Kingman

That's bizarre. I'd really like to see an ohm test... I'd be able to do it except the '88 TBI and an '87 Pathfinder are back home and I'm in Texas. I'll still say though, if the impedance is the same for both styles there should be no issue swapping entire TBIs.

That's very interesting Rob about the '87-'88 difference, especially about the injectors... with the Z31s, in '88 Nissan switched to high impedance injectors and a highly revised ECU. '84-'87s were all low impedance injectors. That makes me wonder if they didn't do the same with the Pathfinders. If that were true and he swapped an '87 TBI into the '88 without installing proper wire wound dropping resistors, he'd fry the injector drivers in no time and would need a new ECU. Unfortunately the wiring diagrams show that an '87 ECU to match the TBI can't simply be plugged in to an '88 especially an automatic. Hmmm... What year TBI is the one you're looking at listed for? If its '88-'89 I wouldn't worry, if '87 I would ohm the injectors and compare.

The only difference is the TPS sensor. The automatics have a potentiometer built in with a secondary plug for the TCU whereas the manuals only use a 3-way switch, which is mainly just an idle switch. A lot of times though, a manual will have the same TPS as an automatic withbthe secondary plug not used. If the new throttle body doesn't have the secondary plug you'll need to swap them.

X2... snow or ice is one thing as everything is slipping wiith no traction, sand or gravel not so much. Unless you're a baller with so much WHP traction isn't an issue if you don't want it to be.

I bought one of the last Stage 3 Centerforce dual friction clutches that SteeveO sold, and it is amazing to say the least. Firm pedal, easily slippable, but grabs hard if you want it to. Probably the best feeling clutch I've driven on and I expect it to be a whole lot better with the dampner delete and a heavy duty shift fork from Z speed performance. Their shift fork is solid steel so it doesn't deflect like the stock weenie cast sheet metal ones do with a stiffer clutch.

Bushings. They're easy to replace, it only takes a few hours if you use the split poly kit from 4x4parts.com.

They're not on upside down are they...?

That sucks man, better keep that stuff under wraps next time.

Supposed to be touring and sport mode, its for the factory adjustable shocks.

You can get a hold of David through his website, WWW.VG30.com You won't need a new rod, but you will need to have the crank mic'd and polished at the very least. Best thing to do is have the crank ground and factory Nissan undersized bearings installed. Nissan does not sell stock size replacement bearings, only undersized so the crank must be reground if you go that route. If all the crank needs is a polish, ACL sells stock sized bearings that work well. The FSM will have specs and a test procedure for the oil pump, you'd need to pull it apart to inspect the gears. Interesting that No. 6 spun as it's the first bearing to get oil. Usually it's No. 2 that spins, but Nissan may have changed the oil flow through the crank with the VG33?

Definitely for starting the engine without the clutch.

Sounds like you got a large taper centerlink, not a small taper.

Bubbley - The interlock switch is a clutch safety switch bypass so you can start the engine without pushing the clutch. Post a pic of that switch, very curious to see if its a stock one. Its probably aftermarket running an aftermarket locker.

They build some cool stuff but at the end of the day its just another new TV show.

Basically drive it like normal without hot rodding it.

For the next engine or rebuild I suggest chevron 5w30. Royal Purple kind of, umm, sucks. That RPM range isn't a problem at all given there's nothing wrong with the engine already. Hell we run these things at redline for ages without issue. For these engines, redline RPM is fairly well below where the cross drilled crank loses it's ability to supply adequate oil flow.

Probably be the longest lasting part on the whole thing

Then again it's not exactly a common thing to have to replace...

If your engine only has 60k, something else is amiss there...

Just the engine.

Rustoleum bed liner works awesome. It was $44/gal last time I checked about a year ago.

Needs new bearings and a crank polish at least, rods will be fine. Cause of low oil pressure could be the toasted bearings, a bad oil pump, bad oil pump pick up tube gasket, bad front gasket, or some crap clogging the pickup tube. Did you swap in the VG33? Oil pumps usually don't go bad on those.

Right on. 15* gives them a little more poop and sometimes better mileage.

7 years ago before I knew what kind of damage it did to an auto!

Please don't tell me it's an auto! People in rush hour traffic are really going to be pissed when there's a transmission scattered all over the road!