Kingman

Not really. If you trace a Nissan harness you will find many of the sensors are grounded through wiring, usually common. Same with the power side. Usually 12V+.

Limp mode is a hard set limiter at 2,200. It just revs and bounces there.

That's usually the MAF sensor or wiring. Just bounces at 2K right?

The TBIs don't use a choke, all fuel injected bud.

Pop the vacuum line off and see if there's any brake fluid in it.

I had the same issue with the same injector code. The problem was the CHTS, the injectors were perfectly fine. Might be worth a look.

Ahh you're right they are Nokians. Nexen, Nokian, whatever.

They seem to be a pretty good tire. MY1PATH has had them on his for years and loves them.

If it's bigger, people are going to want it. Same reason us Z31 guys run KA24 TBs.

White/black is generally power on a Nissan. That diagram does indeed suck. I would say add add a small dropping resistor to the fuel gauge but I see you might fix full but the rest will be further off. The IGN with ACC ON sounds like it activates the gauge cluster when you flip the key one turn. I would think that's up to you if you want it to do that or not. I see no issue with running the 6 grounds to a common path. None at all. Where is the voltage regulator for the cluster? Built in?

No real benefit over the long runner intake. Your longer runners provide better low end torque and better flow overall. The one sole advantage of a Z31 intake is the almost perfect air distribution between all cylinders. Z31 guys often swap to Pathfinder manifolds. And besides, you have to cut or smash the ever living crap out of the firewall for it to fit.

I get the best fuel mileage doing the same. Light throttle and wind it up some so when you shift it's still near the power band. Bogging down = more skinny pedal = more fuel consumption.

That's a nice piece.

So what's the permanent fix? Has Nissan redesigned the parts?

Wow. I thought tearing a Triton with timing chain issues down at 107k was bad.

What's the mileage on that?

Factory switch in the console?

That depends on who makes Autozone's axles for them. If it's their real chappy stuff, that lifetime warranty will be used just about every other weekend and if you were to pay yourself for labor - that $60 axle becomes a $1,000 axle pretty quickly. Always something to think about when going cheap. Is it worth replacing the cheap part over and over, or pay more and do it once.

If you don't have a compressor or are nervous about too much air pressure, a tire works great too.

For locking it, there's a small black tab sticking out right next to the tailgate latch. Flip that before you close it and it's locked.

That's a lot of work and engineering to make that happen. Custom chain(s), tensioner(s), guides and mounting spots, sprockets and crank gear, custom front covers and seals, modified oil passages in the block, etc. So $300 would be cheap really.

Unless something is loose that's probably what it is. Which, in that case, is highly typical of a water pump failure. I've never seen a Nissan in particular throw a fan through the hood but have many other vehicles from water pump failures.

Sounds like it's time to check for injector pulse and/or fuel pressure.

Was there anything wrong or did it decide to run on its own?

Make sure the 4 10mm fan bolts are tight against the fan clutch, and the 4 10mm bolts securing the fan clutch/ pulley to the water pump are also tight. Is the entire unit wobbling including the pulley?