Kingman

F that.

Better for an engine to warm up as fast as possible so it runs leaner sooner and doesn't build up overly rich deposits. Just long enough for the oil to circulate is fine.

Although I will say this... if you don't have enough common sense to make sure its in neutral, unless you're intending to move it with the starter, don't touch that button!

Yep the EPA or whoever banned it because it was blue, and according to their retarded laws brake fluid must be clear.

Its useful for when your truck doesn't run and you need to move it around the driveway, or drive it around the block.

Dennis are you trolling?

Can't have Super Blue anymore, it got banned. Anything DOT 4 is good, it superscedes DOT 3 in both the boiling point and how much moisture it absorbs.

Member's Rides.

Perfect I asked because I've had a few cases of a leaking brake booster diaphragm causing stumbling due to a vacuum leak when the brakes applied, usually in drive.

Grab a tab with pliers and bent it, its easy. Been there and done that. Without force against both sides of the tabs, as time goes on, they will start to open up. A bolt at the parts store is a dollar or to, do it right man... all the lower tabs are are mild steel welded on to the LCA.

That bottom bolt is not the right way to do things. The shock bushing needs to be tight against the bracket so it can't move around and wallow out the bushing, rattle around, and bend the bolt. That will cause you problems. As far as "thereby raising the suspension..." no, the shocks don't determine the ride height whatsoever.

Does it start stumbling if you pump the brakes in neutral?

Yeah it wouldn't hurt to try and hope you get lucky. If you do pick up the '98, instead of scrapping the whole thing outright maybe part it out on here and once its all good n picked through, then scrap it. You never know what kind of random stuff people need.

I think you're just insanely lucky... even though 140 is low.

I'd buy the other one and swap motors, much easier that way. If not you'd have to pull the heads and replace all the bent valves, gaskets, head bolts, oil, coolant, hoses, belts, resurface the heads, etc. It would be a lot more cost effective to just drop a new one in it with 30k less miles.

TBIs are two seperate units but mounted on the same bracket on the fender well. If you looked under the hood, you would see that the plug from the wiring harness goes to the ICM, then from there another plug goes to the coil.

5 is the furthest back on the right hand side. 5 6 3 4 1 2

All of it.

That looks right.

Yeah Sumitomo is OEM. I'd replace them with NGK wires, and honestly since you're doing that you might as well replace all the plugs, cap, and rotor at the same time. And yeah, that crank pulley is known to be a big pain in the ass when it gets misaligned.

7/8" (22 or 23mm).

The best way, I think, is to find some small shrink wrap to fit inside the connector end and shrink around the wire, then a larger piece to wrap around the entire connector and shrink down against the smaller shrink wrap. That way everything is closed up down to the wire. Or, yeah, you can cut the insulation off and wrap the bare connectors.

2k is MAF issue territory as well. A good seal between the throttle body and air filter housing is imperative, any leak there and the MAF will misread and cause issues - even though its before it. Try running the engine without the air cleaner housing and you'll see. You should also check the wiring/connector to the MAF for any corrosion, and maybe clean the sensor its self.

X2 on checking the timing first thing. 12 degrees is stock, but 15 is optimal for a little extra power and fuel economy. Too far advanced and you get predetonation and stumbling at low RPMs.