Kingman

CHTS, its sub harness, dirty MAF/connector, maybe O2 but I've never had a bad/unplugged one mess with my TBI trucks. Check the routine tune up parts as well as the fuel filter.

Some company makes a kit to drop a 350 in a Pathfinder. Takes the fun right out of it. I remember what happens when you try and stick a VH in one too... yikes.

Are they still wobbly? Subjected it to a full day of towing loaded trailer, then installed a new non wobbly hatch latch Nunya sent me. Adjusted it as far in as possible to hold the door super tight so hopefully it quits squeaking! Thanks again Nunya.

Left side of the engine, as your looking at it, on the firewall. Two 5/8" hoses on top of each other.

Holy rust... PB Blaster, BFH, and maybe even some heat. Good luck.

Those plugs are a bitch! I wish o knew specifically what I did to get one back in to position on an Xterra, I fiddled with it for quite a while then it popped back into place.

MOP?

May be worth testing the TPS if the diesels use them. How's the transmission fluid?

My old boss has one for his, it fits fairly well. I'm not sure if that's the same supplier he used, but he sent them a color sample and they did a good job. Matching it.

Boss anything is crap. Same with Koss, Jensen, VR3, and a few other crap companies that auto parts stores and Wal Mart sells.

Take some time to search. All of the information you're after has been thoroughly covered in multiple threads.

The cracked intake tube is a very common problem on the Z31 300ZXs, most complain of it running like crap in 1st and 2nd gear where the enginemoves the mmost, but running fine out of gear. I was going to suggest checking but doesn't seem like the problem now. You said you already replaced the fuel pump so it shouldn't be that. And, yes a bad knock sensor can cause those issues or it is picking up knock as a symptom.

First one I think goes to part of the IACV. Second is a noise suppressor for the ground circuit, helps cut down on radio noise when the engine is running.

There are quite a few. Under the lower intake manifold, on the backside of the plenum, under the plenum, throttle body... Prestone Super Seal is the only one I know of that actually works. My old boss uses it in medical autoclaves for leaks that are impossible to get to. They see more pressure than any automotive cooling system can ever match.

NGKs all the way. No Autolite or Bosch garbage.

220,500ish.

No, only the European VG30s had them along with better flowing exhaust and more aggressive ECU tuning. The VG30ETs put out 240hp over there, here its only 200hp.

'93-'98 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 front coils, cut the pig tails off, get some longer shocks, and viola... 3" lift.

Holy sheit.

To be quite frank, I'm a little annoyed with the dealer you're truck is at right now. I know they have to have a decent scan tool, they can plug the thing in and moniter the live data from the ECU. All four O2 sensor readings, short and long term fuel trims on each bank, the timing advance, TPS values, MAF values, etc. Why the hell aren't they doing that? One thing I noticed you/ they haven't tested or replaced is the ECU Coolant Temperature Sensor... big overlook I think.

They don't have a smoke machine there? Any vacuum leaks would be found in seconds with one. If they noted the engine sucking in the brake cleaner at the TB or LIM to plenum gasket why haven't they replaced it or even made sure the 6 Allen head bolts holding the damn thing on are tight? Aye aye aye...

Possibly a bad ECU ground. I'd go through and check every ground you can find, taking them off, and cleaning them. I am hoping its a ground issue and the ECU thinks its bad, not the ECU actually being bad.

Is that a ramp?? Can't zoom in too far on my phone.

I thought the same thing.

That's normal, its an open diff up front so it'll spin the one with the least resistance. Basically when its up in the air whichever one it chooses, although I guess one wheel should be spinning in one direction and the other in the opposite. Block one wheel from turning and try again, the other side should start spinning. You can see the flanges a few inches away from the pumpkin where the CV axles bolt to it, check for movement at that point. If you see movement at the flanges but not through the rest of the axle, you've got a broken CV joint. If you can only get one side to turn no matter what your differential is bad.