Kingman

I'd give you some of my motivation but its about out! I'm really looking forward to not having to fight the wheel constantly and not get pulled over on the highway for being "drunk." I burned them out with a cutting torch and then wire brushed what was left. I made a tinfoil shield to stop the flames from getting into the engine compartment and used the skid plate to catch the rubber. My garage smelled like smokey burnouts! UCA bushing sleeves needed some trimming and so did the bushings so they would fully seat, no biggie. Now, I did run into an issue with the LCA bushings not allowing the two 14mm torsion bar bracket bolts to be in when the arm is slid on. Factory the heads are on the inside of the arm and the nuts on the backside. I was able to run one of them through towards the front and put the nut on the inside, but the other hits one of the cross member bolt heads when the arm articulates. At the moment I've got the one large 19mm bolt and one 14mm bolt. I need to cut the other bolt down and find a really slim nut to go on the inside of the arm so it'll clear. You'll notice if you haven't already that the heads of the bolts are pretty slim. Either that or run it without the third bolt, I can't imagine it going anywhere but I'd like it there and an empty bolt hole is gonna drive me nuts.

Now I'm hoping that the big bolt on the other side pops right out like this one did. I was prepared for battle but two smacks with the sledge and it was out.

Poly compression rod bushings with stock LCA bushings is bad enough, at least the arm has a little bit of play. Poly+poly...

Forgot to buy a new CV axle so I'm stuck for the night pretty much. Got thenew wheel bearings in the hub, packed, and ready to go. Swapped lower ball joint and cleaned some crap. For sheits and grins I called a local suspension/brake shop to see what everything I'm doing would cost. Fellow Pathfinder owner picked up and he's already done it to his. Shop rate would be about $800 for labor. He said he'd never do it again unless he had to.

Bushings in. The poly made getting the compression rod bolts in a bitch!

They are. Most of the time the gears don't line exactly up to the dimples on the sheetmetal. It throws a lot of people off. They're mainly there to put the cams in the general area, so as long as the marks on the belt line up on the cams and crank while the crank gear dimple is pointing at the notch in the oil pump cover, its set right. Then the tooth count to trust but verify, 40 between the cam gears and 43 from the LH cam gear to the crank gear. Not having marks on the belt isn't the end of the world either since you can make your own.

Made some progress. The torsion bar bracket was completely loose and was bending the smaller 14mm bolts. I had noticed it looked "off" when I was having my y-pipe made, but once everything was unloaded I realized how close to disaster it was. Tomorrow is the other side and get the bushings out. That aught to be great.

Badass!

I hear ya on that. While I haven't pulled a plenum on a stock MPFI Pathfinder, I have on an Xterra. A bit of a nightmare with all the crap under it on the backside and against the firewall. I did the same and replaced everything!

You never know when you're going to hit a curb in the mall parking lot!

Interesting where yours broke. Mine broke at the wheel part on the bottom or top of the regulator, don't remember exactly as its been many years. I assume yours is the more common failure point. Its where almost all regulators in different makes break.

Du werk son! Keep it up man, good stuff.

AFR on cold starts is controlled by the ECU Coolant Temp Sensor. X1000 on the cap. I started having a bit of that issue a while back, so I popped the cap off and sprayed it with WD40 then put a bead of silicone around the seat to seal it to the distributor. Hasn't done it since.

He did, said if you don't have an external one to get one. I interpreted that as bypassing the radiator.

X2. I can get NGKs for $48 a set. If you're interested I'll buy a set and ship them to you. It'll save you some dough.

Well I went to pull the fouled spark plugs to clean them and two of the wires were stuck to the plugs so they broke. I stopped there and ordered a new set of NGK plugs and wires. So I started tearing the front end apart.

Makes ya feel good being asked for help and knowing you get help back should you need it, that's what its all about. I pulled out a mid 90s Chevy 1500 on 35s that was buried in a hole in snotty mud. Took a few head starts but the little Pathfinder pulled it right on out and up the hill to the landing. They couldn't believe it! I think there's a pic somewhere of Mr. Jim pulling a semi truck.

This works well too, was doing a transfer case replacement in a Durango and needed to fill it. It was in a nasty trailer park with trash everywhere and this was laying but two feet from the back tire. Twist cap so you cam get the nozzle in the hole and let 'er flow. Saved my ass!

Lol you gotta over fill the pre-'95 manual transmissions man. So through the shifter hole or put the side of the truck with the actual fill hole up in the air.

If you have access to an air compressor, hook it up to that and put a few PSIs in it carefully. An old tire still on the rim works as well with an inflation valve on it to draw the air from the tire in to the jug.

Yeah, if it can't return excess fuel to the tank it'll flood the engine.

Did you weld some chain on the mount so it doesn't break?

I'm going to get my friends Xterra over here in a few days and try swapping consoles and see if anything will work at all. I was driving it today and had a "hmmmmm" moment.

There's two idle screws, sure you got the right one?

That would be a VG33 with spacers. They have the deepest valve reliefs.