esy

define "issue".

in all my experience with tires in the shop and what i've ridden on in the past, General is a horrible tire/company. they might make one decent tire, but for what it's worth, i would personally stay far, far away from them. i'm in the boat of spending the cash for good tires off the top and not dealing with crappy tires down the road. the BFG KO tires are what started it all and you can't go wrong at all. at the same time, not only are you buying good tires for your off-road needs, but it's all about safety first and foremost. i don't skimp on something as important as tires since that's the only thing connecting you to the road. that's the end of my PSA.

flotation sizing is essentially standard size tires (i.e,. 31", 32", 33", etc.). they're different compared to metric sizing, in that, they essentially "float" on top of the surfaces. the reason for flotation sizing is that a tire typically has a tendency to "sink" in softer soil, sand, etc due to soil compaction. high flotation sized tires will help alleviate that problem. if you actually won't come across such situations on a regular basis, there's no need for it then. being able to air down a tire is different from flotation sizing. BFG KO tires have technology in them to allow the tires to air down and still give rigid shoulders (this tech is called ShoulderLock technology) and not ride on the sidewalls of tires, resulting in damaged sidewalls/runflats.

well, in order not to have to go super wide and lifting the vehicle with an SL and an SFD, the OP can just get a simple flotation size in the 31". he'll have to air down the tires either way which will allow for a larger footprint. i, too, am a huge fan of the BFG KO tires. the tech used while the tires are aired-down are second to none.

here you go: My link you can also find the same intake on ebay and match up the PN. ebay will be cheaper by about $60 or so.

bajas are very expensive and near pointless for on-road use. if you are going into more desert running, move onto floatation sizing, that'll help better.

sometimes the ECU needs to be reflashed to be able to relearn the modification that was done. you go from a constrictive stock airbox to an open, cone filter with a wider diameter inlet. there's more air coming in, and the MAF is unable to properly match the mixture because it's unfamiliar. you can either get an OBDII reader and see what the code is actually saying, or do the SES light flash with the screw method and see what's going on. you should also be able to reset the light with the screw method as well.

so, if OME offers different coils of different lifts, would they have the same part numbers as well? that's one thing that confused me a little going back and forth from the rockyroad and ruggedrocks sites. the rockyroad site lists the HD coils at 1.75" lift, but they have the same part number as the .5" lift for medium coils at ruggedrocks. same goes for the rockyroad medium coils of 1.75". they have the same part number for the stock load .5" lift coils at ruggedrocks. so, which is correct? anyone know? i would assume that ARB knows best, of course, or maybe even ruggedrocks. if i did lift my truck, i would need spacers because i'll be using the stock "tri-stake" wheels. again, i'm not certain if i actually will be lifting it (although the R50 does look better and more "correct" with a modest lift and slightly larger tires). at the same time, i'm assuming the Xterra suspension doesn't swap over to the pathy at all, yeah? i mean, the Xterras do look a little higher in lift, and take a slightly larger tire (i.e. the 265/70/16 or 265/65/17), and still have some decent wheel well clearance. or am i wrong and they are at the same exact height with same suspension setups, and all the Xterras have are more wheel well space for a larger tire?

a couple questions to clear some things up. if i were to get a lift (still very heavily considering it and toying with the idea), i'd want to go with a very modest lift like the OME. however, i see many people saying it's a 1.75" lift, others saying it's a 1" (which is probably the realistic amount of lift), and other sites like ruggedrocks that say it's a .5" lift. which is it? or are they all different? because rockyroad lists it at 1.75" lift, and ruggedrocks at .5" lift. i also see that the best combo to go with would be the HD fronts and medium rears. i know that wheel spacers (since i want to use stock wheels) will be the best idea for any kind of lift so as not to rub on the spring perch, but since the OME lift is modest, will clearing a larger tire like a 265/70/16 or 75 series even, have any problems with rubbing the inside of the fender? also, i see many people with the OME lifts using a strut spacer. that would be the same as an SFD or what not, yeah? are strut spacers necessary or is it simply an aesthetics thing to either level the vehicle or achieve a certain look? but, as i mentioned earlier, isn't the HD front and medium rear the best combo to achieve said "leveled" look? any help/answers appreciated. i know most has been covered, but some of the responses are somewhat contradictory, and pictures of some peoples' setups aren't showing up. just looking for a little more clarification just in case i do lift the truck. EDIT: also, does topping out happen often with the OME lift? or is that mostly with the AC lift? not totally concerned with the topping out of the suspension, just curious.

you're getting 19-20 with just a cone filter?! damn, that's pretty good! are you getting on it at all or do you drive pretty conservatively? makes me want to go get a K&N FIPK from ebay more and more now. or just a MAF adapter. who knows. probably going to get my WARN hubs once i get my 120k done. got to start getting everything together to get it done.

if your condenser takes a crap on you, it shouldn't stop your car. i've had my condenser go out on me on my '99 P11 and no biggie. had to get a new one though.

be careful with the exhaust. too free flowing of an exhaust and you'll lose quite a bit of low-end pull. what you're probably experiencing with the intake is just a better throttle response. on NA engines, intakes typically only yield about 5-7hp at the crank, which results in almost nothing at the wheels. but, the benefit to intakes are improved throttle response, better MPG, and what skulptr said about a better sound under hood.

yes, this is the VG30ET engine, not the Z32 DETT. there's more room with the ET. the Z31 ETs were pretty awesome engines. the turbo Z31s, in general, were great cars. responded very well to light modifications, and were very underrated motors/cars. much like the MKIII Supras, they respond very well to mods and can make gobs of powers. you just have to be gentle with it in a few areas and know your way around it (i.e. the MKIII Supra had very weak HGs).

