Kingman

Running on ether rules out the CAS. Have you checked for power at the injectors? Could be as simple as a broken fusible link or wire going to the safety relay.

Yelled at it. Came out to the contents of brake fluid reservoir on my garage floor. Damnit!

Does the plug it's self spark? Does it look fouled or bone dry?

Alright, I spoke with David today. He said at the moment the best way to get a hold of his adapter is through his Experimental Engineering Facebook page. He does have them in stock. https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=524918237530164 I'm on my phone so if that link doesn't cross over on a computer, just search the name.

On each connector end of the wires. One lead on one plug, the other on the other end. If the sub harness is good, test between the engine harness and the ECU. I've found that code 13 usually comes up when there's a hard failure, meaning there's an open somewhere in the circuit.

Found the CAS might be bad. I get 3 injector/spark pulses on a full distributor rotation. I put the distributor in one tooth off, intentionally, and it started and ran on 3. Kinda sounded like a retarded Harley. Wiring between the CAS and ECU is perfect so I know there's no disconnect on signals. Weird that one tooth incorrect made it fire, but I'm going to try another sensor and see what happens. That's the most I've gotten it to do in a year!

It can be broken inside and you wouldn't know unless you do an ohm check. There needs to be basically zero resistance in the wiring from the sensor to the ECU.

Yep, make sure the sub harness for the sensor is perfect.

Installed 6 new injectors, FPR, and rebuilt the fuel rails with new hose. Also re worked the electric fan mounts.

Lol she just loves you. Is her name Christine?

Took the reverse switch out and re-soldered the wires to it. Realized what a bitch it is to get it back in with an end wrench when the plugs are back on it and of course, the lights still don't work.

Park wouldn't be the issue - movement possible is. Stuff sloshing around in the tank, wiring moving around, etc.

Pulled the front of the engine down fully expecting to find wallowed crank keyway. Um, nope.

Had it towed to the new house and washed all of the polled and mildew off of it. Much needed bath.

No One Like You - Scorpions

I found a metal 1" wide plaster scraper dealy worked well. Very thin and sharp but wide enough it won't gouge anything or bend the pan.

Works really well also as a quick fix.

Kindly ask some people for a push and get it home. Check the usual for a no crank situation. There are a lot of threads in the garage section regarding it.

Take it off and service it. However even after servicing mine, one side still needs vice grips and some force to turn. Still works fine.

Did you check the wires that go through the tank? I'd drop the tank and have a look. Even if it's not the problem it's ruled out. It might be beneficial to shut the engine off when it's acting up and read some spark plugs.

Not linear themselves, but the computer controls how long they are open for which is how the AFR is controlled. Have you checked the timing belt? If the one cam slipped a tooth that'll happen.

It does kind of suck a lot.

The flywheel stays but the diff has to go.

Villager/Quest or 3.8L Taurus fans work very well. I have the Nissan fan and sitting in traffic in 100* weather low keeps it plenty cool. Towing a trailer up hills in 90*+ isn't an issue either.

I'd be looking for a master cylinder.