Kingman

Interesting... I know for a fact my '88 has a 21 gallon tank and so did my '87. This tank size issue must only be for replacements? Rob in the post from you earlier that you quoted to add the new shipping dimensions, you said the supersceded '94-'95 tank was a 15gal. But now, it comes in the largest and heaviest package? Doesn't make sense... especially since B just did the math on it.

You'll be fine. Enjoy the better fuel mileage.

They usually get around 11-15mpg. Gas guzzling, bullet proof, inline torque monster.

WD40 is alright but doesn't work any where near as well. PB chemically eats rust and creeps everywhere to break it down. If you can find a can, give it a try and you'll never go back. Doesn't smell as good unfortunately.

Spray them down real well with PB Blaster if you haven't already. It'll make things a whole lot easier especially since its a hard to reach area and torque won't necessarily be at a premium.

You might have cleaned a chunk of crap right into the pintle on the IACV. Did you ever reset the TPS?

Re clean the IACV and did you spray the EGR valve?

Might not be entirely closing either. Just a thought.

Have you checked the EGR valve to see if its sticking or the diaphragm is cracked? Or do all VG33s not have them?

Yes it'll affect idle, the ECU needs to know when the throttle plate is completely closed so the AAC, IACV, and injectors can do their thing properly.

Yeah itll give you problems, but really only slowly clogging fuel filters and the strainer.

Lacquer thinner and a chain.

Not me, they're on this site though. I want to say one guy's SN is shift250 but not quite sure.

Not a VG33, but a VG30. Same thing. And a VQ35.

Mine, an '84 720, had a rubber gasket. So I cut the gasket flush with the block and then RTVd. Wonder why they changed it up... Maybe because in 4/'87 they started using RTV only on almost all models?

I didn't when I changed my timing chain. I removed the front bolts that go through the pan to the front cover and slid it off, then RTVd a new gasket and slid it back on. Luckily with these you don't absolutely have to drop the pan as the oil pump pickup tube doesn't drop down like every Nissan engine from the KA to now.

Counershaft bearing(s) or input shaft. 4th gear is direct drive, 1:1, so it doesn't use them unlike 1,2,3, and 5. That's why 4th is silent. Pretty common with beaten Nissan MTs and using the wrong GL-5 fluid as it attacks the bronze parts. My 720 and '86 300zx had the same issue, and my Pathfinder is now starting to whine a bit. '87-'95 MTs will all swap with each other.

You have to put oil on the head bolts when they're being installed and even better if you run a tap down the threads to get all the debris out, which there's usually quite a bit. You want the least resistance to get tge truest torque reading. VG33 head bolts are torque to yield so its best to replace them. The torque specifications for the VG33 is also asinine! Tried and true way is to just torque them like a VG30. 22, 43, 47 ft/lbs following the pattern.

And by passenger foot well kick panel I mean the panel in the foot well, where your feet go when you're sitting, that you always kick with the top of your right foot. Behind that is the safety relay.

If you have power to the harness plug everything from that point back is a mute point as its obviously working correctly. Just be sure you have power going to the correct wires on the plug. However having power on one end of a plug and not on the other doesn't really make sense unless the wires are broken inside.

Ah, misread what you said. So at each injector there's no power, but power at the main harness plug? How does the plug look? Any corrosion? Actually now that I'm thinking Bout it the power may be white and red or blue. Damn, its been a few years. And unfortunately I'm out on the road with no computer otherwise I'd send you the wiring diagrams. I think I got them from NicoClub for an '89 D21. I do know the power wire from the ECU to the safety relay is red. Like I said, its in the passenger foot well kick panel. Pop it off and you'll see it right there and be able to see what color wires are coming from it.

I'm No where near a computer. ECU pins are labeled on the plugs, they are green wire with colored striped. The ECU is under the passenger seat. Those two solenoids are the idle controls. I doubt its an electrical issue really, probably stuck/clogged injectors.

I haven't even seen my baby in over a month. Having withdrawals...

Aaaand since I can't edit now, if no power from the safety relay to the injectors check the power coming in from the fusible links as well as the power from the ECU.

Well, follow the injector wires to the big plug where they meet the harness. The red wire is 12V+ see if it has power. If it doesnt, there's a safety relay in the passenger kick panel that if bad cuts power from the ECU to the injectors. Its orange. If you do get power, ohm the other injector wires (ground) to the ECU pins. I believe its pins 103 and 104 but I can't remember exactly its been so long. Best to check 101-106. If that's no good, find the fault in the harness. If its ok, I'd start by removing the injectors and having them tested/cleaned. To get them out you'll need to remove the TB to safely pop them out with a small socket. If you're lucky they'll slide out from pulling on the wires. Unlikely. You can bench test them by just powering them up and tapping the ground to ground. They may just be gelled up and you could soak them in solvent and if you have a jewelry cleaner even better.