i were you. i'd get 10w30, if anything. IMO, i would pass on Mobil 1. not a personal fan after seeing a bunch of oil analysis done on several different products and Mobil 1 was really no better than dino oil or a synthetic blend (this is considering some harder driving, as it was done on cars that were being tracked a handful of times a year and driven pretty aggressively). if you could find some wal-mart supertech full syn oil, i'd get that. it actually works quite well, especially considering it's quite cheap. if you're trying to get top notch full syn, obviously royal purple, amsoil, etc. would be your best options. i used to run dino oil in my WD21 when i still had it and it worked great. on another note, you should also get a good filter. best filter i've used, by far, is the Purolator PureONE filters. they're pretty awesome. personally, i would suggest against the OE filters as they are made by Honeywell, IIRC, and are pretty much the same as FRAM filters, which aren't that great. i used to run OE filters all the time, but found out who made them and decided to pass and switched to the Purolator religiously.

nice! seeing all these lifted pathys keeps making me want to do a lift, but i'm going to have to resist. looks good though!

2nd. can't find 5w30? insane. that's pretty much the standard for most vehicles on the road today.

i wasn't planning on taking it off. since i was going to spray everything black, i was just going to leave it.

i was thinking of painting all of it black, myself. nissan emblem, chrome part, back part of the grille, and the rear emblems. my truck is green, then the back part of the grille is that dull silver, then the chrome emblems. rather just get them all black or something.

all i've done so far was pull the old horns and install new ones, but i don't recall the hood release being connected to the back of the grille. are there screws right behind the grille that will make for a simple release. that's how it usually is, and then the logos are held in by plastic push-in clips.

haven't looked into it yet, but i plan on painting mine soon. probably going to paint it black. i doubt it's a tough procedure though. if it is, just tape it off in the back with some newspaper so you keep paint away from the rad or what not.

the stock intake tubing and box pretty much do this already. i haven't checked the bumper for it yet, but there is usually a box in the bumper/fender well that is supposed to bring in colder air, it is then routed up through plastic piping through a hole in the engine bay, and into the stock airbox. really, the only way to improve on what you're implying without running an actual CAI would be to pull the fog light and make a similar style tubing that will route air to the area of the cone filter (again, you don't want to block much of the filter off because then you decrease it's ability to suck in other ambient air since your own tubing definitely won't be sufficient enough to create enough of a draw to make the surface area of that cone filter completely useful). along with that, another option would be to have some sort of ram air set up, either with the driver's headlight, part of the hood, etc. if you can fab something up that is actually mildly efficient (in the sense that it's making near ~5+ WHP), then i applaud your efforts and ingenuity. honestly, i'd leave it as is since the benefits that you may or may not reap will be very, very minimal, and that's being optimistic, and i'm a very optimistic, glass, half-full, kind of guy.

pathlesstaken, CAE = cold air extension. the K&N FIPK is a simple WAI (warm air intake), in that the cone filter is in the engine bay sucking up warm air. a true cold air intake has a full tube that drops into the fender/bumper and sucks up the lower and denser, cold air. there are many intakes that have the ability to switch from a WAI or connect to a CAE that drops the filter into the bumper. at most, i've seen a K&N FIPK put 10 crank hp, which would essentially equate to about 5 or less WHP. with all the POPs that i've seen on the dyno, my NA Z put down about 7RWHP, i've seen TT Zs consistently put down at least 12RWHP, seen several SRs put down ~10RWHP, and the list goes on. the POPs are legit. the idea behind plastic tubing is there, however, one would also have to think about the loss of actual air through said tubing. the metal tubing is a much more solid material where less air escapes compared to the plastic tubing. the differences at our particular levels of performance are next to nothing. ultimately, the best solution would be to thermowrap a metal intake pipe, but like i said, we're not tuning our engines the way someone with a Z or what not would be. the only other thing that a plastic tube could do at our level compared to a metal tube would be to very slightly decrease overall engine bay temperatures, but again, pretty minimal. timmons, i would also agree with making your own tubing. i, honestly, wouldn't bother with a heat shield because they would essentially block a portion of the intake rendering part of the cone filter mildly useless and unable to suck as well as it could (that's what she said, ). the heat shield won't do anything in terms of bringing in any cooler air than normal. the only way to get a true cooler charge of air is to have a real CAI.

not sure of how much power the K&N FIPK makes since those are all relatively new compared to the POP chargers that have been out since the dawn of time. the difference between the two are mainly the MAF adapters. the POP charger MAF adapter is the patented venturi, that's what's drawing most of the air into the engine and increasing power. the other difference is that the K&N FIPK is a full intake (not a cold air, that i've seen some places say, unless it's not showing a CAE along with the part list), with larger diameter tubing, etc, however the problem with the K&N FIPK is that it's made of plastic, IIRC, and it's not the smoothest and best material for a free flowing intake.

the JWT venturi is essentially a MAF adapter. JWT POP charger is easily one of the best mods for pretty much all Nissan engines. always helpful to get larger and smoother piping, but the use of the POP on stock tubing is actually very good. the single POP for the Z32 TTs used to net roughly 15RWHP. this is the specific POP for the pathys. My link

awesome link! thanks!

see, that's really weird. when i click that link, it takes me to the front light load spring page. unless they've got everything jumbled up like crazy. i don't plan on lifting anytime soon, just trying to sort everything out for the future for whenever i do possibly get around to doing it. yeah, that lift looks much more normal for our trucks. a 265/70/16 would fill it rather nicely, and a 275/70/16 would fill it pretty well. still undecided about the lift right now though.

lifts the truck more. does just what the name implies, it drops the subframe. SFD for the R50s is what a body lift is to the WD21s.

yeah, i just sent an e-mail to them in an attempt to clarify things as well. i keep seeing that the 922s are the rear medium coils, 928s are front HD coils, 923s are front medium coils, and 921s are front light coils. do you have pics of your lift with stock wheels/tires? or whatever larger size you're running now? just trying to get an idea of what the OME looks like. and is it a .5" lift like ruggedrocks says they are? or is it a 1.75" lift like rockyroad says they are?

i'd like to see some pics of your truck. you say you have the 922 coils, but do you have anything in front? from what i understand, the 922s are the medium coils for the rear. kind of want to see what kind of lift you get with the OME. don't see too many people with the OME.