i've always thought about something like this when i used to have a WD21. they use the exact same engines, and IIRC, some guys were able to successfully swap a VG30ET into their maximas. i've never really looked into it as there aren't any swap kits or what not out there for these swaps and i don't have the money/time to get into it. i've always just wanted to swap the VG30ET straight into the WD21, but without actually researching that option, i would assume the trannys are quite a bit different. this makes some more of that much easier for the 1G R50s. didn't look through the whole post, but depending on how much boost you actually want to run, getting some low CR pistons would be great, unless running a max of 7-8psi is fine with you. it would definitely be fun to drive, that's for sure.

correct. 1st O2 sensor adjusts actual emissions/trim, as you said, 2nd pretty much reads out what is coming through post cat. but, i've never seen a bad cat code is what i'm saying. seen several bad codes for O2 sensors. and as i was saying, even if you cleared the codes (which is pretty easily done), if you've got a bad O2 sensor pre or post cat, emissions in general, will still be bad. i know CA has the worst and most strict emissions testing, but i would assume the emissions gases are still being measured and would have to fall under a certain maximum allowed limit, yeah?

some of what you're saying makes mild sense. what i'm getting at is that i've never seen a bad cat throw a code, which is why it's confusing me. there aren't any sensors to detect a bad cat that i'm aware of on any vehicle. at the same time, clearing a code for a bad cat (even if it did throw a code) wouldn't help pass emissions when they actually measure the emissions. a bad cat will show increased HC, CO, and possibly even increased NOx. that's where i'm getting the confusion.

can you explain what you're exactly doing? i've never seen the ECU give a code that your cat is bad. the only thing i could imagine you're speaking of are the pre and post cat O2 sensors, but "tricking" the ECU to say that O2 sensors are still good (i.e. clearing the codes or what not) won't pass the actual emissions part since you'll be super rich in the HC and CO readings. at the same time, even if it was a bad cat, you'll probably have higher than normal readings as well and probably won't be able to pass the sniff test. but a little more explanantion may help. not exactly sure what's being done.

265/70/16 is not a 32" tire. i've seen people run a 265 and rub a little on full lock, but nothing major. i'll be running a 255, myself.

it's possible that when it fell onto the drum, it may have dented the drumor misshaped it somehow, and that could possibly be rubbing up on shoes causing the sound you're hearing. drum brakes work similarly to disc brakes. the braking material is on the inside of the drum, as are the shoes. there's a piston that pushes the shoes out onto the inside surface of the drum, which causes your braking force to be applied. so, my guess would be that you warped something somewhere. it doesn't sound or seem like anything horribly major. worst case scenario is that you'd have to replace your drum. here's a link that will help you understand drum brakes a little better. My link

goodyear never made an Advantage. the Advantage is a BFG tire, unless you're talking about the Assurance. if it was the Advantage, those are also great tires. excellent quality and build for the price that you pay. pretty awesome tire.

i'm not completely familiar with lifts nor do i have one, but i've seen over and over again that new strut mounts are a must. i've also seen more people use HD coils in the rear, not the front. unless, i'm confused and got it mixed up.

nope, makes sense. i know what you're talking about now. nice tire choice. pretty popular especially given the price. personally though, ever since i've been in the Tire Center i won't dare run any other tire except Michelin or BFG. all the classes that i've been through and all the other tires that i see come through the shop tell me to stick with those two only.

yeah, that makes sense. Cross Terrains wear faster for you because they're a street tire. that's why i said the current Latitudes are a far better tire. the best all-around tire from Michelin would be the LTX MS/X Radial LT, but if you're looking for a true all-terrain tire, it'd be the LTX AT2 from Michelin. however, you definitely can't go wrong with the tried and true BFG AT KO (still a Michelin owned tire company, so no harm there!). another side note, you got extended studs along with those spacers, yeah? i keep getting confused with some peoples' mods when they say wheel spacers and/or subframe drops. i look at the pics and know that by SFD, they mean a body lift (at least it appears to be one), but when everyone says wheel spacers, it just blows my mind when everyone is saying 1.5" wheel spacer because i'm so used to nothing greater than a 10mm and the need for extended studs. then again, i'm so used to lowering vehicles than lifting them, and dealing with the Nissan sport car genre. haha. the only other six-spoke design wheel i can think of would be the 17" wheels if you don't have the "3 stake" design that we have. now that i look at it, you probably have the 17s, since you have an '03, and the 17s were much more common with the latter years of the pathy. look like these? if you've got these, you got the 17s. not totally certain on whether or not the WARN hubs will fit if you have them, but i don't see why not since the pathy should still be using the same hubs that all other pathys do, and that should allow the WARN hubs to fit through there. but, you should see if another more experienced member knows for sure.

did you re-do the c-caps? in your sig pic, it looks like it fits much more closely to the hub as compared to the space you cutout for them in the other pics. unless, it's just the lack of a close-up on your sig pic. on a side note, ewwww to the Michelin Cross-Terrains. not a huge fan of them. the Latitudes are a far better replacement tire for the Cross Terrains, however, the new release of the LTX M/S2 (X Radial LT2, for Costco members) are even better than that considering they're now backed with 70k mileage warranties and are pretty amazing tires. i work in the Costco tire center so i come across these tires every single day. haha.

these? these are the same wheels i have, and are the 6 spokes that i'm referring to. props obviously to 01silvapathy for a nice truck.